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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well did a doa search first off and got two topics <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> miss the old archives.
OK A while ago I played in just a little to big a puddle and in getting the front corner of my truck under water I injestd water. Just let it run itself out but it took a few. Valve lash was fubar so I reset that. Truck was never really the same for power. Well one day I had my shift boots off after a clutch install and was missing a couple exaust studs do to life and vibrations and seen oil smoke comin in the truck. <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> Well I throw on a compression guage and 130 130 140 60. Well it seems #4 has a problem. I am thinking rings or maybee valves in my full DOA head kit.So I go through the PITA and pull the head. Looks ok. GOTTA check closer today. Drop the oil pan and pull #4 piston and it all seems fine But I don't know exactly what to look for in the rings.
well in the oil pan was the top guide part of my drivers side chain guide. I have a different set of plastic guides from my full rebuild 30k ago. But I am thinking of the DOA steel guides.
Here are the Q's Are the doa guides worth the 30-60? dollars (was there a few minuts ago)
What exactly causes the guides to break loos chain or would this be an issue with dunking the motor?
Would this somehow cause #4 to be half compression?
Is an early model 20r's timing cover with a double row chain the same as DOA's cover? is double worth it?
What else should I look for to see whats wrong with #4??? Common guys i ain't no friggin newbie, lets play 20 Q's <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> thanx
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
damn this board is movin like normal for a holiday.
Well flipped the head upside down and had water leak out the #4 exaust port in a very slow dripping kinda way. Can anyone tell me how easy it is to replace this, or guides?
 

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Next time you do a compression check, do it dry and wet. This means that you check it like you did, (Make sure you hold the throttle wide open when you do it). Then, if you have low reading(s), put about 1/2 to 1 ounce of motor oil in the low cylinder and check again. If it comes up significantly, you have a ring problem. If not, valves are likely the problem, though it can be both.

Sounds like you may have a cracked head...Not unlikely after a dunking. If it were rings, they would likely be broken, or stuck in the ring lands. If the cylinders are not scored, you probably have head problems. Be sure the machine shop pressure checks it.
 

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Don't forget to check for bent connecting rods. Especially after water in the cylinders. BTDT. <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ordered tims guides today cuz as he says "plastic doesn't belong in a motor" He also said that I probably sligtly warped the valve and that my local machine shop can just "lap" them and make them work. Whatever lapping is. Something to do with resurfaceing...
 

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Skyebaby,

If there was coolant in the exhaust ports, you've got some cavitation in the head. I've seen this a lot on older, high milage 20/22Rs. Long coolant change intervals or running straight water eats away the coolant passages that run close to the exhaust ports. Over time, you'll get a leak. If the area is accesible enough, a machine shop can repair it.

Valve lapping? Geez, I didn't think machine shops still did that! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Lapping is basically a poor-man's valve grind. Using a lapping compound on the valve's margin cleans up both the valve and the seat. The compound is spread on the valve, the valve is installed into the guide, and the valve gets spun with a tool made specifically for this. Here is what the tool looks like:

Wood's Power Grip Valve Lapper

A short writeup on valve lapping can be found here.

Good luck! <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanx jim. Yea it is a brand new (30k?) head and valve setup from DOA and tim is the one who threw out the idea so I think I will have the machine shop clean and check it all out for the 25$ he charges. I thought that was lapping BTW.....
 

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Tim's steel guides are toyota 20R factory steel guides that he machines to work in a 22R, A 22R or 20R with a dual has the steel guides to start off with.Bud R machined his own, said it took to long for him to do again, so get the DOA's.and let the machine shop go over the whole head and replace anything wrong instead of doing it twice <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 
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