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Tom,

Let me look and see if I have a good set of the welded rockers. I'll let ya know this weekend if I do or not.
Thanks, but I have good examples of both - or good enough examples.

The welded rockers rub on the valve springs - or the springs rub on the rockers.

So I'm going to use some "boat" rockers which are a little more svelte than the welded rockers (no "bushing" to weld to) and clear just fine.

I just haven't found an hour or two to finish buttoning this up - last week was "club meeting week" and this week I'm in wonderful Wyoming. :D

Maybe this weekend - though my youngest has a birthday coming up. :)

April will be 1 year since I wheeled this Scout. Time flies. :D
 

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Finally got a little help in the shop.



And after the girls helped me install the valve covers and the bellhousing bolts I made the Scout a low-rider and swung the engine and transmission inside.




It took some doing to get the PTO cover to seal back up after I pulled it to clean some gunk out (and look for the missing roll-pin for the shifter - never did find it) but got it done eventually.

Then hung the Dana 20, the crossmember, the driveshafts, lots of oil everywhere...




With the new motor, I upgraded from the 350 TBI to a 454 unit.

Mark made me this TBI intake years (and years!) ago - unfortunately, Bill convinced me to check and you can't just drop the BBC TBI on it - the IAC winds up "floating" over just the gasket, and may develop a vacuum leak.

Fortunately, I had these TBI adapter plates I bought from BCB at the JustIH show a few years back for just such a purpose (and, it turns out, I would have needed to buy a new aircleaner spacer to clear the thermostat housing anyways)



Right Stuff isn't meant for fuel, but it shouldn't see any - and I don't plan on removing this adapter plate..




Here's an annoying thing - BBC IAC is different from the small-block version. You can't swap them, and the wiring is different, but for $15 or so you can buy an adapter harness.


I had no such luck going from the late model "small" 3-pin TPS to the older 3-pin TPS (and here again, the old style has a "flat" bolt pattern, while the new style has an "L" bolt pattern) - aside from splicing A and C backwards the first time, my splice worked out - and my harness now has both TPS connectors.

 

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So, with the radiator re-installed, fluid filled, etc it was time to put the tires back on to level the Scout out to fill the Dana 20.

I ran a hose for the breather up to the engine bay - and then used it to fill the 'case first.



So tonight I got home from work, grabbed a battery and set it on the heater box, rigged up some wires, and sorted out a few last minute things.

Then primed the oiling system, pulled the distributor out of the dead 345, dropped it in, and after a few moments..

Fired it up

Ran it for the 20 minute cam break-in, got to about 190deg, and shut it down.

One valve cover leaked a little - it has been tightened.

Otherwise, some oil slung from me spilling as I added some (poured down the distributor hole) to get to 6 qts (had 4 in it).

Factory temp gauge still doesn't work - I used a different sender this time, but no dice. Hrrmm.

Oil pressure gauge read fine.

TBI worked fine.. so far so good.

I couldn't take it for a spin - given the battery perched on the heater core.

My BLMs of 108 say I'm a bit rich using the 454 TBI and the tune from the old 345. I'll dial out some fuel next time - of course, it'll be rich until the rings seat, so no need to get too carried away.

So, while the exhaust cleared out of the shop, I removed the battery, cleaned up a bit, and shoved the Scout forward so I could work on mounting the battery again.. after a little surgery.






I cut the body back to the rear edge of the "box" stiffener.

Tomorrow I'll get a 12x12 sheet of 18g or so, I'm going to put it into the brake and make it 12" by 8x4 or 9x3 with a 3" "L" down one side.

It'll then fit about where the piece of steel is now - the "L" gets trimmed to match the curve of the wheel well, and then the bottom that hangs down will get bent a little again to curve back and away.

That is intended to solve this problem:



I replaced the 2g main power lead that ran from the rear mounted batteries up to the front with a 4/0 cable, so if the battery box was moving now was the time to do it before I cut the end of the cable and crimp the lug on.

So when I'm done, the battery box will be to the rear corner against the cage, rather than forward against the wheel well like before.

