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Discussion Starter #162 (Edited)
Just curious, why all the reflective tape on the fuel cell, I don't see any heat source nearby ?
I don’t have any pics, but the exhaust runs under the passenger side of it. Muffler is right under it, better safe than sorry. I have steel-it on the cell and i think that helps reflect some heat too.
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Still haven’t figured out a rear bumper yet.

Been checking small things off the list this week.

Overkill fuel cell breather


Extra juice storage, tools, spare parts.


These boxes and little center tray can all be accessed through the back without lifting up the spare.


I added another tab on the left side so the pin won’t wiggle out and it’s double shear. Not that it needs to be.






And a little more testing of the new rear end. Feels pretty good for leafs. The leafs max out as the shock reaches full compression. Haven’t put in bumps yet but I think I should.


I also trimmed off the tube that hangs below the transmission crossmember. It was getting dragged on everything so I cut it and called it off and gained about an inch.

Copilot


 

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I'd go 3/16 on that heavy pig. My last set years ago was 2x2 legs with 2x4 square for the slider and I liked them a lot more than round.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
I'd go 3/16 on that heavy pig. My last set years ago was 2x2 legs with 2x4 square for the slider and I liked them a lot more than round.
I think I’ll do that. I don’t see anyone makes them out of thinner than 3/16. Some people are doing 1/4” but that now too heavy for me. I think I’ll also cut off the plates I have welded to my frame and do them different. They flex like crazy. I should’ve made them taller
 

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I kept mine out a bit from the cab to help protect it a little more as well. As low as you are I think it might help you pivot off that more than using your door ;)

 

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Here is a method I implemented on my old 4runner. I'll also echo the thicker wall tubing as well. Mine was 0.188" 3"x3" box tubing that was grafted into the place of the old rocker. These were also tied to the frame with fish plates as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
All I got done tonight was pickup the square tube and clean off the frame. Decided to start from scratch with bare frame instead of welding to my existing plates. These fuckers need to be strong.

So I cut off the plates, wire brushed off all the undercoating, cut through any surface rust and existing undercoat with a thick grinding disc, then flap disc it all smooth and clean. Takes a few hours and it’s nasty work, so I’m glad thats done.


 

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Make your plates as tall as the frame or just slightly shy. Don’t worry about getting a weld on the top of the plate, 3 sides will be plenty. You get t he strength from the height of the plate as you figured out and a short plate will eventually can opener your frame. The sliders on my 6,000lb 4Runner are 1/4 wall 2x3 and barely move when I land HARD on them. I’d say 3/16 would be perfect for your rig
 

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Discussion Starter #177 (Edited)




Still thinking of adding a tube into the kickout to prevent it from bending up. But it’s pretty solid now. And there’s nothing locally here that I could bend them on lol.

5x tubes to the frame, and 6x tubes from the square to the round. Put 40” of plates on each side, and each leg has a 1/4” plate on it. Fuckers should be pretty solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #179 (Edited)
Devising a new fuel filler. I know it’s ugly. But it’s also strong, safe and free :D

It’s off a tour bus. I have about 20 of them.






Just need to weld the tube on the back of it, get a piece of hose, make a couple small bits to make it all work, and mount the filler. Maybe add some speed holes for style points. The flush filler I
have is annoying. And terrible for snow.

Also got a slip tank for free that came with a cool old nozzle. Cleaned it up a bit and it turned out pretty cool.
 
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