Sweet. Keeping the first couple of inches of the stock bowl allows you to not have to create boxes over the carrier bearing supports, which was somewhat of a pain in the ass to do (I cut mine flush with the axle tube and so had to box that area).
Yeah I was not wanting to do that.I was wanting to keep it as flat as possible with less ledges to go over if it hang's.I am going to radius the center part tomorrow night.Did not have time tonight.I put the center section in and the bearing caps cleared by about a 1/16 of a inch.
Here are a few more.I have been real busy lately but got to put some time in on it.I planned to have ot under the buggy this weekend but it did not happen.I still need to weld it on one side and a little more grinding and then weld it on the inside also.
very nice job. clearancing ours in a week or so, does everyone think its worth the additional work for the mohawk style? My buddy has the bottoms cut as close to the ring gear as possible and just flat bottoms, we measured and it has about an inch and half or two inches of more clearance than a stock 60 as his sits now, seems like the mohawk may get hung on stuff, wouldn't a nice flat bottom to slide on stuff be plenty consdering most rockwell guys are running 42" + meats and have more clearance then a d60?
I think a mohawk will be fine for not getting hung up.I made mine round.I have seen some where people block it off and I would worry about it hanging up.On the sides where I left it flat you can cut 3/4" of a inch above the housing and there will be barely enough room to clear the main caps holding the third member together.Post some pic's when you do your's so we can see it.I still need to do my rear.I am going to make it a little tighter on clearnces since it get's drug over everything most of the time.
They went away because I swtiched bank's and still have not switched my website over to the new bank for payment.I pay twice a year and I just have not bot around to it when I remmbered.I will get it switched in about 2 week's and have the pic's back.I would email but my computer got wiped out and the only place they are left is my site.I can go take another pic of it finished if you would like.
hey ripper, dont mean to hijack your thread, but i was thinking about rockwell brake setups and had some thoughts, but didnt wanna start a new thread.
so every one like to run a small diameter disk due make the brakes less grabby, right? but the prob with that is that they get hot real quick like. im guessing a lot of the people doing that are using power brakes or small bore wilwood type cylinders.
so if u used a large bore master cylinder with no assist, with a larger disk/caliper, then u would reduce the grabiness of the brakes (because the larger bore means less mechanical advantage over the hydraulic system), and the larger disk would take more to heat up. has this been done?
i hope it made sense the way i said it, im not very good at getting thoughts out of my head in a way that others understand
I don't really think you need to truss a rockwell.The housing's are almost square and a hair under a 1/2" thick.On the brake idea above I am not sure but Dan Dibble has changed his alot and experimented so I bet he could tell you what not to use for sure.I am using 87' mazda rotor's with 87' toy caliper's.I know a few people here that are using zuk calipers and rotors and are very happy with them.I heard dan have a few issues with the willwood stuff he used at first but he might just be more picky than some of us.
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