And I'll have 2" or so more clearance at the rear for tires, should I feel the the 38s become too small..

Still need to set the timing on the TBI - the disconnect and set to 0 bit - but if I can get the wheel well finished and the battery mounted, maybe I can start driving it to work to work in the new 'mill.
 

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Tom,
Glad to see the SnowScout getting some love! :grinpimp:
 

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Tom,
Glad to see the SnowScout getting some love! :grinpimp:
Me too!

I've been wrenching on the engine for the past year - though I started THIS engine a few years before that, I didn't get serious about it until the SnowScout went down in April.

$1.25 at Pacific netted me a 12x12 hunk of something close to 16gauge steel.

Into the press-brake.





Mock fitment


Then, because my inner-quarter cut wasn't just right, I opted to put another bend in to make a Z, so it wraps around the inner quarter - I was then able to weld the inside and outside with a nice little overlap of factory metal.

The outer welds came out better than the inside - I think thanks to the Herculiner that I ground off, but didn't wash.





I welded both from the inside and outside - you can see some flame marks from the burnt Herculiner.



I also laid some ugly welds on the back/under side but I wanted to attach to what was left of the factory box structure - you can see the "box" on the left still.



Inside view
 

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Paint..

And with the tire back on


(and the before picture)


I changed my mind on the battery mounting location and put it back against the fender again, leaving a nice little cubby hole at the rear corner of the bed for stashing stuff.



I mounted the new battery box, and ran the 4/0 wire into place, slide some 7/8 heater hose over it at various spots for protection, and crimped on the end with my hydraulic crimper.

So it's runnable again with the battery mounted up and wired. Woot!

Then I decided I should do a little something with the Hi-Lift mount - it usually sits on the wheel well, with the baseplate against the tailgate (end-cap), and just to the right of the photo you can see a piece of plate welded to the down-tube - it has a nut welded to the back, and a 1/2" bolt goes through the Jack.

That works fine, but you need a 3/4" ratchet to get the jack out.

So I welded a nut to the cage a little farther up.

I'm going to install a stud in both nuts, but then use the "forward" stud with a big wing-nut.

The original location was too close to the jack base to use a wing-nut, but I can use it to help locate the jack still.

Dropping the jack down to weld the nut in place gave me an opportunity to show how I mounted the axle.

Like the Hi-Lift, it sits on the wheel well, the head end of the handle sits between two U-bolts, with a bolt to secure it in place.

Remove the Hi-Lift, pull the pin, and rotate the axe head out and get to work.

But most of the time, it's in a safe spot.

Both it and the Hi-Lift sit outside of the B-hoop (sits between the B-hoop and body at the front), so the front end can't flop about and hit anyone, and then even if it goes UP, it remains outboard of the C-hoop the entire time too - and it's still secure at the rear edge, with the U-bolt/pin arrangement for the axe, and then the axle is ALSO smashed in place by the Hi-Lift secured on the 1/2" bolt.


I don't know that I'll do the driver's side wheel well just yet - I did the passenger side because the battery cable was replaced, which meant the battery was out - and it's a PITA.

For now.. I want to get out and break in this engine, so I started picking up the tools, metal discards, and so forth.



Still a tunnel cover to install and some more misc. cleanup before I get to go joy riding, but soon, darn it!
 

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Just read the whole thing from the beginning, cool project you got there. Reminds me of the commando I'm working on.
 

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Just read the whole thing from the beginning, cool project you got there. Reminds me of the commando I'm working on.
:D Thanks. I've seen a lot of nice rigs come out of Canada - both wheelers and racers. :D

Used to see a lot of guys from Lethbridge with some cool rigs..
 

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Maybe I didn't need that 4/0 battery cable.

I've been fighting a sporadic spark - well, sporadic signal from the hall effect.

Maybe had something to do with a .050" air-gap on my Duraspark conversion distributor.


Same thing, but with the desired air-gap feeler.


