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Love the Scout. Out of curiosity, what assembly lube did you use on the cam and lifters, sorry if I missed it above.
Assembly lube?





:D

First cam I put on Comp Cams assembly lube that came with the cam on the lobes and lifter bottoms, motor oil of some sort on the bearing journals.

Second cam, I put on Comp Cams assembly lube on the journals and lifters, and oil on the journals.

Third cam, I used the Iskendarian Racing Cams assembly lube that came with the cam on the lobes and lifters, and motor oil on the journals.


I did drive the Scout to work on Monday, and it's nice to have the collector leak gone, but the tick remains.

Got a little startup tick too.

I've been mucking out the shop while I sulk a little. :flipoff2:

I shipped the two ruined Comp Cams back to Comp today.

I'm going to swing by the machine shop and see about having the old stock valve springs and hardware cleaned up.

I hope to pull some lifters later this week and make a decision.

IF they are bad again...

I'm tossing the "930" springs. I think I'll buy some 924 BBC like I should have in the first place.

But if I'm going to do the replacement on the engine, I think I'll play it paranoid and try to install the stock springs first and do as Comp - and others - says and run some wimpy springs for break-in.

The 924 springs compared to the ones I'm running are wimpy. But the old factory springs are wimpier still.

I had thought the 936 springs were not heavy enough and robbed me of 1000 rpm on the race 'mill - but maybe they were too heavy.

So when I asked for "a little more" than the 936 springs.. I may have gone the wrong way.

(Robert - a set of 924 springs may wake up the hot-rod... )


Code:
924 Retainer 741  double
924 @ 1.90 = 112
924 @ 1.85 = 229
924 @ 1.80 = 247
924 @ 1.40 = 285
924 @ 1.30 = 320
924 @ 1.25 = 337
924 @ 1.20 = 355

936 Retainer 741  single
936 @ 1.90 = 110
936 @ 1.85 = 165
936 @ 1.80 = 182
936 @ 1.40 = 312
936 @ 1.25 = 360

930 Retainer 741  double
930 @ 1.90 = 153
930 @ 1.85 = 171
930 @ 1.80 = 180
930 @ 1.40 = 330
930 @ 1.25 = 383

910 single spring
910 @ 1.90 = 72
910 @ 1.85 = 92
910 @ 1.40 = 279
910 @ 1.35 = 323
 

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Frustrating as hell, but it will be worth it in the end. Throw a bed sheet over it... just don't sell!

That's my problem. I always sell when I'm frustrated and sick of looking at a project with small problems in the final hours.

Looks nice anyway!
 

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Damn Chinese lifters :mad3: How are the new lifters & cam holding up?
 

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I owe you guys an update. I need to finish organizing some pics and will post some progress perhaps tonight.

Short form is so far so good. Wheeled it once or twice. Put a tank or two of fuel through it. Won some trophies at the JustIH BinderBash.

I haven't driven it too recently - I lost a mudflap and think twice before driving it until I replace it. At least with the flaps I look like I am trying to comply with the law.. :flipoff2:
 

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Frustrating as hell, but it will be worth it in the end. Throw a bed sheet over it... just don't sell!

That's my problem. I always sell when I'm frustrated and sick of looking at a project with small problems in the final hours.

Looks nice anyway!
I'm too cheap to sell. :D

Though the 196 I built for "Tony's Scout" that didn't pan out - I still don't know why, but I decided to cut my losses and recover $20 in scrap value..


Anyhow.. I've been driving the Scout off and on. More at first, a little less lately.

I wheeled! :flipoff2:

7/12/2015 we had a trail ride, including a mile long abandoned railroad tunnel just for fun..



Motor worked well enough. I was trying not to be too hard on it. It did get hot as we approached lunch - not uncommon for a rebuilt IH. It needs more break-in miles. (Usually about the time I'm ready to do some drastic to fix the big cooling problem, the engines settle in and don't overheat any more - probably 10,000 miles though..)

So meanwhile I just need to keep driving it.

Other than a bit hot at times, I discovered the 14-bolt is a low hanging pig - as I high centered TWICE on different rocks.

