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Discussion Starter #23
Ok, outside it is! I was kind of starting to lean toward outside mounting anyway. I want to lean on the side of mall crawler rather than off-road only buggy when in doubt.

Got some stuff done tonight. Started mocking up powertrain a little more representative of the end project and it looks like things are gonna be tight, but not too bad! The t-case will be as far back as possible without interfering with the upper rear left link mount and everything will line right up, but just barely!

If I hadn't have gone so short with my doubler it wouldn't have worked out so well.

I have decided to rotate the 205 up as much as possible, and then move it up into a future hump under the passenger seat. The input centerline will be close to being in line with the top of the frame. Very tall but I think it will be necessary as the ZF also hangs pretty low.

I also got busy with a flap wheel and blinged out the rear axle, should look decent with a coat of PPG ATK black. Looks like the rear truss will be here thursday so I'm hoping to have the rear axle assembled, painted, and in by the end of this weekend.
 

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I have decided to rotate the 205 up as much as possible, and then move it up into a future hump under the passenger seat.
On mine I cut a big portion out of the bottom of the passenger seat to make things nice and tight. My rig is a bit different than yours though.:smokin:
 

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My Atlas was very tight also, had to chamfer (1" Horizontal and 1.5"vertical) the inside top corner of the frame rail to roll it up flat and above the bottom of the frame. I then added .25" fish plate on the outside of the frame and bottome as a stiffiner. Then a hole had to be cut in the floor, and part of the seat bracket had to be sacrificed. I am now in the process of covering the hole and figuring out mount for front of seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Mock up day today. Gettin tight. I have no clue where exhaust is going to go.



Drivetrain centerline is about 10 degrees from level. I am definatley going to do what it takes to have a flat belly except for a slight hump for the 205. I'm going to put the 205 just high enough that I won't have to modify my passenger floor for a driveshaft to clear, although I will have to make a relief for the rest of the case, however it will be hidden under the seat.
 

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I'm pretty confident in the ability of the link mounts to take some abuse, the t-case, ehhh, not so much. Perhaps a skid plate that protects the 'case will be the way to go. Then just clock it factory. Any opinions about the spring bushing idea?
Those link brackets will definitely hold up, but you're taking a step backwards by not keeping the bottom of your frame smooth. Any thing that hangs down from the frame like that will catch on rocks causing the entire vehicle to pivot. I've seen it way too many times on buggies.

I think the spring bushing in the frame would be too rigid like you said. What are you using for a xfercase adapter? Is there no way to modify the adapter so you can bolt a crossmember to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, the 1356-205 adapter is custom. It is a 1/2" piece of steel, more than adiquit to mount to, but if I only mount to the center, all the torque from both driveshafts will be transfered all the way up to the motor mounts, through all the parts.

My new idea is to use poly stock replacement motor mounts, 2 poly trans mounts, one in the stock location, one beetween 1256 and 205.

But a softer, rubber spring mount that would lay on top of the frame rail and mount to the t-case mounting point.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
I am planning on saddling the truss to the back of the axle tube and then gusseting it with some 1/2" CR I've got along the front.
The engineer in me doesn't like the normal butt and weld in the center of the tube due to the low contact/weld area.


I obviously haven't touched the left side yet.

I think I am going to saddle a little more to get the top of the truss low, but comforterably clearanced, to the upper crossmember. I will match the rear of the upper crossmember to the front for more clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
ok, forgot to take the card to shop tonight, here's what happened this weekend though. Due to EAA Airventure, I didn't spend too much time on scoutzall. I did manage to get the truss sadled and welded on and started gusseting. I used a coffee can (same 4" od as D70HD) to trace what needed to be removed. After cutting it away with a sawzall I cleaned it up with the grinder. After I had a good fitting notch, I copied it with a piece of heavy card stock, unwrapped it, wrapped it the other direction around the other end of the truss, then spray painted the end. I simply ground away untill all the paint was gone and it match perfectly. Due to the complexity of this joint, a chop saw doesn't do what you need it too and is borderline deadly to use.





Also finished up modifieying the rear crossmember. Clears the truss perfectly at full stuff. It is basically a shadow of the front part of the member. Then I centered a piece of 1/8"X 1.25" as a cap strip and welded. I also picked up some 3X4 .125 to make a new one right behind the trusses max upward travel, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to leave the old one if it was out of the way.

 

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Build looks good but you should expect to get quite a bit of rear steer with that link configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Experience.
K, thats cool. Sort of looking for something constructive though.

I don't see why rear steer should be an issue. The lower axle mounts are 3" wider per side than the corrisponding frame mount. The lower links are also going to be about as level as you can get.
 

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Rear steer is generally not too big of a issue depending on the type of wheeling you do. Only time it would be a big issue is steep climbs when the front tires get real light. If the weight isn't equal on the rear tires and one side starts to fold under it will go downhill fast from there, literally.:laughing:
But yeah for most wheeling rear steer isn't a big deal..
 
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