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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
I am going to go to DMV tomorrow and get my tags before I get in trouble for no plates. I did take it on a little longer test drive today, and everything went well. I surprised my son and picked him up from school today in. I had him take some video of the ride home. The square drive shaft has no vibrations at all, so far.


Stretched cj2a Willis: Stretched cj2a Willis - YouTube
 

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I am going to go to DMV tomorrow and get my tags before I get in trouble for no plates. I did take it on a little longer test drive today, and everything went well. I surprised my son and picked him up from school today in. I had him take some video of the ride home. The square drive shaft has no vibrations at all, so far.





Stretched cj2a Willis: Stretched cj2a Willis - YouTube

Totally cool. The joy on your boys face and voice is fantastic. Not to mention the scenery.


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Discussion Starter · #343 · (Edited)
I have not had time to start the tube fenders, but I did make an extension bracket for the stock fenders.





I also got a baby fan from summit. It is a 13" reverse rotation fan with a 1.75" spacer. It is small but it feels like it moves a lot of air. I know I still need to make a shroud.



Here is the ammo can rocker switch console. It has the fuse block and ten 30 amp relays mounted in the bottom of the ammo can. I also made a locking lid for the ammo can too. The toggle on the outside of the can is for the dome light.

 

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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
Outside shot

 

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Discussion Starter · #346 ·
Very nice! How does it feel to be on the road?
It feels great, to be able to drive it. I am still trying to get the brakes a little better. Last night I was able to get the rears to lock up, now I need to get the fronts to lock up. Today I will play with the rear pressure reducer and see if I can get the fronts to lock up.

Info for anyone who puts the Cadillac Eldorado prarking brake disc calipers on their build, you must unbolt the calipers to bleed them. It takes a lot of time to get the air out of the caliper and reverse pressure bleeeding will not help http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-31046.pdf . I held the caliper on the bottom of the disc, with the bleed port up, and then had my son press the brake pedal. I think I will still do it again after a littile driving, to see if anymore air bubbles break free. I think I got all the air out, but it will not hurt to check. I also changed my brake light pressure switch from being mounted vertical on top, to horizontal on its side. I think vertically it was holding an air pocket.
 

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In the factory application weren't the calipers mounted on the bottom of the disc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #348 ·
In the factory application weren't the calipers mounted on the bottom of the disc?
I'm not for sure, but that would make sense.

I had a few hours this morning and I prepared and painted the windshield frame. I took the windshield out, because I had a some rust around the bottom of the gasket. I had to replace about a 7" strip of metal and the rest of it was in good shape.

I started to weld up the hole in the hood, but I did not like the idea of using body filler on the the hood. I would have had to weld and fill the whole hood seam. The hood is just to flexible. I do not want to invest that much time in it and the have the filler crack. I did order a 10" black air cleaner, and I will just cut the hole to accommodate the air cleaner. The air cleaner should sit about flush with the hood. I can then look for a low profile hood scoop or new hood later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #349 ·
I went to pick and pull today, ang found a 1310 cv drive shaft and a 26 spline cv yoke for my dana 300. The cv yoke was from the front side of a 1997 wrangler np231. I had to remove the dust cover to get it to fit, on the 300. All the 1310 cv drive shafts where to short or bent. I decided to take a short one and attempt to lengthen it. I took the drive shaft from the front of a 2004? Grand Cherokee. It was about 4-6" to short. The od tube was 1.75", I was hoping the thickness of the tube would be .120", but when I got home, I found out that it was .095". This made it a little bit more of a pain in the ass. I had to turn down the tube inserts on my lathe to 1.505", to get it to fit in the .120 wall 1.75" dom. I then tried to straighten the tube and the inserts, the best I could on my short lathe, before welding it. I will post some pics later.

I called the only local driveshaft shop blue iron, and they did not want anything to do with lengthening the drive shaft. He also said it would not work. I hope it runs good just so I can go by and show him!
 

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It will work. When I weld them up (if you cant get the whole shaft in your lathe) I set them on a straight surface and measure the gap between the surface and the tube right at the weld joint. Flip 180 and measure again. Keep this up until you get it centered then tack and do it again for the other plane. I've had some help making a few on lathes before too and that is even better.
 

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If your lathe bed is not long enough... do you have a floor standing drill press?
make up a collar to support a center in the floor base of your drill press and turn a piece of 1/2" to a point and mount it in the chuck, then you can spin the driveshaft between centers and dial in the runout...
 

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Straight is one thing, balanced is another.

I would just find a shop that will re-tube it and balance it. I have made a few shafts by cutting/rolling/clamping/in a lathe/ or whatever but the balanced shafts always ran better.....especially with higher shaft speeds deep axle gears cause.

