That works, but it's a pain in the ass if you're gonna do more than a couple. I plan on making a lot more than one set of links so the time I spent making that should be well worth it.I just use the live center against the back of the tap and a crescent wrench at least thats how I did my 1 1/4 control arms.
Not sure what you mean by a pain in the ass. All I do is power the lathe on and extend the the center as the tap sucks itself into the tube. Its cake. The wrench is only to keep the tap from spinning. Mind you its a gynormous lathe.That works, but it's a pain in the ass if you're gonna do more than a couple. I plan on making a lot more than one set of links so the time I spent making that should be well worth it.
Never seen such a thing before.You guys both need to make a floating tap / die holder.
The crescent wrench method is defiantly not OSHA approved and you are right. If something binds, its nice to have a fail safe, like the tap holder spinning in the chuck. I was building my links and had six 1-11/64 holes to drill. I went five inches deep, on the second hole the drill bit bound up and snapped. I still have a lot to learn and now try to make a habit not to over tighten my work piece in the lathe chuck when I'm using expensive tooling. I didn't feel like waiting another week for a bit so I welded the fugger back together, to my surprise it drilled the remaining four holes fine. Oh and not wanting to be to much of a troll here is a photo of my hand made ball peen sledge hammer.I know exactly what you're saying. I guess I shouldn't have said a pain in the ass, but it's still more work than simply shoving the tailstock into the work piece then standing back and waiting til it's done, then reversing the machine and standing back til it pushes it's way back out.
Also, I'm a little wary of big powerful machine tools. My lathe is big enough that I dont wanna chance having it throw a crescent wrench at me. If things bind up with this setup the adapter will probably spin in the chuck before anything bad happens.
How does that work??? the pieces you made replace the bearings and you take a depth reading to the top of the pinion and that will give you the distance from the top of the bar going across between the two bearing discs. Use that number to set up the new pinion???? thanks EDalso just made a pinion depth gauge for setting up some gears
bars are 22mm(0.87") round. bottom plate is 30mmx60mm (1.2"x2.36")plate and c part steel is 30mmx30mm(1.2"x1.2"). all mild steel. it did bend and deform lots but it did the job.I like that press arbor you made for pulling the inner c. Do you have a better pic? what materials did you use? looks like round stock
"You know I don't speak spanish... In English please!" :laughing:bars are 22mm round. bottom plate is 30mmx60mm plate and c part steel is 30mmx30mm. all mild steel. it did bend and deform lots but it did the job.