[TuffRR]

Has anyone had any experience with this kit or anything similar? I think the basics of this system is a relocating cone (or something similar) and spring retainers coupled with cranked arms. Simple enough.
I am wanting to improve the wheel travel of my 89 RR and am currently running OME springs and shocks. What do people suggest is a good way to easily improve on this setup. The rig is used for trails and not rock crawling.
Cheers.

 

[SeaRover]

what's to improve? personally i wouldn't spend a dime until you feel that additional articulation would help . what looks sexy on the camera doesn't necesarily work better on the rocks.

beef up that rear axle assembly and flog the beast.

my .02 -

 

[road1will]

nothing special about it at all, just cones and shock mounts, both of which are readily available stateside. however, i would not reccomend cones as they can take away from stability quite greatly.

get yourself a good set of shocks and mounts, make some HD spring retainers, and a rear locker. you should be all set for a while.

 

[TuffRR]

My setup currently includes maxidrive rear, mcnamara front and running 33's (36's on the way). Obviously i'll have to increase the spring lift to go to 36's (i've already got a body lift and cut the guards). If I'm replacing the springs i want to do it all as a package at once (ie no good having longer springs but standard shocks). There seems to be a lot of debate on the whole retainers/cones issue. 9V, you recommended retainers, however i've also been advised to stay away from them because its a quick way to stuff up the springs. What then is the best compromise between travel and stability?

 

[Michael Rangie]

dont waste your money.

Give Warren a call at jacob springs Melbourne, he will make a coil to what ever lth rating you want, then go to Bilstien in Bayswater they wil make a shock to suit the spring lth.
RR use the shock to keep the spring in place, if you dont like over stressing the shock fit limit straps or retain top and bottom of spring.
Then you just modify the shock mounts.
Front undo tower make 50mm spacer or as required refit with new longer shocker.
Rear remove the top mount fab new one to suit shock all is done.

Regards
Michael.

 

[merv]

I'm probably 1/2 between the stock guys, and the super-modified-walk-on-water types in terms of shock mods. As a smple irish guy, I'll try and list some of the issues:

Rear:
Longer springs and longer shocks go a long way, however to get the maximum uptravel and down travel, the upper shock mount needs to move up (and or forwards, or even inwards if you follow KC) in order to get enough movement for true increased travel. So as well as longer springs and shocks, you need to look at different shock mounts. Easy to make, or easy to get from loads of folks selling them.

Front:
As the shock runs inside the spring, there is only so much travel you can introduce before it minds. therefore lotsa guys move them outside the spring and therefore need new mounting points as well.

What does it do for you?
Brilliant, and most important question. If you have a locker (or 2) then you usually do not have to stop due to being cross axled. Therefore you only need it for stability (I prefer 4 wheels making contact more than just 2 or 3).

If you dont use a locker, it's like night and day in where you can go.

Merv.

 

[redrangie]

Very well put Merv.

I tried the retained way for week or two, but I use Really stiff rear springs for load capacity with spacers. I think I have settled on limiting droop with straps and fixing on a small guide to aid the cone in getting back in.

I am going on a trip in a few weeks and will let everyone know how it performs.

j

 

[chrisvonc]

I was told by a rep, a price tag of around $3700 USD for the Extreme kit.

Right off the bat you can get the Safari Gard Stage III kit, plus the 4 ext. brakelines, and the 2 rear trailing arms for @ $2200 (according to the listed prices on the web site) which gives you everything thats in the Extreme kit leaving you @$1500 to spend on other goodies you are going to need.

Chris

 

[Serious One]

Very well put Merv.

I tried the retained way for week or two, but I use Really stiff rear springs for load capacity with spacers. I think I have settled on limiting droop with straps and fixing on a small guide to aid the cone in getting back in. j

That is *exactly* the same setup I have in the rear of the Serious One. Works pretty good actually, but I still plan on fully retaining the rear (either that or go to the air springs w/retainers).

For my money go buy a $50 drill and a half-inch drill bit and do up your radius arms.

For the small investment in time/money you'll reap a heap of rewards. Front travel IMO, has more potential to help you if you improve it, than improving rear travel. You already have enough rear travel.

FWIW, I don't know squat about the Scorpion setup, but I do know that for a very very reasonable amount of money you an do amazing things with the STOCK parts. For just a tiny bit more you can do a LOT more in terms of performance. For example, I am running completely stock front suspension on the S1, and the two things I have going in the rear are custom longer trailing arms and a relocated bushing bracket. I also have an A-arm extender to correct pinion angle. Stock bushings, front and back, and the arms aren't that hard to either fab up or get made. There are commercially available A-arm extenders and longer trailing arms (bent ones too, mine are straight). I don't know if anyone is doing a relocated upper trailing arm bracket.

With a wheelbase of somewhere between 80-81 inches I can ramp 1000 points. Not to brag or anything, but it shows what a little 'massaging' of the stock parts can really do for you.

If you want to go totally gonzo custom then go for things like SG, Scorpion, etc...(bootiefab!!!).

Go for it and report back. It's about time someone on this list did something innovative and unique! (bolt-on ****!!!)

:flipoff2:

 

[redrangie]

Go for it and report back. It's about time someone on this list did something innovative and unique! (bolt-on ****!!!)

:flipoff2:

You sir, may kiss my hairy white arse.

:flipoff2:

 

[DieLucas!]

You sir, may kiss my hairy white arse.

:flipoff2:

No kidding, Mike! You sold me the shite I'm bolting onto my rig...:flipoff2:

 

[Serious One]

See!!!! The truth hurts eh guys!!!! :flipoff2:

If you guys didn't feel so guilty you wouldn't have responded!!!:flipoff2: J/K

If anyone's guilty of being a bolt-on-bob, it's me too man. In other words, everything I've ever done to my truck was bolt-on (or ziptied, or clamped, etc...), I still can't weld but have a brand new Millermatic in the gay-rage.

So, at least I'm in good company.

Oh yeah, and RedRangie, I'll kiss your white hairy arse anytime! Hehe.

 

[DieLucas!]

Oh yeah, and RedRangie, I'll kiss your white hairy arse anytime!

C'mon guys...this is what PMs are for...:flipoff2:

 

[PTSchram]

Seems Like I'm gonna have to ask Ike some questions about the Vegas crew before July...

Mike, did you ever get that VW seat? I finally have a way to find a contact person for you (maybe).

Peace,
Paul

 

[redrangie]

Oh yeah, and RedRangie, I'll kiss your white hairy arse anytime! Hehe.

Gee,

Now I'm blushing.


j