Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought a bead blast cabinet off of EBAY and it bolted together pretty nice. My question is what would you use to seal all the joints? Should I use seam sealer, caulk...? I plan on using my large shop vac(can't afford a dedicated vac system) to keep the cabinet dust free and connect a hose to vent the vac outside the garage but know from past jobs these things need to be sealed very well.

What is everyone using for the plastic tear offs for the window?

The glass window came cracked, anyone use just plexiglass with a tear off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
I would probably take it apart and caulk all of the mating edges before reassembly. If you just run a bead of anything on the inside of the seems, it is going to get torn up in short order. As for the window. I think you may end up being unhappy with plexiglass. It will haze up very quickly from abrasive. If you can find some clear protective film that you can peel and restick, it may be fine. Check Mcmaster Carr, I am sure they have soemthing for you...

Later,
Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,326 Posts
What size cabinet did you get? When I rebuild my Econ-O-Line cabinet (http://www.sandblasting.com/):


I found a distributor that had the correct sized foam that acts to seal the top to the bottom, and the side door.

For glass, I went to my local glass store and had them order a piece of tempered glass for the window. Econ-O-Line used regular plexiglass, so you could get a piece of that too. I also had them order another tempered glass for the light. You'll want to protect the glass (or plexiglass) from the abrasive. I picked up a couple rolls of the plastic film from Grainger (www.grainger.com). I then took them to my local Fedex Kinko's and used their paper cutters to pre-cut replacements. You'll go through them quickly depending on the type abrasive you use and the amount of blasting you do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
For glass, I went to my local glass store and had them order a piece of tempered glass for the window.
Are you sure that was wise? I would think that regular plate glass may be a better selection. Tempered glass is under incredibly high amounts of internal stress due to the tempering process, any stress or twisting of it can cause it to explode. If I am not mistaken, tempered glass is not any "stronger" or "tougher" than ordinary plate glass, it is considered safer only because when it breaks, it shatters into millions of tiny pieces instead of the larger shards you may get with plate glass. I guess it makes it a little less likely you will slice your leg off if you go through a sliding glass door, but the tiny pieces from tempered glass come off at an extremely high velocity (ask me how I know...). Anyhow, just not something I would want my face near.

Later,
Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,326 Posts
Here's a good description: http://www.alumaxbath.com/tech/tgp.htm

The downside to any glass is that it can break. There is no positive pressure inside the cabinet, as it is vented for the vacuum system to work. So the likelihood of the glass 'exploding into your face' is pretty small.

However, I've had zero problems with well over two years of blasting using the tempered glass in the window/light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
I used urethane sealer, which is used to glue in windshields. I even used it to glue the viewing glass in. I have an air tight cabinet. If I turn on the vacuum and plug the fresh air inlet, I will pull a vacuum on the cabinet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,744 Posts
to sheild the glass in our beadblast cabinet I built a frame of 1" angle and mounted a fine screen that's pretty heavy duty (found it at the dump!). It keeps all the big crap from getting through to the glass and you can look right through it. I was using steel shot for a while and it worked well with that stuff. Some got through but by the time it got through the screen it was slowed significantly so it didn't pit the glass any.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,803 Posts
lexan sheet for the window itself, and like the guy mentioned: Grainger
for the plastic/protective clear plastic over that.

--I like the idea of kinko's cutter to make your own templates.....nice..

--Sherpa
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
I use tempered glass on the 10 blast cabinets we have at my work. I bought the glass from Roadrunner(a local bay area company)glass and clear mylar film from Professional Plastics to go over the glass. These cabinets are running 24-7 so they do go thru quite a bit of supplies. The mylar really cuts down the glass costs. When it gets messed up simply take it off and put on a new piece with some poly tape. as far as the glass blowing up at you... I have 40 guys using these cabinets and there has never been a cut injury from broken glass(of course my guys are all required to wear safety glasses).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
All I know, is I had a 4"x6' piece of tempered glass explode in my hands, nothing hit it, nothing stressed it. I found out later how it is made, and why it does what it does. From what I have read, even the slightest defect in the "skin" of the glass, and even deflecting just under it's own weight can cause it to pretty much be a ticking time bomb. I had little cubes of glass all over me, fortunately I was wearing safety glasses, but the shit went about 6 foot in every direction. The cubes are still very sharp, however they are not large enough to impale you or anything...

Later,
Jason
 

·
Window Licker
Joined
·
14,756 Posts
All I know, is I had a 4"x6' piece of tempered glass explode in my hands, nothing hit it, nothing stressed it. I found out later how it is made, and why it does what it does. From what I have read, even the slightest defect in the "skin" of the glass, and even deflecting just under it's own weight can cause it to pretty much be a ticking time bomb. I had little cubes of glass all over me, fortunately I was wearing safety glasses, but the shit went about 6 foot in every direction. The cubes are still very sharp, however they are not large enough to impale you or anything...

Later,
Jason
Guess we should all wear safety glasses crash helmets when we drive our cars since that's what all the glass (except the windshield) is made out of. Many storefront windows and doors too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,486 Posts
As far as the shop vac goes, I didn't have very good luck with it. Clogging too often and noisy as hell. I bought a blower motor setup that bolts right to the side of the cabinet that is low profile, quiet and wired up to come on with the light. It's vented outside and works excellent. Picked it up through Surplus Center for pretty cheap. The motor itself is sealed completely off from the fan so no chance of it burning up. I'll snap a pic tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Pics would be great..Do you have a filter before it vents outside?

As far as the shop vac goes, I didn't have very good luck with it. Clogging too often and noisy as hell. I bought a blower motor setup that bolts right to the side of the cabinet that is low profile, quiet and wired up to come on with the light. It's vented outside and works excellent. Picked it up through Surplus Center for pretty cheap. The motor itself is sealed completely off from the fan so no chance of it burning up. I'll snap a pic tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,486 Posts
Pics would be great..Do you have a filter before it vents outside?
Nah, it's such a fine dust that a mouse fart blows it away. Went to take some pics and the batts were dead in the camera so I'll get them tomorrow. One thing I'm going to change on it is add a reclamation setup. Pretty basic really, there's a piece of 4" flex tube going from the fan to the outside vent. I noticed that the larger particles get built up in the flex tube as it hangs down a bit. Not much, but when using glass bead I'd rather not waste any. A simple T dropping into a bucket should work out great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,486 Posts
Here's some pics finally. PN# 16-1336 from Surplus Center, $30. Had to put a couple spacers on it and enlarge the hole a little bit but nothing fancy. I still need to put a "T" at the bottom with a reclamation bucket. Real hi-tech.
 

Attachments

1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top