Theory I have is with the remote battery, it doesn't crank as fast, and the slower turning rotor results in a lower AC voltage (should be 0.3 to 2-ish VAC) and the ECM doesn't "see" the engine turning.

So I built another distributor.



Using the Mopar pickup that is more work - you have to mount it - but allows more adjustment (since you have to mount it)


That seems to have improved the signal.

I'm still too rich and have trouble getting it to run - it was flooding - I could get it to spit and cough and stumble and sometimes it would come up, sometimes it would fall down.

But when I first started it, I was able to go for a short trip down the road and back.

The driver's header was loose and leaking - tightened.
The clutch needed adjusted - adjusted.

Most annoying is an intake manifold leak. I've never had one before, but this one leaks - I pulled it up a few inches with the hoist and replaced the gaskets again and buttoned it back up, but still have coolant trickling down the top/outside lip of the valley pan and then running down onto the bell-housing.

Argh.

Have I just been lucky all these years with no intake sealing problems on stock motors, or motors with a ton of decking, and everything in between?

I guess it's time to really strip the intake of everything and then pop it off and have a closer look this time - see if there's something obvious on the gasket surfaces, check it with a straight edge.. or just prep a spreadbore intake from the pile and try that. ;)

But I did at least get it outside and around the block - and mucked out the mess in the shop.

 

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...and last time on our show..

I eventually got the intake to seal up. It was still several more attempts before I nailed it.

I'm now running a powdercoated spread-bore intake, with the GM TBI to Spreadbore adapter, and the BBC TBI.

It's a tall combo. With the 1" body lift, I'm still glad the hood was cut.




I have never gooped my intake gaskets.

I tried the Permatex Copper on this.

Nope. Not on the first intake, not on the second, not on the second or fourth or sixth time did it seal.

Finally, I cleaned everything up, put RIGHT STUFF on the intake gasket, and set everything in place and snugged it.

I then came out the next night to torque it.

No leak.

Instead, the thermostatic clutch I had bought at a garage sale turned out to be too long and ate the radiator on my next test drive.

So I pulled and had the radiator repaired - again.

This time, I used the correct new Scout II clutch fan.

Then I finally drove it to town and back.

With an obnoxious tack-tack-tack from the engine bay.

To try and make a way-too-long and frustrating story shorter..

The first Comp Cam went flat.

The Sealed Power Lifters (HT855 - from Northern Auto) died.

The first and fourth on the driver's side. The others were fine.


So.. radiator came back out, and so forth - and this time, the 8274 had to be pulled so I could pull the camshaft out.

I tried a second Comp custom grind, and ordered a set of HT855s from SummitRacing - ~$200 for the cam, $100 for the lifters.

I bought some Comp Cams break-in oil too - rather than my IH Case #1 Low Ash + Comp additive.

Fast forward - I ran it 20-30 minutes like I should, backed it out of the garage, went to the edge of the property and back, pulled it back in the garage, and pulled that f*cker out again.

This time several more sh*t lifters.

That's 2 cams.

This time, it was the 1st and 6th back on the driver's side.



Couple on the other side were not so good either.

This time, I ordered an Isky 262/262 after wondering if there was "something" about the custom grind on the IH blank that was causing Comp some issues.

I bought another set of $100 HT855s from Summit Racing.

I also bought 10qt of Joe Gibbs Break-in 15w-40 this time.

This time, I took a look at the lifters I had bought.



Hmmm..

I looked at the faces, and I wasn't sure on the results.

I wound up ordering a $200 set of Comp Cams sourced lifters as well - yes, to run on my Iskendarian camshaft.

Here's a quick look.



Left is a "NOS" HT855 I have for the new race mill. I hadn't installed them.

Looking at the set, the machining marks seem to suggest a hint of a "point" in the center - the lines all converge.

On the right is the new Chinese HT855. The majority of these had tooling marks that 'missed" the center and left a bald-spot right in the middle.

Not a point, but an eraser heard.

In the back is the Comp lifters - hard to say on their finish, they seemed to have a coating on the face, but you could also see to concentric rings on most through the coating.

I went with the Comp lifters this time.

