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I put this third membrer holder together about 5 years ago....



 

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I needed a "tumbler" for some bulk rifle and pistol brass, but didn't have the change to pick up one of the new ones that hold enough to do the job. Small rotary ones (typically for polishing rocks) don't hold enough and are worthless, so I built my own.

I took a small freon canister, pulled the valve to make sure it was not pressurized, then used a saber saw to cut a "door" in the side of the cannister. I tack welded a pair of steel hinges to one side of the door and an old tool box latch (the wire strap that snaps shut, holding the lid down) on the other side. I cut an old piece of rubber to cover the door, extending it just a tad larger than the cut out opening so that it doesn't leak the tumbling media.

I next cut off the handles to the cannister, and used the valve mounting spud as the bearing end of the tumbler. My particular canister had a round spud where the valve went into the can, so it was a natural bearing point. If your particular canister doesn't have this, it would be no big deal to puncture the can with a piece of round stock, welded in place.

The "frame" for this tumbler is made from 2 x 6 lumber. Cheap and simple, just screw it together in the appropriate size. I just drilled an upright to hold the spud, stuck in some grease and stuck the spud right into the wood. That suffices for a bearing in this case, but you could easily upgrade that part if need be.

On the opposite end (the bottom) I drilled, then filed a square hole the size of a bar-b-que rotisserie drive (I actually used an old one laying around for stock). And, yes, I used the rotisserie motor to direct-drive the drum. It works very well, and you can always find them at rummage sales for a buck or so if they burn out. I mounted the motor on an upright opposite of the one that holds up the top of the drum, allowing the rotisserie motor to support that end. It turns it perfectly.

For media, almost anything could be used depending on what you wanted to polish. For rusty nuts and bolts, a person could just throw in a small scoop of sand. For the brass, I used ground corn cob media, which is soft enough to not etch the brass, but it sure did polish it nicely. I added some "Brasso" polish to the media to make it work better and I got a great shine on some very dull brass. I guess you could throw in a bunch of BB's, sawdust (for gentle polishing) sand, glass beads, aluminum oxide, etc., for almost any polishing task.

I'll try to add a few pictures in the next couple of days. We're right in the middle of a move and when I unearth the tumbler, I'll get a shot posted.

My total cost for this project was under $10. I built this over 15 years ago and it has run all those years with no problems. I just grease the hole for the bearing spud once in a while, and I've had to replace one rotisserie motor over that time. Otherwise, it has performed flawlessly and it holds about 10 pounds of "stuff."
 

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A set of low profile torque adapters. In my aircraftin days, I used to have to torque the jamnuts on some bulkhead fittings that were in a real crowded area. I cut off a tappet wrench and the drive end of a bit driver and welded them together. Since I broke up the set of wrenches, I made a whole set of torque adapters out of them.
 

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Yota carrier bearing spanner

My son fabricated this carrier bearing spanner when installing a lock-rite, it worked well!
 

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this should be a sticky. Keep em comin!
 

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misterzee said:
My son fabricated this carrier bearing spanner when installing a lock-rite, it worked well!
I was in a bigger hurry. So I just welded two 1/4" threaded bolts to the side of the jaws on a large pair of channel locks. Works perfectly on toyota diffs. :)





The rest of these are a tool I made for use at work. Matco, Snap-On, Mac, everyone has recently begun selling a tool to pull down the front corntol arms on macpherson strut vehicles so that you don't need to use a big prybar or a ratchet strap and two guys to do it. They want $150-$200 for them, so I figured I'd build a copy and see how it worked.

This thing is great. Hook the little claw over the top of the A-arm, press down on the far end of the handle with your knee (sit on it, really) and it leaves both hands free to seperate/reinstall the balljoint stud into the control arm. I just need to make the claw about 2-3 inches longer.












And yes, I did weld a MATCO logo into the handle. :D
 

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I built this shop press that uses a 20 ton bottle jack.

 

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This thread needed a bump.
I have to remember to get some pics of my other stuff.



Transmission jack adapter from some scrap for positioning my drivetrain.


Need a better pic, built this engine hoist back in HS shop when steel was cheaper. The main beams are all 1/4 wall, 5" steel ball bearing casters on all 4 corners. The jack is starting to go south and leaking like a seive now after 14 years of use.
 

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Heres a link to my build thread...
What, are you gonna pull up every thread related to presses or home built tools and link your post??? Dumb ass!!!! :flipoff:
 

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Not my idea, but everyone at work (heavy equipment mechanic) has a cheater handle for wrenches, a 3x36x5/16" flat stock, with 2 pieces of angle iron welded to it, facing different directions, spaced 8" or so apart. Hook it over a wrench to loosen, or flip it around to tighten.
 

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Here is a couple of tool that Ihave made of many.






the first two are my way to move a vehicle around on cement it also worked great to sliding my dually rear end out to change it and the second shows how they stack. I picked up the wheels for .25 cents apiece looks like they were cut off of a floor jacks. the last picture is of a homemade press brake small but has come in handy many times.

My tractor bucket extension and in the back ground my homemade gantry bothe have been in valuable and the 12 ton press all made from left over material.

 
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