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I always like checking this thread for new stuff - so many great ideas.

For that tube-flaring jig.... looks like basically a fender washer on the inside clamped against an exhaust clamp... how exactly does it get the flare all the way around? Do you un-clamp and rotate the tube a time or 2 to work your way around? or is there some slick way to rotate the piece while still applying clamping pressure?
 

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Converted my HF porta-band to vertical. I kept waiting for it to die so I could justify a new Dewalt and the Swag setup, but after ~5 years it keeps working. Built with some angle iron and some scrap flat stock my buddy had in his shop.

I saw some other conversions that hung the saw from the top bolts where the handle is, but we didn't have enough square tube laying around to go that route. Works great so far.

 

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Converted my HF porta-band to vertical. I kept waiting for it to die so I could justify a new Dewalt and the Swag setup, but after ~5 years it keeps working. Built with some angle iron and some scrap flat stock my buddy had in his shop.

I saw some other conversions that hung the saw from the top bolts where the handle is, but we didn't have enough square tube laying around to go that route. Works great so far.

:smokin:
 

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Converted my HF porta-band to vertical. I kept waiting for it to die so I could justify a new Dewalt and the Swag setup, but after ~5 years it keeps working. Built with some angle iron and some scrap flat stock my buddy had in his shop.

I saw some other conversions that hung the saw from the top bolts where the handle is, but we didn't have enough square tube laying around to go that route. Works great so far.

how does it attach? It looks like it is wedged between the cut table and the small flat bar behind the handle... idk but its nice.
 

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What is going on with the first page of this thread?

I get this when going there.

Probably just a broken link or a link the non-stars see that is forcing advertising on ya.
 

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how does it attach? It looks like it is wedged between the cut table and the small flat bar behind the handle... idk but its nice.
I'll get some pics tonight. It bolts on with the 2 cover bolts on the left (each side of the blade), and a bolt through the handle on the right. The cutting table is bolted where the original guide plate attached.

For now I'm just using a clamp to hold it in place when I use it, but I might bolt it to my table. I don't have much room in my garage (not pictured) so having something I can easily get out of the way when needed is best for me.
 

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did this adapter for my air grinder.
right size bolt for angle grinder nuts and cutted bolt to fit my air grinder and tacked the bottom nut in place.
now i can use those worn out cut off wheels.
I've really wanted to do that for awhile now! the ones that are too small for the angle grinder anymore are about perfect size for the die grinder/muffler cut-off tool! :grinpimp:
 

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did this adapter for my air grinder.
right size bolt for angle grinder nuts and cutted bolt to fit my air grinder and tacked the bottom nut in place.
now i can use those worn out cut off wheels.
I've really wanted to do that for awhile now! the ones that are too small for the angle grinder anymore are about perfect size for the die grinder/muffler cut-off tool! :grinpimp:
Careful with the RPM's grinding disks a rated for a much slower speed.
 

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Nothing real fancy, but a quick tool I made the other day to hold a 2" diameter threading die. A buddy needed some hydraulic cylinder rod threaded for 7/8"-14 thread and was able to get a die locally, but didn't have a holder.






I used a scrap piece of 2 3/8" OD thick-wall pipe, and bored it out to 2" ID x 1/2" deep to fit the die and drilled and tapped for a couple 5/16" set screws that fit into the dimples on the die.

The handle is 1 1/2" x .120 wall DOM that I welded on.

It's an easy way to get the threads started nice and square. After turning the OD of the section you are trying to thread, cut a nice chamfer on the end. Place the die up against the end of the rod, and then use a suitable sized rod in the tailstock to push against the backside of the die. The tailstock should be locked down to the lathe bed.


Then just use the chuck wrench (stick the handle portion into the square holes in the chuck) to slowly turn the chuck with your left hand while using your right hand to slowly turn the tailstock feed wheel. This keeps pressure on the die as it threads itself onto the piece you are threading.

The handle on the die holder rests against the lathe ways and keeps the die from turning.



Once you get it threaded onto the die such that it is poking out the backside of the die, you can remove the tailstock. Alternatively, if you are threading smaller diameters, you can either use the nose of the tailstock chuck (opened sufficiently to allow the newly threaded portion to pass into the chuck) or substitute a tube for the solid rod that I used in the tailstock.
 
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