I also found that I need to do some work on the twin-stick 3:1 Dana 20.

The intermediate bearings may be shot, and/or I need to shim the shift rail poppet springs - it walked out of RWD low range a few times. Solution was to shove it back in. :D

After the second run through the tunnel, we paused to air up, and Audrey paused for photos.



I needed one of just me for the UFWDA Voice, too.

 

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8/8/2015 we hit the JustIH BinderBash

Audrey took home some bling.



John Fleck of BCB was there so I picked up more parts for the other Scouts - and new window felts for the SnowScout.








Unrelated to the SnowScout..

The F350 rebuilt ZF6 #3 died on this trip.

It ran hot, because Aamco never rebuilt the oil pump in the ZF6. So I wound up in 5th gear at 55mph again the entire way there and back - but on the way back home, even that stopped working when it started jumping out of 3rd gear.

I think it's fixed again now - another $2200, but this time to a buddy that knows what he's doing. Aamco declined to do anything for me when I was within my 12k miles but a few months beyond the 12 months - I had been too nervous to put it to work. I'm almost relieved I didn't have to give them yet another try to screw things up.


I took home another RTI ramp win, won my class, and picked up my first ever Kid's Choice.



They made some cool trophies.



 

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Missed an event - wheeled the Scout a second time on 8/1.

The radio club runs comms for a 50mile foot race.. not that the runners are big 4x4 supporters, but maybe they have a better appreciation for me after they jog past and I'm passing health and welfare traffic for them.

My daughters joined me.



There are 7 or so checkpoints that the Hams man for this race. This one is on "one rough road" that no one wants to drive. So instead of hiking in the night before, and out the next day, I wake up in the morning, romp on it up the "rough" road, sit around for a few hours, do some shooting, and drive home.

I get up after everyone else, get on station after everyone else, and get home before anyone else. :D

All because of a "rough" road. :D

 

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Somewhere along the way at the JustIH show, I lost one of my removable mud-flaps, and chewed up the other.

I couldn't find another set of "Montana" mud flaps, so I had to look around for something else.

I think I over did it.




I've since cut them in half - I'll have an extra set of 15" tall mud-flaps. the 30" mud flaps, as you can see, touched the ground.

(1) A person may not move, or permit to be moved, a vehicle, except a motorcycle, quadricycle, motor-driven cycle, or farm tractor, as defined in this title, upon the public highways without having first equipped the rearmost wheels or set of wheels of the vehicle with fenders, splash aprons, or flaps. The fenders, splash aprons, or flaps must be designed, constructed, and attached to the vehicle in a manner that arrests and deflects dirt, mud, water, rocks, and other substances that may be picked up by the rear wheels of the vehicle and thrown into the air, as follows:

(a) If the vehicle is equipped with fenders, the fenders must extend in full width from a point above and forward of the center of the tire or tires over and to the rear of the tires.

(b) If the vehicle is equipped with splash aprons or flaps, the splash aprons or flaps must extend downward in full width from a point not lower than halfway between the center of the tire or tires and the top of the tire or tires and to the rear of the tires.

(c) If the vehicle is in excess of 8,000 pounds gross vehicle weight or rating, the fenders, splash aprons, or flaps must extend downward to a point that is not more than 10 inches above the surface of the highway when the vehicle is empty.

(d) If the vehicle is 8,000 pounds or less gross vehicle weight or rating, the fenders, splash aprons, or flaps must extend downward to a point that is not more than 20 inches above the surface of the highway when the vehicle is empty.

(2) Fenders, splash aprons, or flaps, as used in subsection (1), must be constructed as follows:

(a) when measured on the cross-sections of the tread of the wheel or on the combined cross-sections of the treads of multiple wheels, the fender, splash apron, or flap extends at least to each side of the width of the tire or of the combined width of the multiple tires; and

(b) the fender, splash apron, or flap is capable at all times of arresting and deflecting dirt, mud, water, or other substance that may be picked up and carried by the wheel or wheels.

(3) This section does not apply to street rod vehicles; motor vehicles not originally equipped with fenders, splash aprons, or flaps; or motor vehicles for which fenders, splash aprons, or flaps were not required by federal law or regulation at the time of manufacture.

