At the moment the plan is to:
Clean her up, frame is in very good shape. The cab however will require some work on the floors(minor compared to others I looked at) as well as small rust spots in various places. The fuel tank is even in good shape!
Build a new aluminum bed for it and make it a dump bed.
Do YJ spring conversion with Yota axles on 35" tires.
Swap in a VW TDI, I am still on the fence about mating it to a samurai 5sp or moving up to a toyota transmission.
Here is a picture of similar look/size I am going for.
Would be easier to buy a toyota pickup. SJ410's are good at what they do because they're light, nimble and narrow. I'm no purist, but I've tried to keep my car good at the things it was good at. It's also too heavy and too big but it has nothing as heavy as toyota axles or a diesel in it. You can still have whatever tire size you want and build a light car that maximises what the car was good at in the first place. The less said about that master forest garbage the better.
Well I am still not 100% sure on the diesel I may just go a 1.6L 16V. However I feel with the dump bed and larger tires I will need to upgrade the axles. It will still be pretty light I feel but yes not as light and nimble as the stock but again not as big as a yota either.
I am building a small nimble Suzuki though.. it is a LJ80 that is going to use Hybrid axles(custom housing to match LJ centred diff and width but will have samurai carrier with tracker R&P for strength and gearing/locker options) will be running 33"s and will use the 1L from this truck to put into it to give it a bit more power than its current 800cc engine.
Haha well it definitely isn't going to V8, I still want to keep it somewhat light weight.
The LJ80V is getting the F10A(1L Engine) with possibly a turbo, and hybrid diffs. That is staying a true Suzuki and being very light weight and nimble.
The SJ410K though is still up in the air, I just picked it up on Sunday and mind is going crazy with ideas lol. Right now I am just committed to what I call phase 1 and that is: Restore and Paint the Cab, reinforce the frame and build an aluminum dump bed. Put in some OME lift springs and roll around on 31"s. Likely will stay like that for a few years until the LJ is 100% completed.. by then I hopefully will have a more solid plan of what I want from it.
That's a cool thread, but I just don't understand the appeal of the G13B. They're a pain to fit and are way down on torque compared to the G16B. Sure, they make induction noises and rev, but they're not an off road motor.
As with many other things people do, rational decision making is rarely a reality. It's a motor I've wanted to put in one of my Zuks (should be reason enough ).
Also, with current legistlation in Finland, G16B is no-go if you want to stay road legal. Even the G13B makes too much power that you could have it engineered, but my pickup has been engineered in the 90's (only engine cc's on paper) and made this swap possible for me.
I know few guys who have been running the GTi engine and based on their experience I was confident that it's good for the stuff I'm usually driving.
Yeah see I have a Suzuki LJ80, it came stock with the F8A engine(797cc) however I plan on using this engine the F10A(970cc) to swap into my LJ and don't plan on going higher than that for the LJ due to certain trails limiting size, weight and displacement of the vehicles that are on their trails.
With this SJ410 build there really is no limit since in Canada we do not have regulations like that so I am definitely looking into the G16B or even the 2.3L also the VW TDI diesel is also an option. However I it will likely take me a few years before I get to that point.. Right now main focus is to build a dump box, reinforce the rear frame for the dump box, clean up the cab and get it on the road.. likely will run OME lift springs and 31" tires. Keep it like that until my LJ build it completed then take this back under the knife for new engine, drivetrain and 3/4link with coil overs and yota axles.
the g13b was a popular swap back in the day here on the west coast for running the mud and snow guys usually swapped for a mazda distributer to help with clearance at the fire wall. now a days it wont be that hard to make some thing to take the place of the distributor that put out a crank signal for a coil pack. torquer cams were available to give you a marginal torque increase but that hurt your redline. there was also rod and crank kits to boost your redline above 10k
G13B swaps are popular locally because there's a misconception they don't require engineering approval. Also, for some reason people can't be swayed that the DOHC engine must be better than the SOHC engine regardless that it wasn't designed for a 4WD application. Also has the triumvirate of AFM/distributor/custom exhaust manifold PITA. I rate the G13B the hardest G engine to fit to a Samurai as well as being the second worst G engine to put in a Samurai after a G16A, but the kiddies think it's the easiest because it doesn't require a $100 adapter.
Had to check wikipedia the fancy word, because I'm not native speaker. 😁
A triumvirate (Latin: triumvirātus) is a political regime ruled or dominated by three powerful individuals. In the context of the Soviet Union and Russia, the term troika (Russian for "group of three") is used for "triumvirate"
Yes, you are bang on about the major difficulties regarding the swap.
In the end they are only difficulties and can be worked around.
I'm running stock GTI efi with Mazda cap and don't really see an issue with it aside from the AFM being very sensitive of leaks and junk .
AFM and dizzy can be deleted with aftermarket engine management, this also enables you to compensate to some extent the natural lack of low end torque with ignition timing around idle rpms. If one were to add an stepper IAC, you can end up with an engine which simply refuses to stall.
I opted to get the cheapest stainless ebay G13A exhaust and had the G13B flange cut out for me. Then I just tigged the new flange to chinesium.
Only thing I haven't really solved properly is the routing of the upoer radiator hose, which comes from the back of the head.
Now correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't G16 require also fabrication of engine mounts?
Basically, no. The RHS mount needs to move rearwards 20mm, which can be done very easily with a piece of flat steel bar and a drill. It's a pretty basic fabrication job. Of course the issues with the G13B swap can be overcome - almost anything is possible, but the G13B requires more work to fit than most other G engines, which is the story nobody tells - the standard line is "it bolts in" which isn't remotely true. It bolts to the engine mounts and bellhousing. Everything else is a hassle. Very, very few conversions I've heard of in Australia run aftermarket management, and even fewer delete the distributor. Mostly because Suzuki owners are cheap. If you're fitting a G13B because you've been convinced "bolts in" you're not deleting the distributor and running aftermarket management. If you had that budget locally you'd fit a better engine.
As for the rear mounted thermostat housing, G engines have quirky coolant flow and work much better setup that way. In fact, I've converted my Tracker G16B to have a rear thermostat housing using suzuki Baleno parts. In my case it was for packaging reasons (shock mount interfered with the front mounted thermostat housing) but I'm also satisfied it will improve cylinder head cooling.
The carb has been rebuilt and I fired it up today.. definitely needs some tuning and adjustments but its running from a jerry can. I also started to design a Scissor/Dump bed for it as well.
Purchase some new LED tail lights and requested a bead roller from the wife as a birthday gift so I can fix up the various sheet metal on it. It will likely be a slow project but will do my best to keep this post updated with progress.
A forum community dedicated to custom off-road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about trail reports, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, fabrication, drivetrain, and more!