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Discussion Starter #1
I'm still working on my '76 Traveler D44 rear axle...

Does anyone know where the pinion depth shims are? I seem to recall reading somewhere that they're located behind the pinion bearing race in the housing, but Drivetrain.com and Randy's Ring and Pinion seem pretty convinced that they're pressed in behind the pinion bearing on the pinion. I'm looking at the pinion and don't see any shims behind the bearing...so what gives?

Thanks,
Brian
 

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They are right.

Also remember that some set ups might not have needed any shims...or they are at a "0" number. Have you seperated your parts yet? There just might be a shim or two in there...sometimes they are hiding :flipoff2:
 

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All of the 44's, 30's and 60's I have set up have the pinion depth shims behind the race. Slingers (particularly HP diffs) will be behind the bearing.

Preload shims will be behind the bearing (next to the yoke).
 

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abyssdncr said:
I'm still working on my '76 Traveler D44 rear axle...

Does anyone know where the pinion depth shims are? I seem to recall reading somewhere that they're located behind the pinion bearing race in the housing, but Drivetrain.com and Randy's Ring and Pinion seem pretty convinced that they're pressed in behind the pinion bearing on the pinion. I'm looking at the pinion and don't see any shims behind the bearing...so what gives?

Thanks,
Brian
From the T'all Service I have sitting at my desk

Yoke-Bearing-Bearing Preload Shim Pack-HOUSING-Pinion Locating shim pack-bearing-pinion gear.

From my memory of setting up the crawlers spool, the pinion locating shim pack controls the depth of the pinion and should go INSIDE the housing. The shims outside the housing are for controlling the preload on the yoke bearing.

Don't you have a service manual or the instructions that came with the gears?
Yukon Gear installation instructions
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm building this axle up for a swap for my AMC 20, (hope that doesn't offend anyone... ;) ) so I haven't bought the Traveler manual. On top of that I'm using take-out gears from a '97 TJ, so no install manual w/ the gears. I set up a bud's D35 on his '98 Grand Cherokee last week and could see the shim behing the pinion bearing, no prob. The problem with my pinion is that I can't convince the bearing to budge with my bearing splitter. However, the old pinion and new pinion are both marked "+1", so if the shims are behind the race, I should be good to go. Now I'm second guessing the shim locations. I figured it would be best to get feedback from those working specifically with the scout D44's, but even the responses here seem somewhat contradictory...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Harvester of Sorrow said:
They are right.

Also remember that some set ups might not have needed any shims...or they are at a "0" number. Have you seperated your parts yet? There just might be a shim or two in there...sometimes they are hiding :flipoff2:
I understand you point here, but the starting point or base measurement for a D44 pinion depth is 0.060". So 0.060 would be the "0" measurement and +3 0.063" and "-3" 0.057". No shims doesn't make any sense... :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
elarsen said:
All of the 44's, 30's and 60's I have set up have the pinion depth shims behind the race. Slingers (particularly HP diffs) will be behind the bearing.

Preload shims will be behind the bearing (next to the yoke).
This is the way I'm hoping it is. That way I can just install the new bearing on the pinion and plug away since both pinions are marked "+1". Sound reasonable?

Thanks,
Brian
 

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If both pinions are marked the same, then by all means proceed with the same shim thickness. Some will split the shims . Shims behind the race add some under the bearing. Doing so will allow for fine adjustment. You probably will never need to do this , but its an option.

My rear D44 had squished a pinion shim out from under the bearing, so I like to run all shims under the race. Its also easier to adjust by knocking the race out.
 

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The scout 44's I have worked with are the same as the chevy 44's, dodge 44's, jeep 44's, and ford HP 44's, with the exception of the slinger behind the pinion bearing(pressed on the pinion) on the HP 44's

I have never seen a 44 that adjusted pinion depth by adding/ subtracting shims behind the bearing pressed on the pinion. In theory you could do it, but it is a PITA to remove that bearing.

I think some folks on this thread are confused with preload shims(under the bearing near the yoke) and pinion depth shims(behind the race in the housing)

If your pinions have the same depth measurements, you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the input! I finally went and dug out a flashlight and pulled the pinion seal. I can see a few shims behind the race! :D Dunno why I didn't think of that before...

Thanks fellas!
:cool2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, if anyone was really interested in the first place... I got my gears all installed last night. I managed to pull the carrier bearings to make a set of setup bearings out of them. The pinion dropped right in and snugged up to 37 in-lbs, which is a little tight but within the 20-40 in-lb spec listed on drivetrain.com. Carrier took about half an hour to setup thanks to the setup bearings. Final install left me with 0.00475" backlash. And the gear pattern looks absolutely perfect. :D Woo-hoo!!!

Now I just need to get the outer axle seals replaced and I should be good to go.

Thanks for all the input!
:cool2:
 
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