(4) For purposes of 61-9-430 and this section, "street rod" means a vehicle manufactured before 1949 that has been modified in body style or design.
Whew, I had to double check - being 15" off the ground will still be lower than the 20" I need to comply with.

Mostly the mud-flaps are there to cover the width of the tire, to distract attention from how much hangs outside of the body work..
 

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So, the Scout mostly works now.

Exhaust is still noisy, the T19 is leaking a little oil, the Dana 20 wants to come out of 2wd low - or rattles when you go from "drive" to "coast" at times, but mostly, it's doing OK.

Now to address some other issues - like the worn out seat covers, and those seat-heaters I bought for Christmas last year.

Years ago I sold a Scout to a co-worker. He bought some new Corbeau's for it. Never installed them. Eventually traded the Scout away after driving it for a few years.. contacted me this summer and asked if I wanted to buy some seats -just when I was looking at what it was going to cost to recover the ones I have.

You may also recall I had done a little research on how to tilt the passenger seat a while back.

Must be time to do something.







Yeah, I didn't bend the underside evenly - dang - nor the same length.

The length I had planned for.




I wanted to be able to adjust where the pivot point winds up anyways..

so a little 1.75x.120 sleeves over the 1.5x.120 gives me that adjustment AND compensates for making one leg shorter than the other.



The rollcage seat mounts are 1" tubing.

So some 1.25x.120 Bronze OR a similar piece of poly pipe will be my bearing.





I added some cross bars.



I have several goals here.

Seat to tilt, from just behind the front edge of the seat - this will allow my kids to get into the backseat a little easier, without climbing over the front seat, and ducking under the radios.

The other angle - Michelle's back is paying for her wilder youth, and she hasn't mastered how to "float" in the #2 seat and instead tries to fight it, and winds up hurting herself.

Solution?

The back-brace seat mount will let me mount the 5pt harness without a back-bar.

Making it all pivot will also mean no shoulder belt hanging from the B pillar to clothesline someone going in/out of the rear seat.

So in theory, I can get her into the seat and cinch the 5pt harness, and she'll be stuck in place in the suspension seat.

To that end, the lower (at the bend) cross bar now (after the pic) has a sleeved 1/2" hole in it for the shoulder belts to bolt to.

The two "upper" crossbars are for the belts to ride on/over.

The lower bar is at the belt-slots on the seat. The upper bar is higher, for taller people if need be - or a taller seat.

I may put a small LED light "bar" on the top for a reading light for my daughter.
 

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In the middle of that, I did install the seat heater.





There is a lot of para cord here, but one is the suspension seat, the one around the outside is the seat cover - just need to take the outer loop off.





Start stripping it. Just like your toddler.. turn it inside out.






The heaters are just peel-and-stick at that point.



Fish the wires out.



Get the seat cover back on, and tie it up.
 

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More tech tonight..

While I made a mount for the stereo, the head unit still gives me some trouble, but in any case..



 

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Corbeau kit.


I bought it from Amazon... Yikes.. 12/2013.
Corbeau Seat Heaters $95

The Dorman may be no different. I had some 5% off thing going at the time for the Christmas season..

"Look, Honey, I bought you a seat heaters for Christmas.."

"No, for the Scout we drive once a month, not your daily driver. Duh..."
 

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Other than a bit hot at times, I discovered the 14-bolt is a low hanging pig - as I high centered TWICE on different rocks.
Did you shave the lip off the bottom yet? No need for a 13 bolt shave, just cut off tbe bottom lip and and grind the cover smooth to match.
 

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Did you shave the lip off the bottom yet? No need for a 13 bolt shave, just cut off tbe bottom lip and and grind the cover smooth to match.
No, I haven't touched it. I didn't think it would be "that" bad - I went from Dana 44s and 36s, to a 14-bolt and 38s.

After running aground, I was just thinking I needed taller tires. :flipoff2:

Still, it is about time I take the 9" grinder to the 14-bolt.

Thank you for the reminder!
 