And I didn't installed the winch. Or the grille. Or the coolers. Or even the power steering belt.

I put on my "window" valve cover and fired it, aiming for the 2500rpm mark, and watched.

The driver's side had some pushrods spin, some didn't. I tried to help, and a few started to turn, but others never did.

I couldn't see the lifters clear enough to see if the lifter was turning, but the plunger was spinning inside the lifter or not.

After 5 minutes, the pinched valve cover gasket compelled me to shut it down.

So I pulled the lifters out again.

Not bad. Not shot.



They went back in, and another 20 minutes followed.

At that point, the closest noise to lifter tick was actually the 454 TBI injectors - putting my hand around the TBI quieted it up.

Tonight I went for another ride around the neighborhood -first to warm up it, then after I set the base timing better, I went for another short drive.

So far so OK.

I had hear a little valvetrain noise at higher RPM - but only when I'm compression breaking and the other engine noises are quieter - not over the glasspacks like it was on the first camshaft.

Speaking of the headers and glasspacks - I had gotten used to and even a little fond of them with the old 345.

I think this 392 has a little more bark.

Quiet enough cruising, but I kept feeling like I was making hot laps in the racer (*sigh*) as I was cruising around the neighborhood trying to keep the Rs up a bit.


In any case, I made it home and aside from wanting to die every time I coasted to a stop sign, so far a successful trip.



Maybe I need to adjust the IAC, maybe it's the idle too low, or maybe it's still too fresh of an engine. :)


In other news, I'm pondering pulling the Dana 20 apart and replacing the front output.

Oil weeps out the splines and all over the floor.



I've replaced the seal, installed a new 1310 CV flange, and when I put the transfer case back in, I even cleaned and then Right Stuff'd the splines.

I think the splines are a sloppy fit on the yoke, and letting it weep - I've replaced the yoke, so the only thing left is to pull and examine the splines on the output shaft..


I'd like to know more what the "real" problem with the Comp cams was - was it the Chinese lifters? Was it too aggressive? Should I really have followed the manufacturer's instructions (idiot!) and put some light valve springs on for the break-in?

Was it the Comp lifters that did it for me in the end? The milder Isky cam? The non-custom Isky grind? A combination of all?

Given these issues, I may pull the valve springs from the race mill and put something lighter on for the break in - but that'll be at least somewhat easier if I remember to pull the springs before I install the heads.
 

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Damn Tom...You are making me sad for you just reading this. That fully sucks to have spent that much time on RnR'ing the same parts.


I am thinking that this winter I am going to put a cam in the Cadillac motor and redo the heads to go along with it. I have a couple of ticks that at certain RPM's sound like a lifter is going to remove itself from the engine.

Couple that with the fact that I can't get more than about 2300rpm out of my motor and it is just time. 1969 motor that I don't think has ever been rebuilt.

Might as well throw on my 454 TBI this winter as well.

I see that you have the big stand-off belly for yours as well. Did you run the coolant lines to it, or just use it as the spacer?
 

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Damn Tom...You are making me sad for you just reading this. That fully sucks to have spent that much time on RnR'ing the same parts.
Spend a year building an engine "just right" - seal lit up on the stand, check this, gauge that.. d'oh!

I am thinking that this winter I am going to put a cam in the Cadillac motor and redo the heads to go along with it. I have a couple of ticks that at certain RPM's sound like a lifter is going to remove itself from the engine.
The first cam had some noise - and I've had a little noise from heavy valve springs and aggressive cams before, but this was more of the staccato "dry lifter" kind of noise common to an old IH that hasn't been exercised for a few months and you first fire it.

Only it was all the time. It was moderately quiet at idle to 1000 or maybe more, but at 2000rpm it was noticeably loud and annoying - the wrong kind of attention getter. :D

Couple that with the fact that I can't get more than about 2300rpm out of my motor and it is just time. 1969 motor that I don't think has ever been rebuilt.
OK, now that I couldn't stand. I tolerate it with the T444E..

Might as well throw on my 454 TBI this winter as well.

