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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well here's where I'm at so far, 2 in. YJ BDS springs, 76-86 rear CJ hardwear, 6 in. 3/8 flat stock shackles (stock is 4 in. so 1 in lift, that and it evens out the mounting area of the spring). However I'm concerned that it will not be enough of an angle, I was thinking of kicking the mounts in more before I blaze them into the frame so I would have more droop in the shackle, but whats everyone think, this is a DD :confused: . Will I have a better ride and better performance off road if I go with a bit more angle? I had my Mom and Pop stand on the rear cross member for me to simulate a tank of gas, tank skid, bumper, and spair tire carrier without a tire, it kicks back a little more but not much. In these pics the rear is supported by the jack stands under the springs, providing an almost true to life angle, minus the above parts and point surface pressure of the spring pad, however the jack-stand pad should provide a semi-accurate pressure point.
- Zach
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
2:
 

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I think you will be just fine, once you get the springs set on the axles, and the body wieght is on everything, the angle will be greater... Should work.
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Scott I edited the post to say that the weight is on the springs. I'll delete this after ya get a chance to read it.
 

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Zach, the angle seems fine to me if you are supporting the weight on the axles, and have tank and tire weight equalized. IMO it looks fine. I had a similar angle with my setup, and changed the rear shackles to boomerang type shackles, but not a lot of difference.

Looks pretty clean :)

Gui
 

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Yeah, I think the angle needs to be a bit more. Mine are about like that now and I wish I would have gone greater.
 

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I would move it a bit also. As the shackle angle decreases from 90 your spring rate will begin to lower giving you more flex and a smoother ride. If you have the ability to tack the mount in place, stick the axle on and use a jack to flex it out a bit. I like about 60 deg. You have to make sure that when flexed it does not invert the shackle. Keep in mind that you should give a good buffer in your calculations as the leverage on the trail will be much greater than that in your garage. The springs will also sag as they break in and that will reduce the angle further.
Here is how mine sat with neutral weight and fresh springs.
 

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I almost have it correct here. As you can see, the spring is flat and the shackle is not inverted on the left. On the right it has plenty of droop left. In this case, i will probably move the mount rearward a bit as the shackle is a bit too close to inversion for my taste. Once again, my project is not complete so I cannot give you any real world pics, but i hope this help you out. If it matters to you, the springs are 2.5" OME YJ type.
 

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i too would add a bit more angle. more angle = more droop. however too much angel is bad too.
 

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I'd say go back another inch or so, wish I had. Mine looked just like that, and still do even with tools, spare and passengers.

Plus, you will pick up more wheelbase.
 

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1972CJ5+1 said:
I almost have it correct here. As you can see, the spring is flat and the shackle is not inverted on the left.


:confused: Looks to me like you need longer shackles. Those suckers will invert instantly when you first drive it. And you dont have any more room for droop in the shackle.

cj5in4wheeldrive, it looks fine, where is the tank going in?
 

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These are just a token set of short shackles i was using for setup. I agree they were too short. I have already made longer ones, but i thought the picture applied to his question. Either way, it will likely be links and coils before it hits the trail for the first time. Thanks for the input
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tank will be in stock locating, thats why I'm kinda concerned with pushing the main eye mounts back more, that and the fact I've got the frontmost bolt in the flat and the rearmost is where the frame starts to curve up.
- Zach
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Pic:
 

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Before you weld those in all the way remember that befoer the weight is applied you want a 90 degree anlge on your shackles, any less or more and you springs will suffer or you will kick that shackle out and loose some lift. Look slike its coming along well though........too bad about the yellow on the frame:D
 

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CJ5inFourWheelDrive said:
Tank will be in stock locating, thats why I'm kinda concerned with pushing the main eye mounts back more, that and the fact I've got the frontmost bolt in the flat and the rearmost is where the frame starts to curve up.
- Zach
I just welded shackle hangers last week. All I did was clamp front and back. I have some woodwork clamps that I could open up to the top of the frame, measured four times comparing each side, and clamped front and back down for the same spacing from the frame. Like in your photo, it would not be flat on the front, the hanger would be angled with the frame a little. This way you wont have to worry about where you are welding it so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
They're going to be bolted and welded, since everyone is saying about pushing it back more then :flipoff2: lets roll, kick the breakers and wake up the neighbors, the frame's gettin choped up.
 
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