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It helps a lot just to get the smooth bottom. I'm running 37s and I have not got hung up since I chopped lip off. Gained about 3/4-1" The Ruff Stuff diff cover is ground flush, too. Didn't take long, 2 cut off wheels to chop it off and a flap disc to smooth it out. :beer:
 

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I wheeled again.

I ran aground on the 14-bolt again.

I also ran into some tree stumps that the full width axles decided to grab.. :D

First, the mud-flaps - big-truck flaps cut in half.




I also test fit the new seat mount.




It was late at night, but I even got my model to test out the seat (as the rear sat on a 2x4)




The seat will sit lower, and a little bit forward of where it was before, but as little forward as possible in the end.



The new seats are narrower than the old - so I have room enough to put the seat belt mounts on the frame and space them out a little and still clear the seat-base/rollcage.

I'm still noodling on how to latch the seat.



I can either put a drop bar under the seat base to keep it from going down too far, or weld some little ears on the seat cage to do the same, but that doesn't latch the seat.

I bought a set of Hi-Lift hardened climbing pins with the thought of doing something cool with them.

Would pinning one side be sufficient in anyone's opinion, or are both sides required?

I've been assuming both are required.

The Hi-Lift pins may just not work out - they may be too short, and too hard to extend - though drilling/grinding the flat face threading would help.

I want to mount a spring-loaded pin of some sort to the pivoting seat base, and wire the left and right pins together with cable, with a pivot in there somewhere, such that you have a single arm you pull, which draws the two pins "together" (pulling them towards the center of the seat) to disengage. Then tilt.

If ONE side would do the job, you could just put a single pin on the outside and slide it in/out as needed.

Harder to do with two pins. :D

Hrmm...
 

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Trailered the Snow Scout 50-ish miles to Bernice, MT to go wheelin'.

It was as much a test of the rebuilt ZF6 as anything else - it hit 150deg but that was it.




Lunch at the Leadville mining camp - first time I remember stopping there in a few years - usually there's too much snow and if we even get this far, the sun is setting and we're beating feet..



On the trail.


We ran over to Blizzard for a look around - I now have to adjust my door, since the wind tried to send it off the top of the mountain and now it catches on the fender.

You can see the big whip is bending the opposite way of how it usually does..




Some of the view


Later on when we stopped at a reclaimed mine site..




I did notice later that the inner axle shaft has been rubbing a little.



And after unloading at home



Photo Album

The 14-bolt remains a problem running aground. The Dana 20 still likes to slide out of low-range - RWD in particular.

Engine ran well. Did not overheat.

Worse thing I can say about it is with the glasspacks and the way it runs.. on the way back down I found a few smoothish sections of trail and had to romp on it.

The 2" ram makes drifting turns problematic, since sometimes you can't counter steer faster enough - adds a new wrinkle to the fun.
 

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Glad to see the SnoScout out and about.

I also test fit the new seat mount.
I'm still noodling on how to latch the seat.
Would pinning one side be sufficient in anyone's opinion, or are both sides required?
I've been assuming both are required.

The Hi-Lift pins may just not work out - they may be too short, and too hard to extend - though drilling/grinding the flat face threading would help.

I want to mount a spring-loaded pin of some sort to the pivoting seat base, and wire the left and right pins together with cable, with a pivot in there somewhere, such that you have a single arm you pull, which draws the two pins "together" (pulling them towards the center of the seat) to disengage. Then tilt.

If ONE side would do the job, you could just put a single pin on the outside and slide it in/out as needed.

Harder to do with two pins. :D

Hrmm...
I'd think you'd want two latches, one on each side (inner/outer), or if just one latch centered in the rear, rather than just one side.

How about a spring loaded latch with a pull knob or chain? You could add a rod/ lever/cable to pull both open to tilt the seat forward, but then it would latch when it flips back to ride.

1235a11p1l.png

1066ac1l.png

Or just some spring loaded pins: Weld in Pull Pins
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-in-pull-pins/=zcpcq5

91712a119p1l.png

91712a222p1l.png

You could always thread an extension on the inner one so they'd both pull at the same time from a single, easy to reach knob on the outer side of the seat frame.
 
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