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Sitting On All Fours(!)

15034 Views 71 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Greg Davis
Finally got the front coilovers mounted on Friday. It is a little tall in front, but I have the adjusters threaded down so the coils won't unseat at full droop. I have 6" tender coils and sliders coming so I will be able to drop the front down 3" - 4" to make it sit level.

I still have to fab the cross-bar between the hoops and mount the rad resevoir, the steering fluid resevoir, and a few other bits under the hood that had to be moved to make room for the hoops.

Plus, I'll have to make some cuts in the hood for the hoops to poke through. But hey, everytime I remove sheet-metal, it gets a little lighter!:grinpimp:

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Thank you sir!

You wouldn't happen to have a stock D2 pitman arm would you?
Are you sure you have enough body to tyre clearance once you articulate those axles?
Assuming there is no sarcasm and you are serious, it's trimmed so that sitting on the bump stops, it has about 2" - 3" of clearance around the tires. I've actually set it up to be able to run 42" tires if I ever decide to lose my mind and go bigger.:shaking:
Rears are 14" travel with 16" 200# & 14" 175#. Fronts are 16" travel with 16" 300# & 14" 200# w/ triple-rates coming so I can raise the adjusters to drop the front. I have some additional rates and lengths at home so I can play with them if the ride is not correct, but so far everything seems like it is OK.

What rates and travel are you running?
rear are 14" 225/250 with a 35lbs 3" round (soon to be flat) tender...2.5" FOA

Front is 14" 250/300, no tender...2.0" Bling's
Sounds like our rates are pretty close - plus I think you haul alot more gear than I do.

How I took it was that with the rear axle sitting on both bumpstops there is 2-3'' of tyre clearance.If that is correct, and based on experience with my own truck, the tyre on the compressed side during articulation can rise 6-8'' higher, and the bottom photo of Gregs truck indicates insufficient clearance for that to happen.
To check clearances when building vehicles, I've found it useful to make a hoisting bracket that attaches to the wheel studs, so that you can articulate the suspension in the workshop by means of a chain hoist hanging from a roof beam.
I articulated it the best I could in my garage with what I had - I guess I'll find out this spring (or hopefully sooner).

You're welcome, and, of course I do!

I lost your address though when I got my new phone, lemme look at my old phone to see if I still have your address.
Sent you a PM.
Thanks John. To be honest, for some reason I thought you had left Charlotte. Gimme a yell sometime. 704-577-0532.
Bad ass D2 :smokin:
Thanks! - If I cn ever finish the damn thing.:shaking:
Now we need a YouTube .
Amazing, love it
All in due time my friend! :grinpimp: There's still ALOT of finish work and little nit-picky things to do. But it gets closer each time I work on it.
Think you will have that ready for Safari in the spring, would love to see that in person if you where planning on attending.
That is a nice goal to set - of course, I've said that for the last three years!!!

But in all honesty, this thing is moving at a pace that may actually make that a reality. I've made a dedicated schedule for working on it and so far it has gone according to plan, so there may be hope yet!
Well, I didn't get as much done as I had hoped (does anyone EVER?), but I did get a lot of little nagging things cleaned up. Just think of having to take everything off of your wheel wells (since they are gone) and relocating everything(!).

Here's the front fully extended so I could remove my coilovers and install the tender coils. I was able to lower the front 4", so now it sits just right (for some reason that picture didn't show up!).

Neatened up the D/S wheel well by getting the P/S resevoir relocated as well as re-routing some wires, and relocated a vacuum canister.

And on the P/S I relocated the coolant resevoir, relocated the wiring harness behind the fuse box, and mounted some wierd vacuum operated thing just in front of the firewall out of the way, along with some other odd contraption (don't you just LOVE all this technical jargon?:flipoff2:) that I have NO idea what it does.

I got the tubing bent and cut for the cross-bar to go between the hoops, but ran out of time.

All that is left under the hood is to mount the washer fluid bottle, finish making the crossbar, re-run my AC lines, mount the new PS pump, re-route my intake hose and MAF (again!) because of the shock hoop, and clearance the hood for the hoops to poke through.

Then I will focus on installing shorter main springs and tender coils on the rear coilovers so I can have some adjustability, and then I'll work on the rear tin work (wheel wells, bulkhead behind the seats, battery box cover, etc.

It's finally getting there!:grinpimp:
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Try this thread. Unfortunately, a few years ago MontyPics' server crashed and I lost alot of the photo links. If I can ever find the disc with the photos, I'll try and rebuild the thread.

And thanks for the compliments.


Check out the date the thread was started(!).
The vacuum operated thingie is part of the SAI system (until KC decides to disagree with me)
You didn't say anything wrong or stupid, so your fine on this one. :flipoff2:
Let's play nice now!:evil:
Here are a few more updated photos.

Adjusted the front coilovers once more - lowered it another inch. I now have about 4" between housing and bumpstops, and another 2"-3" of compression in the bumpstops themselves.

Finally got the hood trimmed and cleaned up to allow it to close. All told, it took about 5 hours of trimming to get it right(!). Trim a little, lower the hood, see a new area that hits........repeat about twelve times and then completely close the hood!

Here's the cutout from below - you can see where I had to deal with the reinforcing ribs as well.

Here's a head-on view with the hood closed. The protrusion wasn't as bad as I had feared. I was afraid that it would look too "hacked up", but I think it turned out pretty well with all things considered.

View from the passenger's side.

And, after four years(!), I finally have one of my own bumpers back on my rig!

And, if I can figure out how to get the video off of my phone, I'll let you hear how it sounds now.:D
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Need to install my PSC pump so I can run my lines to my hydro boost before I can play around with it. Hopefully within the next few weeks (fingers crossed).:smokin:
AGROVER, you were riight! I cycled the suspension today and I have a lot of trimming left to do!!!

I'll post a pic later tonight. I'm 6'4" and the end of the front bumper was eye-level with me. It could have gone higher, but the front tire was crammed into the fender, as was the opposite rear tire.

Idid get my ram-assist sorted out and mounted though.
Here it is in a poser flex shot. Front bumpstop is about 2" from touching and rear was about 1" from touching, but I couldn't go any higher because of tire to fender contact.

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Thanks guys - I appreciate the kind words.

Now, I'm off to trim so sheet metal!:shaking:
Looks pretty capable to me! Trust me, if I had it to do all over again, I would chose a completely different path.:p
is that FATMANS FABRICATIONS in Mint Hill, NC? buddie is having a lt1 put in a cruiser there right now! Cool place!

regards, Im in stevens mill area.

Sure is. I was checking his Cruiser out the other day! It's a solid looking rig.:)

I live off of Stevens Mill in Shannamara.
FYI...I figured out how to provide a VSS signal for the ecu's so the transmission shifts properly without input from the SLABS. This eliminates the need for wheel speed sensors and bypasses the ABS system. I used a GPS speedo module from Intellitronix
It supplies the ECU the proper pulse per mile signal (8000 pmm) that the ECU is looking for input as road speed. Use the Pink/Green (K/G) wire on connector C0504 pin 3 (It's the black connector on the slabs unit). Cut the wire, splice a connector on and feed the output of the speedo to the this wire, (Don't feed back to the connector) This will feed the rest of the systems looking for a VSS feed (Road speed) signal.

Works great, I have a accurate speedo and the transmission shifts properly...
Thanks Frank! Much appreciated. How was your trans working before this mod?
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