Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I've finally got my project truck on the road after almost 2 years of building and it has a really sketch amount of body roll on corners. Coming out of the corner and the truck does not level back off on its own, I need to wiggle the wheel back and forth to flatten it out. When heading down the road and making minor steering corrections it sways side to side similar to a boat. back story is I got the truck as a roller with a trail gear sas already installed and a rear 4 link on 12" ori shocks. The truck came with 4"hd springs and I traded them off for some 3" trail gear springs. The 3" springs came with a leaf removed from the previous owner. I have a vw 1.9 turbo diesel in it that weighs roughly 300lbs, im also running a big steel bumper and a winch.

I feel like the sway and lean is coming from the front end. Could that missing leaf be contributing factor? would the missing leaf cause it to stay leaning after a corner or is that more attributed to a rear 4 link setup? I'm moving this weekend so I wont get a chance to throw the leaf back in or crank the pressure in the oris to test. Is a sway bar worthwhile with this setup? most of the sas posts threads ive found on google say swaybars aren't really necessary with the light weight of the truck? I scaled in around 4100lbs on the weekend. my gf is scared of my truck and doesn't want to ride in it lol. how do I get this thing to not feel like a complete death trap?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,901 Posts
Hey guys. I've finally got my project truck on the road after almost 2 years of building and it has a really sketch amount of body roll on corners. Coming out of the corner and the truck does not level back off on its own, I need to wiggle the wheel back and forth to flatten it out. When heading down the road and making minor steering corrections it sways side to side similar to a boat. back story is I got the truck as a roller with a trail gear sas already installed and a rear 4 link on 12" ori shocks. The truck came with 4"hd springs and I traded them off for some 3" trail gear springs. The 3" springs came with a leaf removed from the previous owner. I have a vw 1.9 turbo diesel in it that weighs roughly 300lbs, im also running a big steel bumper and a winch.

I feel like the sway and lean is coming from the front end. Could that missing leaf be contributing factor? would the missing leaf cause it to stay leaning after a corner or is that more attributed to a rear 4 link setup? I'm moving this weekend so I wont get a chance to throw the leaf back in or crank the pressure in the oris to test. Is a sway bar worthwhile with this setup? most of the sas posts threads ive found on google say swaybars aren't really necessary with the light weight of the truck? I scaled in around 4100lbs on the weekend. my gf is scared of my truck and doesn't want to ride in it lol. how do I get this thing to not feel like a complete death trap?
Its not your leaf springs, its your 4 link and ORIs. Pics of the rear suspension?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
Do you have a locker/spool in the rear? If you do, and its engaged, i'd be willing to bet this is causing most of the roll.

But yes poor system set up will also be a factor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I have an elocker but its not engaged.

These are the only pics I have on hand of the rear. I guess the plan is to crank the pressure and go from there. I know having them imboarded sucks but I don't want to hack up my box if I don't have to. I originally set them to 130psi in the lowers, then dropped them to 110psi from others advice. I'll try cranking them up to like 170 and see how it responds. The oris are also brand new. could the seals be sticking and stopping the return to level?

The pic with the fox and ori was before I had cut the old airshocks off. they were outside the frame but required 2" spacers and the tires would hit the shocks when flexing. Ori's are angled 7 degrees in and forward at ride height.






I know basically nothing about 4 link geometry. its a trail gear kit that was installed by the previous owner. The values I measured for link length and separation seemed like they were decent from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTWZgVx8Y6o
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Only the last pic where you can't really see the angle is at proper ride height. Most of them the suspension is closer to full droop. The links are what they are im not gonna dig that much into this truck again. If I can't get it to ride decent im just gonna sell it and get something closer to stock or trade in my car for a new Colorado zr2 🤷‍♂️