If your desperate. You can install the shaft in the vehicle unwelded and stick a dial indicator from the frame to the driveshaft. You can spin the shaft enough to get it pretty darn staright....tack, check, tack, check...then pull it out to final weld it. Having a decent press fit between the parts can help hold it all together while you tap things around to get them running true.
 

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Straight is one thing, balanced is another.

I would just find a shop that will re-tube it and balance it. I have made a few shafts by cutting/rolling/clamping/in a lathe/ or whatever but the balanced shafts always ran better.....especially with higher shaft speeds deep axle gears cause.

If your desperate. You can install the shaft in the vehicle unwelded and stick a dial indicator from the frame to the driveshaft. You can spin the shaft enough to get it pretty darn staright....tack, check, tack, check...then pull it out to final weld it. Having a decent press fit between the parts can help hold it all together while you tap things around to get them running true.
I have honestly never balanced a shaft. my rears have all been so short that it probably didn't matter, and the fronts, I just unlock the hubs. But I guess I have always run swampers, so I am not sure how I would have ever noticed a vibration...
 

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How well are the cadillac style parking brakes working for you? I may need to do something similar soon. I like your lever arm thingamajig for the cables and was planning something like that as well (toyota pickups run something similar).

Which cables did you run to the Ebrake? I was thinking stock eldorado ones, cut to length? Rockauto has them on clearance right now as well.

Your switch box turned out nice too, I like it.
 

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I have honestly never balanced a shaft. my rears have all been so short that it probably didn't matter, and the fronts, I just unlock the hubs. But I guess I have always run swampers, so I am not sure how I would have ever noticed a vibration...
I agree for the most part. Till you start doing hours and hours on the highway you probably wouldn't notice ( and who does THAT in a flat fender :shaking:) I still have a homemade front cut up and welded front shaft. I also made one for the rear ( 18.5" or so ) but noticed some buzz/vibes about 50mph. I swapped it out for a Tom Woods $200 1310 shaft and the vibes went away. I kept the old shaft for a trail spare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #356 · (Edited)
I got the drive shaft finished, but then I had to take a break from working on the willys today to become a Grandpa!!! My daughter and her husband had a son today. His name is Jacob and he is 6lbs 9.8oz. I am a grandpa this month, and next month I turn 40. For those who are doing the math, my daughter is 22.

 

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Discussion Starter · #357 ·
The drive shaft turned out great as far as I can tell. I drove at 50mph today with no noticeable vibration. Hearing is not an option with driving at 50 mph and no windshield.

First off I cut the shaft in half



Then I spun the shaft on my chopsaw, to cut the welds. After I cut it, I use the vise and a pipe wrench to remove the tube.



Then I realized I needed .095 tube instead of .120




I chucked it up in my lathe and gave the journals a trim.



Once I had it straight again, I welded it up and hoped for the best.



I then mounted it up, and was very happy that it fit.



There is currently no vibrations on the floor or gear shifter, at 50 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #358 ·
How well are the cadillac style parking brakes working for you? I may need to do something similar soon. I like your lever arm thingamajig for the cables and was planning something like that as well (toyota pickups run something similar).

Which cables did you run to the Ebrake? I was thinking stock eldorado ones, cut to length? Rockauto has them on clearance right now as well.

Your switch box turned out nice too, I like it.
The calipers are working great, now that I got the air out of them. The parking brake part, I still need to work on. If you use a brake lever with mechanical advantage it would probably work great, but the stock brake handle is hard to pull currently. I may ditch the stock handle and go with 2 floor mounted hand brakes. This would give me cutting brakes. I will figure that out later.
 

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Congratulation on becoming a Grandfather, the greatest job in the world.
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Discussion Starter · #360 · (Edited)
I was able to get my tags today, so my rig is legal to be on the road. I did a safety check of all the steering and suspension. I made a few changes to the suspension and hooked up a horn. Then my boy and I headed out. We drove to the next town about 10 miles down the highway at 60 mph, and it handled great. We stopped to show it off to a few friends, and then we went to get something to eat. It was hard to believe how much attention this rig was getting from total strangers, from high school kids all the way up to 80ish year old men. Tomorrow we are going to drive up to the town that I work in, it's about 20 miles up the highway.

I still need to spray the windshield frame with a final coat of paint, so I can put the glass back in it and mount it. I also need to cut the hole in my hood and spray the hood with the first coat. My engine is perfectly centered with the hood, according to the air cleaner stud. I wish I did not have the existing hole in the hood. However, the 10" air cleaner will get rid of it. I may put a scoop on the hood later or get a new hood with a low profile plenum. Will see how it turns out.



 
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