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Rattle can shaker:



Does a great job recovering old rattle cans that don`t rattle anymore... :smokin:
 

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Rattle can shaker:



Does a great job recovering old rattle cans that don`t rattle anymore... :smokin:
:laughing: Awesome overkill! Is there a clamp on the other side that holds the can? I can usually just tap the bottom sideways on something hard like the workbench or vise to make it start rattling again, but I like this mo better! :laughing:
 

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Harden them. Heat them cherry red hot and quench them in oil.
For A2? That's incorrect. The "A" means air quench. Crucible's trade name for AISI A2 is "AirKool".

Directly from the Crucible tool steel book:
Preheat: 1100-1250F, equalize 1350-1450, equalize
High heat*: for A2 is 1750-1800 F hold for 30-45 minutes.
Quench: Air, positive pressure vacuum to 150F
Temper: 400/1000F, hold 2 hours at temperature, air cool, temper twice

The as quenched hardness of A2 is around 64 HRC. Tempering at 400 drops it to around 61 HRC, while tempering at 1000 drops it down to 57 HRC. I'm not typing out the entire chart... :) The tempering temperature varies depending on what final hardness you want to end up with. Higher tempering temperatures yield a lower final hardness, but, as a general rule, a tougher part(less likely to break).

Three things to keep in mind when heat treating:
1. There will be a dimensional size change in the part, sometimes not enough to matter, but it will change.
2. The surface metal will decarburize, again, sometimes not enough to matter
3. Heat treating will also relieve stresses in the metal, so it may warp, bow, twist, etc. The opposite can also happen.

*This is the temperature needed to achieve the proper change in grain structure of the metal. If it isn't achieved and held long enough, the metal will not harden properly.

There is at least one company that produces temperature indicating "crayons". Basically, you mark the part with the "crayon", then start heating it up, when the "crayon" color disappears the part has reached that temperature. There is also a brush on liquid that works the same way.

Here's some info on AISI 1018 1018 properties If you're curious about the case hardening part on that page, google it. A search for "case hardening compound" will give you links to the chemicals.
 

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:laughing: Awesome overkill! Is there a clamp on the other side that holds the can? I can usually just tap the bottom sideways on something hard like the workbench or vise to make it start rattling again, but I like this mo better! :laughing:
There's a radius machined and a clamp on the back of the aluminium block on top.
This thing rattles crazy, i'll try and get a vid...
 

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Just a question, because i want to build one pretty soon: why do you need adjustable speed on a sander? Can't i just build it powerful enought that it doesn't slow down?
 

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My Craftsman oiless air compressor died on me. I had a gas powered contractors compressor that had a fussy Briggs and Scrap-iron engine that took 1/2 hour to start in cold weather. Mated the two together with a Harbor Freight 2 HP electric motor.



 

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Just a question, because i want to build one pretty soon: why do you need adjustable speed on a sander? Can't i just build it powerful enought that it doesn't slow down?
Slower speeds allow you to not over heat the part or to just remove a little bit of material at a time. The motor I am running on this sander is 2Hp and has no issues with bogging down.
 

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Hydro hose blew out on one of our turning centers. No good way to get to it the way it stopped (no way to bypass alarms and over ride it to where it was workable) without tearing lots of panels off.

I got creative.
 

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Started with some round stock:



Took a while to cut:



Machined a male die:





And a female:



Finished for testing:



Then i started building a press for them:





Almost finished, two gussets missing:



Results:

 
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