I see that you have the big stand-off belly for yours as well. Did you run the coolant lines to it, or just use it as the spacer?
For the moment, just as a spacer.

You do have some work to do to the adapter.




Rather than try my hand on the mill, I tried the cheap DIY route and used epoxy to fill in the spaces around the part number and such so the gasket will sit right.

And then I just used it as an adapter for the time being.

IF I get problems with icing, I'll add it into the heater line.

You won't have this problem, but on the IH there isn't a lot of room for that heater line.



But that was my thought - if I have a problem this winter, I'll address it. Otherwise, it's just a big thick spacer.

Man that's just gut wrenching brutal to be going through that. I hope you have it solved.
Dang Tom, that sucks!!!
Thanks guys!

Seems about normal for me, but yeah, it was really bringing the suck.

As one guy on the Binder Planet put it:

$1000 in camshafts and lifters later...

$600 in camshafts, and $400 in lifters.. plus the oil, and then there's the overall disgust and distrust.. :D

I did at least stop filling it with Prestone each time and switched to straight water for a while there..
 

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Well...look on the bright side, now you can swap a cam shaft in less than 15 minutes.


:flipoff2:
 

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Well...look on the bright side, now you can swap a cam shaft in less than 15 minutes.


:flipoff2:
Gotta make up for being so out of practice R&Ring Dana 44 axle shafts..


Made it to work and back today.



I hear what sounds like a touch of an exhaust leak, but the bolts are all tight and I can't FEEL any puffs.. we'll see.

Took my oldest home with me and she squealed in delight when we pulled out into traffic on the way home.

I sounds impressive, but you have to take off in Granny or the wheel hop is too bad, then it's a short shift to 2nd, and then it'll get moving, but then you lumber into the next gear.. it's noisy, but it ain't quick.

Did a little tune with the BLMs logged on the way home.

I also changed the idle from 525 to 575 tonight, hoping I won't have to feather it at every stop sign.

Picked up some Valvoline VR-1 Racing 10w30 - on sale at O'reilly's this month for $5 a quart..

Drove around the block after we got home, and I romped on it into the driveway.

I was a little half hearted, but hoped to break the rear end loose a little - which it did, but it also plowed the nose (in 2wd) and I found myself drifting the Scout into the driveway.

It's been a long time since I did something like that - 4 Terras on the racer will do that. I didn't expect it, and it spooked me for a moment - I'm out of practice, and that much Scout in a 4-wheel drift right in front of the house - and the drainage ditch - got my attention. :D
 

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Still have hop issues? I thought you had corrected that a while ago. As soon as I put my anti-wrap bar on...All power on the ground, all the time.

Drove mine to work today and dropped off the younger son at school as well. :smokin:
 

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Wow. Here I thought this rig was completely gone. I used to wheel with a previous owner of this rig back in the 90's when I was in high school. Lot's of great memories flooding back even though she's changed a lot since then. Thanks for keeping her alive.
 

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Still have hop issues? I thought you had corrected that a while ago. As soon as I put my anti-wrap bar on...All power on the ground, all the time.
Yeah.

I thought it was because Robert had just a single link in place - so I went to a triangulated ladder bar with a shackle - problem solved when I did that on the racer at least.

Not so for this rig.

I KNOW if the tires are a little soft (beadlocks leak a bit) it is worse - so maybe it's really sidewall flex?

But even aired up, it hates to take off in 2nd gear (3:1, wide T19). Hops and jumps and bucks.

It is a 12" clutch, but the 12" clutch in my Travelette never had this problem - in fact, empty, I can drive it as a 2-spd taking off in 3rd and going to 5th.

I've even changed the transmission (for a different reason) with the same results.

I had a buddy help identify at least one exhaust leak at the passenger collector - seem to have that licked.

Now to see if I can still hear some sort of tick - and if I can call that normal enough or not. ;)

I think the boat rockers may make more noise than the welded rockers do just by design, but I dunno yet.

I haven't gone for a ride since tightening the collector last night..
 
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