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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

First! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> United We Stand! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

ok...
I have been very impresed with the zukes differential clearence, even with only 31s on it the pumpkin clears stuff well. I had way more trouble with 33s on a D44. I'm about to weld on some skids to beef up the housing a little and was wondering if anyone has shaved the bottom? If so how much? I have a crappy rusted front housing im gonna cut up and try. But I figured if anyone has done it it would save some time.

I figured just shave it flat, or maybe slightly curved, weld on some 3/16" on the bottom and up the front a bit. I dont really need the drain plug as the 3rd member bolts go into the housing. Im thinking even a 1/2" would be a big gain.

Hmmmm maybe its time to start cutting.... Maybe a little grinding on the ring gear too! If/when I start ill be sure to snap a few pics...

Ideas? pictures?

-mike
 

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He is Only comparing clearance at the bottom of the differential...

You might go to All-Pro's site to see how they shave the Toy housings <IMG SRC="smilies/cool.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by bobaki:
<STRONG>the more width the less pumpkin clearance---?</STRONG>
exactly ! less width = better angles.

Ya my whole goal for this project is to use stock parts and just tweek them to get the most out of them. A lot of work....maybe... BUT im planning to weld on some skids so an extra hour or two of work could show a good gain....

I did some sketches at work today based on some pics I was about to find. I think it can be done with minimal effort. BUT any how ill try it out on my junk housing first to see how much effort it takes and if it will even hold... look for some pictures in about a month, im convinced i can do it. just need to find some time!!!! aggggg....

keep y'all posted!
 

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<font color="yellow">
These pictures are of <a href="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/index.html">project Trail Toy</a>, which is Chris Geiger's truck. (he's on of the All-Pro guys)

<a href="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/3598.jpg"><img src="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/3598s.jpg" border="2"></a>
<a href="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/3593.jpg"><img src="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/3593s.jpg" border="2"></a>
<a href="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/3603.jpg"><img src="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/3603s.jpg" border="2"></a>
<a href="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/3725.jpg"><img src="http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trailtoy/rearaxle/3725s.jpg" border="2"></a></font>

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: MasterYota ]
 

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that looks like a hell of a lot of work for like a quarter of an inch... <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 

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i have seen ford 9"s done and to really take advantage of added clearance you really have to point the pinion up pretty high because the ring where the hog head and the hog head itself are not modified. they will still hang down the same.
 

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Update?

What ever happened to this project?

Just curious if it was done and if it was worth the effort.

I'm trying to figure out the justification for doing this modification with a removable third member axle.

Unless you are runnig a double carden prop shaft and have the diff pointed at the t-case there is not really a good reason to do this mod, right?

It's a little stronger but otherwise?

Or am I missing something?

[email protected]
 

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I'm with 4rest on this one, Do it, then post the pics, oh yeah, and take some measurements you fack!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 

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Probably will

The reason I ask about this is because I am looking at doing something with the LJs instead of the other LWB as the next build up.

I know, I know, an LJ build up is not very "glamorous" or "kewel" but the more I think about it the more I like the idea.

Think about it, how many times have you gone to an event and really "dug" the old flat fender that was there. That is what an LJ is about - at least to me.

That plus I like things that are different. :D

So....

I figure that if I were to SPOA an LJ, use SJ-410 axles with the LJ 4.56 gears and then shave the axle - with 31" tires I'd probably have as much clearance under the diff as 33"s on a "normal" Sam axle. Maybe even more. But, if there is no reason for it... Looking at the LJ schematics, looks like that even with a SPOA the driveshaft angles will be very mild.

[email protected]

edit: Btw, driving a 410 axle with a 1.0 liter engine means the axle is mostly indestructable - plenty strong for the wheeling we have around here anyway.
 

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Update:

My origianal plan was to stick with a 31" tire and maximize what i had (ie stock axles)

I have since hopped on the toy swap band waggon and am mid streem on installing those.

I will still be shaving the toy axles when i install my 5.29 gears/spool/ lr / kongs etc...

Would I shave the stock zuke axles. YES !!! 100% But it depends on your susension setup. If you dont have the rear tiped up a little you can't shave much. BUT if the pinion is rolled enounh you can simply lop off a flat chunk with out messing with the chunk mounting flange (just like in the above toy chop pics) Based on my old axle set up I could easily gain an extra ~3/4"-1" I think thats worth the cut especially when you beef the cover as well.

To those with > 35" tires its not prolly worth it. But with a 31" any little bit helps. I don't need to tell you the crap a stock zuke can do, this just adds to that. And hell if you got the axle opened up to do somthing 2-3 hours with a welder and it can be done.

I evaluated my long term plans with my zuke and toys were in my future anyway...

Good luck.....
-yag


PS
Moose - Ive got some pics/drawings and a few measurments, its all fairly simple... but I dont want kastal to see em. :flipoff2: He can figure it out when he puts in his new locker(s).
 

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Ring-housing clearence seems to be very tigh, I think is too much work for a fraction of inch.
 
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