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Discussion Starter #1
I know that the SRS with waggy springs has been gone over a bunch but in my searches that I did before I started mine I could not find what I was wanting to do.

1. Get as much clearance out of the front as I could (no big spring hangers to keep castor in check).

2. Gain about 2" wheelbase to clear the tires as they travel towards the fender with the shackle change.

3.Lower the front as much as I could to fill the new tube fenders (most SRS's raise the front).

Here is what I ended up with:



I used 3"1/2 x 1/4" steel tube for the front hangers


The spring was placed as close to the frame as I could get it without making contact at full compression (I am using a fairly flat spring so there is not a lot of rearward movement).


I bought these inserts with bushings from MORE to recess the shackle in the frame, mounting it a little towards the bottom to keep the shackle from hitting during flex.



With moving the axle forward about 2" (Waggy springs and front hanger placement) I was running into steering issues with my high steer. The drag ling and tie rod were going to contact each other. My cure was to get a stock CJ pitman and ream it from the top so the drag link would be up and away from the tie rod. I had to raise my radiator to do this and will now be installing a electric fan as the radiator is not in good placement with the fan/shroud. I wanted to keep the stock steering configuration for competition use as the rules require (mod stock) and besides, its cheaper than fancy steering arms behind the axle.


Next I had to address the driveshaft, being that I am not using a lift spring I am able to get away without having the super long slip driveshaft. This one is the longest that spicer makes, it ended up working just right (so far) and only time will tell if it will indeed last.
 

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Kick ass job. What springs are those? Looks like the main leafs are already starting to bend at the ends of the second leaf. I'm digin the minimal lift. How much uptravel did you end up with?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
TexasBlake said:
You said you had the "longest driveshaft spicer made"

Did you piece your own together from Spicer parts, or is it from a specific vehicle at a junk yard or somthing.
That is the stock driveshaft. It worked out just right with the longer slip and the added wheelbase to cut the old slip off and just put the new one on.

Kick ass job. What springs are those? Looks like the main leafs are already starting to bend at the ends of the second leaf. I'm digin the minimal lift. How much uptravel did you end up with?
The springs are 5 leaf waggoneer springs, 47" with 2" pin offset. I ended up with 3" of uptravel, I had 2" before.
 

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I'm going to assume you put the short end of the springs at the front. If so, your wheelbase gain is entirely in the spring hanger placement since Waggie and YJ/CJ springs have almost the exact same distance from spring eye to centering pin. This of course is using the distance of the short leg of the Waggie springs.

It is some very nice work! I like how clean it looks.
 

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Heres a :beer: for you, nice work on the hangers and shackles.

I would like to see:
1: flex shots of the front due to the long ass shackle
2: side shots of the fenders
 

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CSP said:
I'm going to assume you put the short end of the springs at the front. If so, your wheelbase gain is entirely in the spring hanger placement since Waggie and YJ/CJ springs have almost the exact same distance from spring eye to centering pin. This of course is using the distance of the short leg of the Waggie springs.

It is some very nice work! I like how clean it looks.
If you look at the front eye it is in the stock location(but srs), so the WB gain is all in the waggy springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't have anthing of the flex yet, but here is one of the fender. I had to do something with them after a roll, I was still able to use the inner fender.

 

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B.A.R.K said:


If you look at the front eye it is in the stock location(but srs), so the WB gain is all in the waggy springs.
WB gain with Waggie springs is only possible with the fixed hanger at the rear. With SRS you either get no wheelbase change or a decrease in wheelbase, depending on how the spring is mounted.

He already mentioned the the front eye was moved forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
CSP said:


WB gain with Waggie springs is only possible with the fixed hanger at the rear. With SRS you either get no wheelbase change or a decrease in wheelbase, depending on how the spring is mounted.

He already mentioned the the front eye was moved forward.
I gained 2" by mounting the waggy spring backwards and another 1/2" by moving the fixed hanger forward. If I would have mounted the spring in the regular direction I would have decreased the wheelbase. The springs I used (5 leaf) have 9/16 bolt holes at both ends so reversing them was not a problem.
 

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Great job. Spring hangers look good. Your garage flex tests may not get those springs/shackles on the frame but that will make for a rough ride off road. They will bottom out. Longer shackles or maybe a different shackle hanger will help. When I was designing mine I thought about notching the bottom of the frame and welding a piece of tubing, like your setup, but at the bottom of the frame. Then I just got some weld on hangers and attached them to the bottom of the frame and used stock shackles. Great to see some ingenuity on the board this week.:beer: :beer:


I am not going to touch this fawkin waggy spring/wb issue again:flipoff2:
 

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Oh yeah, almost forgot. The dshaft will pull apart. Mine has on each trip. Once I bash it too bad, I'll get some longer splines. Those springs flex great, and mine are the 7 leaf. Get ready for some droop.
 

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Looks good. Unfortunately there is no good reason to do a shackle reversal.:confused:
 

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you might think the front DS slip is ok, but it will either pull apart or over compress or both. In a hill climb the front axle will try to walk out and pull the shaft apart and prolly twist the splines at the end if yer on the gas.
When I did mine a few yrs back it looked fine, worked fine on the street and seemed ok on the ramp. As soon as I backed it off the trailer it pulled apart. Then going down hill the DS over compressed and cracked my 231 in half...... good luck!!

A side from that, looks good tho
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you might think the front DS slip is ok, but it will either pull apart or over compress or both. In a hill climb the front axle will try to walk out and pull the shaft apart and prolly twist the splines at the end if yer on the gas.
I measured very carefully to make sure that the T-case stays in tact. I have already tested it with some full throttle bouncing hillclimbs and the driveshaft stayed together. And I have been on the gas while being flexed out too.



Looks good. Unfortunately there is no good reason to do a shackle reversal.
1. I gained about 3" of clearance in the front (main reason for SRS)
2. I will no longer bend my springs
3. The axle travels away from impact instead of towards it

Great job. Spring hangers look good. Your garage flex tests may not get those springs/shackles on the frame but that will make for a rough ride off road. They will bottom out.
The spring I am using is almost flat at rest, so it is almost extended out as far as it will go in the picture, They do not hit the frame at full flex on the trail, I have checked. If the bushing wear and it does start to hit the frame it will be very minimal and would only happen upon extreme articulation.

Thanks for the compliments

Derek
 
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