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Careful with the RPM's grinding disks a rated for a much slower speed.
That's true, however, since there's only a small part of the wheel left, it will see significantly less force trying to pull itself apart; less mass overall and less mass further away from the center.

Be careful anyhow.
 

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I always like checking this thread for new stuff - so many great ideas.

For that tube-flaring jig.... looks like basically a fender washer on the inside clamped against an exhaust clamp... how exactly does it get the flare all the way around? Do you un-clamp and rotate the tube a time or 2 to work your way around? or is there some slick way to rotate the piece while still applying clamping pressure?
That is correct. exhaust clamp with a 5/8 washer. You have to clamp release and clamp about 10 times. Takes all of one min to do a tube. I did make it so I can change out different size exhaust clamps for different size intake tubes.
 

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I built this 6' 6" pry bar some years ago, it's my go to tool if something very heavy has to move. When I was scrapping cars, I shifted a few small cars side to side on the trailer with this thing:

I built these tools for working on grain bins. The two punches are what I carry in my bags, and I slap a socket on the 1/2" drive on each punch, and that's what I use for backing up the bolts so they don't spin when the guy on the inside hits them with the impact wrench. The long skinny punch (nickname is prison shank) is 6" long and 5/16" in diameter, made from a heavy screwdriver shaft. The bigger heavier punch (nickname is peace pipe) is a standard alignment punch with a point ground on it. The grip on both is hockey tape. The bracket off to the side is a guide to help with dropping a bin top onto an already complete ring. The guide sits on top of the bottom ring, and the angled guide directs the upper section over the outside of the lower ring. I have about 10 of these brackets that we spread out as we lower the bin with the crane.

These are some ratcheting crowsfeet that I made from spare ratcheting combo wrenches. I started with these three, but I intend to make a whole set as I find cheap ratcheting wrenches in pawn shops.
 

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I got board today and started messing around with a spare Stanley rotator ratchet I had. I cut the plastic grip off, shortened it up, and welded a socket on the rotator shaft so that I can use it as a right angle socket drive. Here it is next to a standard rotator ratchet.
 

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Made up an axle seal installer using a big socket threaded rod and a washer from a strut on the other side.. works like a charm.. you can buy the actual tool but its like 60 bux this cost me like 5
 

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did this adapter for my air grinder.
right size bolt for angle grinder nuts and cutted bolt to fit my air grinder and tacked the bottom nut in place.
now i can use those worn out cut off wheels.
That is a great adaptation! I think I have an extra set of angle grinder nuts/washers that would work.

:beer:
 

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Today's tool project...ratchet driven die holder. I have an exhaust stud that I need to chase and there it no way a regular die holder will fit in there.

Started with a couple inch long piece of 1.25x.250 wall. Bored one end out to fit the common small die size which is about .980. Bored the other side out so I could sink in/center a $1 harbor freight 17mm socket, welded the socket it and drilled/tapped the side for a 10-32 set screw to lock down the die.

I can use it on a ratchet or chuck it up in my lathe using a 3/8-1/4 socket drive adaptor in the tailstock chuck
 

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Andrew, you know they sell those, right?

I figured they probably did but it gave me an excuse to play with my new lathe.....plus I can turn mine with a ratchet
 

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dang that ratchet driven die holder is rad. did you happen to make a 2nd one? .....
No but you could easily make one without a lathe. The dies I made it for are just under 1"od. You could use a piece of 1.25"x .120 Dom and internally sleeve it with 1" to create the step, just drill a hole in the 1.25 and plug weld the 1" in place..

another advantage I thought of vs the one "gozuk" posted is mine can thread over 2" deep but the production one looks like it is only good for maybe 3/4"

It is also now tested and proven, worked great for chasing the threads on the exhaust stud.
 
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