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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The back story:
I am building this rig for "johnnc". John first brought the sidekick to me last summer to build him a cage, at that point his plan was a cheap Rhino substitute/mild trail rig. He had already installed a suspension/body lift and some 31's and done some other stuff like bumpers and sliders. That setup served him well for a little while until he started doing some runs with a local club, after that he was back for a rear locker and t-case gears. John's big mistake was going to KOH with me and riding around in my buggy all weekend:grinpimp:, we had already been talking about doing an SAS but after that trip he told me "I want to go big"...so going big is what we are doing. John has become a friend and he will be helping me with the build so we can get it done in time for Tinbenders jambo in October. So far he has become well acquainted with the grinder and done a little of notching but he is eager to learn and will eventually take part in all aspects of the build.

The Parts:
-Toyota axles with all the good stuff
-39.5" irocks/Mayhem Metal Works weld on beadlocks
-2wd trans/built Sami t-case (6.4's, front output, twisted shifter, bucket)
-Prototype Mayhem Metal Works front and rear link suspension system
-14" sway-a-way coilovers front and rear
-Suspension seats/harnesses
-Lots of tube

The Plan:
Chop the shit out of it and replace most of the body with tube. I guess it will end up somewhere between a truggy and firewall buggy. We will be keeping the hood, windshield frame, upper sheetmetal, targa bar, firewall, and floorboards to the back of the rear seat. We will also be keeping the cage and rear seat. Everything else is gone and will be tubed out. The wheelbase is getting stretched to 105-107" and we are tying for a crew cab truck look so it will be getting a "bed" added to the back as part of the tube work.

The suspension will be a double triangulated 4 link in the rear and a three link/panhard in the front, all mounted to a mini version of my Toyota link suspension subframe/skid plate.

We are doing what we can to keep it low, It will have around a 21' frame height, 18" belly, and we dropped the body 1/2" from stock.

The Build:
I like telling stories with pictures so here it goes.

Pic#1 How it looked before we tore into it

Pic#2 Half way through day #1

Pic#3 End of day #1

Pic#4 Sheet metal cut off
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Made some progress putting stuff back together

Pic#1 and 2 We had cut a foot or so off the rear or the frame so I cleaned it up and capped it with a tube. the rest of the rear tube work will mount off this cross tube

Pic#3 and 4 I Built and started installing some heavy duty sliders, 1.75" DOM internally sleeved with 1.5" to help keep them from denting. These will be the base for the tube work along the sides of the rig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good start. I whish I would have boat sided mine a bit more like this.
These things are actually pretty wide, I tucked the main slider tube in as far as I could while still maintaining room for the seats. My goal was to get that bottom corner of the body tucked up high and narrow while still having the body protection and step that the slider provides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'd have given you both of my Trackers for that clean body.
Good luck with the build, be nice to see where it lands.
It had a dent so we had to cut it off:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sawsall, body saw, cut off wheel, flapper discs, we used them all. It got so bad, the local metal scrappers were circling the neighborhood waiting for the next big chunk to hit the ground.
You forgot the plasma cutter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Its going to look like this but with a lot more tube.
 

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Replace the stock motor mounts before you get too deep. I just ripped mine all to shit this past weekend. 4 trips of serious tight jammed wheeling. They are almost as thick as the sheet metal. I pulled all three bolts through the mount on the driver side.

I didn't think a 1.6 could be all that bad. Never had issues in my 22re. Now I have to take all kinds of shit off to get in there and make new mounts.
 

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Replace the stock motor mounts before you get too deep. I just ripped mine all to shit this past weekend. 4 trips of serious tight jammed wheeling. They are almost as thick as the sheet metal. I pulled all three bolts through the mount on the driver side.

I didn't think a 1.6 could be all that bad. Never had issues in my 22re. Now I have to take all kinds of shit off to get in there and make new mounts.
Thanks for the tip dcastell. We were actually talking about that over the weekend. I appreciate it.
 

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107 Posts
Replace the stock motor mounts before you get too deep. I just ripped mine all to shit this past weekend. 4 trips of serious tight jammed wheeling. They are almost as thick as the sheet metal. I pulled all three bolts through the mount on the driver side.

I didn't think a 1.6 could be all that bad. Never had issues in my 22re. Now I have to take all kinds of shit off to get in there and make new mounts.
dcastell - Can you provide some specifics regarding the breakage? Where did the mounts break? You pulled the bolts through the top of the mount on the driver's side? Any pics?

thanks in advance,

John
 
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