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This is a good idea until your oil filter clogs and your engine is starved for oil. I did this same thing on a new rebuild running a K&N filter. Less than 500 miles on the filter. After a deeeep water run the OP started dropping. I shut it down, dragged it back to my buddy's house and changed the oil filter. OP went back to normal but the engine lost 10lbs of pressure at idle. Hurt the cam bearings most likely. Glad it wasn't worse.

on a new engine your going to get a lot of crap like little metal shavings these will not get filtered with a bypass adapter. you lost pressure on your new motor because at 500miles you should have already changed the filter and oil a few times. im sure the only reason they even put a bypass on the gm block is back in the day on cold start ups it would break the filters this is what ive read all over. now ive seen bearings with bypass and with out its a no brainer. why would you say not to plug the bypass.
 

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This is a good idea until your oil filter clogs and your engine is starved for oil. I did this same thing on a new rebuild running a K&N filter. Less than 500 miles on the filter. After a deeeep water run the OP started dropping. I shut it down, dragged it back to my buddy's house and changed the oil filter. OP went back to normal but the engine lost 10lbs of pressure at idle. Hurt the cam bearings most likely. Glad it wasn't worse.

on a new engine your going to get a lot of crap like little metal shavings these will not get filtered with a bypass adapter. you lost pressure on your new motor because at 500miles you should have already changed the filter and oil a few times. im sure the only reason they even put a bypass on the gm block is back in the day on cold start ups it would break the filters this is what ive read all over. now ive seen bearings with bypass and with out its a no brainer. why would you say not to plug the bypass.
Because it's there to keep you from blowing the filter off while you're going down the road.

If you blow the filter off, you will have NO oil flow/pressure, and that is BAD.

Leave the fucking bypsss alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
What about the springs? I already have my engine totally put together. So do I need take it apart, Take the springs out, Put it back together with new head gaskets, put the motor in the car with all the stuff on it, run it, Take it out, apart and reinstall the springs. Then put it back together with a 3rd or 4th set of new head gaskets. Put it in the car again, put all the stuff back on and...

My seat presure is 125 @ installed height. My double springs are used. My cam is .510 lift and my rockers are 1.6

Can I get by without taking out the inner spring?
 

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on a new engine your going to get a lot of crap like little metal shavings these will not get filtered with a bypass adapter. you lost pressure on your new motor because at 500miles you should have already changed the filter and oil a few times. im sure the only reason they even put a bypass on the gm block is back in the day on cold start ups it would break the filters this is what ive read all over. now ive seen bearings with bypass and with out its a no brainer. why would you say not to plug the bypass.

It was the third oil change, bud. I'm keeping the plug but I'm also gonna change the filter more often.
 

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do you use a long filter or short? i had oil presure problems with thick oil and short filter. put a 2 qt (i think) long filter on no more probs 80 psi when i rev. and i think oil filters now a days can with stand 550psi burst strength dought you could pop that. you would have 0psi befor anything went wrong.
 

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do you use a long filter or short? i had oil presure problems with thick oil and short filter. put a 2 qt (i think) long filter on no more probs 80 psi when i rev. and i think oil filters now a days can with stand 550psi burst strength dought you could pop that. you would have 0psi befor anything went wrong.
Ive heard a few nasty rumors that oil filters have their own internal bypass...


I could be wrong.
 

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What about the springs? I already have my engine totally put together. So do I need take it apart, Take the springs out, Put it back together with new head gaskets, put the motor in the car with all the stuff on it, run it, Take it out, apart and reinstall the springs. Then put it back together with a 3rd or 4th set of new head gaskets. Put it in the car again, put all the stuff back on and...

My seat presure is 125 @ installed height. My double springs are used. My cam is .510 lift and my rockers are 1.6

Can I get by without taking out the inner spring?
whats the open pressure on the springs? doubble springs so they have outer spring inter spring and a damper coil/spring inside? the reason they say take out the inter spring is because some have very high open #like 350-700+lbs thats more than the usual single street spring. you dont have to take your heads or motor out of the vechile to do springs unless you dont have room to get a spring compressor on. just hook up the air hose up to the cylender your on it will hold the valves up.
 

