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Shaft Adapters

1K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  Rockrat 
#1 ·
I brought this up awhile ago asking the interest in adapters for small flange zuk to the toy shaft. Well there done, will put any 4cyl 81-85 some 86 front toy cv on to your small flange zuk you could use thes On a toy too for those that dont want compatabilitie issues from different year shafts

pics and applications Shaft adapters
 
#4 ·
I’ve been wondering how I was going to solve that problem too.

It will be probably this time next year when I do the swap, but that’s another piece to the puzzle.
 
#6 ·
zuk88 said:
Could have used those 4 years ago:D cost me $400 to put a toy shaft in a zuk back then:mad:
Sorry I dragged my feet so long, you can alway sell your shaft at a profit ,buy these and still have money in your pocket:D
 
#10 ·
i had achance to buy this same style addapter the last two years at a swap meet in wa state the guy wanted like $100 bucks with a t-case kinda cool but when you can make a mod to the toy drive line and make it fit did not see any reason to buy it


:massey:
 
#12 ·
moto261 said:
i had achance to buy this same style addapter the last two years at a swap meet in wa state the guy wanted like $100 bucks with a t-case kinda cool but when you can make a mod to the toy drive line and make it fit did not see any reason to buy it


:massey:
Yep your right it will work if you have newer large flanges but if you have the small zuk flanges your kinda screwd, for those that are lookin for a bolt on and go this should fill the bill.:D
 
#13 ·
Just FYI, this has been done before.:D
 
#14 ·
Rockrat said:
Yep your right it will work if you have newer large flanges but if you have the small zuk flanges your kinda screwd, for those that are lookin for a bolt on and go this should fill the bill.:D
Would you like to expand who, where, and where are they now
 
#15 ·
Patent pending???????????????

Patent pending???????????

What the :flipoff2: some shops like my self do adapters all the time,,, hell all your trying to do is keep some one from knocking you off ,,, but It might work best if you charge a dissent price and make a good product... not saying your price is to high now or your parts don`t fit,,, but why would anyone need a patent on somethang so simple to design and make ,,, that and all it takes is one person to come forward and say "HA I DID THAT A YEAR AGO" and your SLO after spending over $10.000 for a patent

but I`d bet $10.00 that you never did turn in to get a patend on them ,,, but if you did please send me the application # so I can spend 5 min and do the 10% change to the part so I want have to worry about geting sued next time I make adapters for a custimer.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Originally posted by Rockrat
Would you like to expand who, where, and where are they now
Who- some guys not out to just make a buck
Where- Canada eh:D
They're still around too. Making shaft adapters.

I know that the small flange can be used on the pinion simply by redrilling it to the toy bolt pattern. Like this.


You've got me on the tcase flange though, the only way I know how to make that work is by using an 88 and up flange and drilling it to the same bolt pattern as the toy shaft's cv end. Apparantley some know how to make it work.



originally posted by moto261
i have a 1986 zuk and it has small flange and my toy drivelines fit to it just fine
Maybe he'll share some tech.:flipoff2:

From what I can tell Rockrat,
"So on these the holes are properly offset and studs are used both sides."
your design uses studs in the aluminum spacer. Kind of like a mini wheel spacer. I just don't know how strong that would be. Do you think that it's tough enough? Will the studs rip out? How thick are your spacers? Do you think some guys might have to shorten the toy shaft to make up for the thickness of the spacers? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm just looking for tech.:D
 
#19 ·
First off not out just to make a buck, second crtitasm is encouraged, and as I have stated before the t-case is the problem, and to another post I could care less who copied I was trying get something out before someone large may jump on a band wagon IF IT is a profitable idea and screw everyone.
Now the tech they are 1/2" thick so they should work without having to shorten the shaft, as far as strength MY opinion is if all bolts or studs depending on which you choose to run are all tight I dont beleive ther is a problem with them ripping out I have another set being mocked up in steel and am possably going to go that route just because the steel is cheaper to purchace aluminum is a little high right now. the inside bore for nut clearence 1.40 bore to center for shaft centering 1.808 nice snugg fit. pinion on a zuk ceterlin radius for small flanges 3.126 center ring on a zuk 1.772 toyota bolt cicle 3.340 sqaure
cv sidebolt circle diameter 3.575 rectangle on an 81-83:D
 
#20 ·
A steel adapter with studs sounds a little better. IMO, for now it may be more durable to just use a large fange on the tcase and a regular adapter.

This setup allows the use of regular bolts and you only have to find one large Zuke flange. It's just another option that I thought I should put out there.:D

Too bad moto isn't telling how he used his small tcase flange.:flipoff2:

Thanks for the specs though and give us an update on the steel adapters when you can.:D
 
#21 ·
alum?

I don`t think alum has the shear strength if your talking 2024 T4 or 6061 T6 types , But they would work out of 7075 T6 alum (20% more shear strenght that 1018 cold rolled )or try 12L14 steel it has about the same properties as mild steel but machines like butter.

at any rate have your machinest **ROLL form** the threads in them ,,, there about 30% stronger than normal cut threads.

it would be the cheapest to make a part like that on a CNC mill in two setups,, that way they can be made from 1/2 " flat stock and its a lot faster to saw than 4" round,,

Duffy
P.S. what up with not having any for a few weeks they only take about 6 min a part on my 20 horse power vertical machining center. but the bitch is having to flip them over in the vice half way thrue,,,, some times I get my hands dirty :flipoff2:
 
#23 ·
Rockrat said:
Im at the mercy of the machinest and Im lookin for a new one so I might get better pricing also also they are done in a cnc mill now
Rat, have you ran by the option of counter sinking the holes so that a bolt could be used? Although I would think 1/2" stock would give enough threads to be strong enough.

I don't know about everybody else but I've swapped to a yota cv in the rear and I had to round up a large flange and the only place I could find them was from Petroworks for $50 plus shipping then I had to pay to get it machined and drilled. So to just get the cv to bolt up to the tcase I think I was right around $80, so $40 is a pretty damn good deal in my eyes. Lucky enough I run yota axles so the other end was not a problem.
 
#24 ·
I have thought about it I was very leary of the strength at first So I have one bolted in between the yokes On my 4runner using bolts from both sides on the flange. Now my 4 runner is a v-6 and see and average of 160 miles a day so far no problem. You could if you wanted get 2 bolts and nuts through the case flange and adapter the way they are now the only prob on the old stlye small flange is the cv hole literrraly centers on the outside edge of the small flange my o2 not enough material to grab.
When i originally looked for flanges I could not find them and suzuki wants $65.00 a pc.
 
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