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Discussion Starter #1
I am putting a 22rec into a 1980 pickup. The motor came out of a 1985 pickup with 207K miles. The owner says it has been sitting inside for 5 years. I can't turn the motor over by wrenching on the crank pulley. I let wd40 sit in it for a few days and still nothing. I put ATF into the cylinders for a day and no luck. I pulled the head and it looks fine. No rust just carbon on the pistons. I have tried turning it by prying against the drive shaft bolts on the t-case flange and it will not budge.

I don't know if the motor has been bored, but the pistons have .50 stamped into them. The cylinder walls have more crossed diagonal marks than verticle marks on them. Would pistons have that stamped if they were original? Would new rings make it hard to turn over?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, I guess thats next. I put some more ATF on the pistons so maybe that will free things up.

There are no belts on the motor so it is not the water pump or alt.

The motor is on a bare frame so I have access to everything. Is there anything to look for specifically if I drop the pan. This is only the third motor I have dug into. I don't know what the right bearings would look like.

Would it be bad to us a wood block and hammer on the pistons to maybe free up siezed rings?
 

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if you drop the pan, pop off a main crankshaft cap and a couple of the piston rod caps (dont mix them up!). see if they've got 'STD' (standard) stamped on them. if the bearings are shot, overtorqued, or wrong size, that might be why you're not able to turn it.

a wood block & hammer might work, but if the connecting rod is in an up-down position it probably won't want to roll.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just gave each piston a few gentle taps with a brass drift & ball peen. No movement but maybe it will start breaking things loose. I'm will not have time to drop the pan today so I guess I'll get messy after work tomorrow.

If the bearings check out would a little heat help things free up. I don't want to screw anything up but I would like to get this thing moving before I put the cab on.
 

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the dust shield that bolts to the back of the block b-4 the flyweel goes on,the bolts that hold it on have low profile heads if they are replaced with the wrong ones they will hit the flyweel and not let it spin.just an idea if the engine was in pieces when you got it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll check that. When I got it the motor was in a truck and bolted to the trans. I'm not sure if it was driving when it was put up. The clutch is new and the flywheel looks like it was just resurfaced. I'm now wondering if the motor was rebuilt and reclutched then set aside before it was cranked and driven. I don't know how bad that would be.
 

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NATO4x4 said:
I'll check that. When I got it the motor was in a truck and bolted to the trans. I'm not sure if it was driving when it was put up. The clutch is new and the flywheel looks like it was just resurfaced. I'm now wondering if the motor was rebuilt and reclutched then set aside before it was cranked and driven. I don't know how bad that would be.
it doesn't take much rust to glue those rings
to the cylinder wall. try locking the head back
down & putting compressed air to different
cylinders over time. just be careful when you do
get them out, you don't score cyl. walls. pistons
tell me cylinders have been bored .50 over, &
that doesn't leave you alot wall thickness.
 
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