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whats the open pressure on the springs? doubble springs so they have outer spring inter spring and a damper coil/spring inside? the reason they say take out the inter spring is because some have very high open #like 350-700+lbs thats more than the usual single street spring. you dont have to take your heads or motor out of the vechile to do springs unless you dont have room to get a spring compressor on. just hook up the air hose up to the cylender your on it will hold the valves up.
dude... 350-700 lbs?

shit! where do some of these internet geniuses come from?

did you know that 120-130 lbs is max seat pressure for a flat tappet hydraulic cam?

did you know that you probably wont ever need more than 300lbs of pressure over the nose on a hydraulic cam?

where the HELL do you get 350-700+ lbs?
valve springs for .700 lift ROLLER cams on big blocks have about 700lbs of pressure over the nose, or "when the valve is open".

And no, compressed air will not hold the valve up. you have to break the valev loose to get the locks out of the retainer, and after it opens, the gravity clamp willl take hold and it will fall.

use a piece of rope in the spark plug hole, crank the piston to TDC and THEN take the retainers off. it works, and while slow, you wont be worried bout dropping a valve into the engine.
 

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do you use a long filter or short? i had oil presure problems with thick oil and short filter. put a 2 qt (i think) long filter on no more probs 80 psi when i rev. and i think oil filters now a days can with stand 550psi burst strength dought you could pop that. you would have 0psi befor anything went wrong.
I ALWAYS use standard length carquest premium filters (WIX) or pureone EXCEPT this one time. A friend gave me a K&N. I put it on and went for a swim. got stuck and idled in the water half way up the block for 5 or 10 minutes. OP was good. once it came out I stood on it a bit and noticed the OP went from 50 to 20 to 10. I killled it and we towed it back to my other buddy house. Changed the oil and filter and the pressure went up to 40. now it's on average 10lbs down. I've put some miles on it and it's stable. Kinda left me wondering if I should have left the bypass in. At least it would have oiled.. Of course the reason I plugged the bypass in the first place was I want all the oil filtered, damn it! NEVER thought about what happens when an oil filter clogs. Then again I NEVER had one clog before. Never used K&N either. It's purolator one or wix/carquest premium for me.
 

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Wix P/N 51794R

That's the tall "Wix Racing" filter which means no bypass and no anti-drainback valve and a flow rating of 28 GPM. Any parts store worth two shits should be able to get it if they don't already have it on hand.


Another note for those of you buying NAPA, Carquest, etc labeled big name parts like Wix filters, Moog chassis parts, etc. You are only actually getting the claimed part about 80% of the time according to the company reps themselves. 4 out of 5 times that Napa Gold filter will be a Wix, but 1 out of 5 it might not be, even if the box says so. I'm not knocking any parts stores so please don't take it as that. I just think that people should be aware.
 

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dude... 350-700 lbs?

shit! where do some of these internet geniuses come from?

did you know that 120-130 lbs is max seat pressure for a flat tappet hydraulic cam?

did you know that you probably wont ever need more than 300lbs of pressure over the nose on a hydraulic cam?

where the HELL do you get 350-700+ lbs?
valve springs for .700 lift ROLLER cams on big blocks have about 700lbs of pressure over the nose, or "when the valve is open".

And no, compressed air will not hold the valve up. you have to break the valev loose to get the locks out of the retainer, and after it opens, the gravity clamp willl take hold and it will fall.

use a piece of rope in the spark plug hole, crank the piston to TDC and THEN take the retainers off. it works, and while slow, you wont be worried bout dropping a valve into the engine.
my cam aint that big and i get valve float at 5000rpm if i dont have at least 350# at full lift.
come on man im talking about open pressure. im not retarded im just explaining why you would take the springs apart. the trick to doing valves isnt hard . take the rockers of ,hook the compressor with adapter up to the spark plug hole . i use like 30psi . then with a socket and hammer give the top of the retainer /not valve tip/ a coupple taps to break the locks loose youl know when there loose. you wont here air leak buy the valve. then use what ever spring removel tool you want. ive done this quiet a few times .
 

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I've used air... it works but always set the piston at TDC (and don't let the pressure move the piston to BDC)

--experience-- I hear ya man. I'll see about that P/N. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
It turned out great with the Kohler Magnum SAE 30 and the GM EOS. The car runs like a beat stray dog. I need to loose the 4.56 gears for some good highway rpms tho. I would also like a manual trans for more control but it runs now so I'll enjoy it for the rest of the season.
 
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