But I've been talking with some guys about the oris. The reason it's not leveling off is most likely because the shocks are new and the seals are sticking because they haven't broken in yet. Plus with how I have them mounted I'll need more pressure then most people. Gonna crank the pressure for now and possibly look into a quick disconnect sway bar. It doesn't need to handle like a race car as long as it doesn't feel like a death trap
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,901 Posts
Only the last pic where you can't really see the angle is at proper ride height. Most of them the suspension is closer to full droop. The links are what they are im not gonna dig that much into this truck again. If I can't get it to ride decent im just gonna sell it and get something closer to stock or trade in my car for a new Colorado zr2 🤷‍♂️

But I've been talking with some guys about the oris. The reason it's not leveling off is most likely because the shocks are new and the seals are sticking because they haven't broken in yet. Plus with how I have them mounted I'll need more pressure then most people. Gonna crank the pressure for now and possibly look into a quick disconnect sway bar. It doesn't need to handle like a race car as long as it doesn't feel like a death trap
It'll drive a lot better with leaf springs in the rear. Sucks but because of the expensive bling ORIs mounted inboard and without a sway bar you won't get it to ride good. ORIs are good for dedicated crawlers but thats about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
It'll drive a lot better with leaf springs in the rear. Sucks but because of the expensive bling ORIs mounted inboard and without a sway bar you won't get it to ride good. ORIs are good for dedicated crawlers but thats about it.
I disagree 100% on not getting a good ride. My ori’s ride a lot better than any leaf sprung rig I’ve been in. I have body roll like any softer suspension setup would have but it levels right out and I can take switchback corners faster than anybody in the passenger seat is comfortable with. Why? Idk? I built it in an unleveled broken concrete shop and with only knowledge of link systems I got from reading forums.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34,274 Posts
I disagree 100% on not getting a good ride. My ori’s ride a lot better than any leaf sprung rig I’ve been in. I have body roll like any softer suspension setup would have but it levels right out and I can take switchback corners faster than anybody in the passenger seat is comfortable with. Why? Idk? I built it in an unleveled broken concrete shop and with only knowledge of link systems I got from reading forums.
He's correct, though. Leafs vs the TG 4-link w/ inbound ORI's... leafs win.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,901 Posts
I disagree 100% on not getting a good ride. My ori’s ride a lot better than any leaf sprung rig I’ve been in. I have body roll like any softer suspension setup would have but it levels right out and I can take switchback corners faster than anybody in the passenger seat is comfortable with. Why? Idk? I built it in an unleveled broken concrete shop and with only knowledge of link systems I got from reading forums.
Wasn't a 100% dig on ORIs, they have their place and can be setup right but for the OP using the TG 4 link, in boarded ORIs with no sway bar, he's asking a lot for good on road handling. Leafs are 100x more stable than what he has. Unfortunate to spend all that money and have it not perform like you want but you live and learn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,880 Posts
Rockota is correct. It’s been a well known fact that TGs geometry is garbage. This is old news. Like 10 years old news. That shit needs redone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
im going to crank up the pressure and go from there. I might end up remounting them outside the frame. I could probably sacrifice a bit of up travel without having to hack up the wheel wells on my box too badly. i'll have to take some measurements and come up with a plan. The diesel isn't running as well as id like either, I think I went a bit big with the turbo, has tons of power above 2500rpm but getting there is pretty weak and excessive black smoke off boost. im gonna fiddle with the injection pump and figure out if I want to dig back into the build or just sell it and move on. I'm finally going to have a garage so working on the truck is going to be a lot easier. ive been building it In a friends back yard and it was so hard to make any progress ever.

The axle side of the trail gear mounts look half decent? It might not be too terribly difficult to remake the front mounts for some better angles? is there like an ideal range for angles id want of each link?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I cranked up the pressure to 170psi in the Lowers and drove the truck to my new house yesterday. Lean in the corners was way better and a lot more predictable. Its a bit sketchy at higher speed corners still so I may add a slight amount of pressure but I'm very close. Ride was super comfortable at this level. Hit a speed bump at 40kmh and could barely feel it. Definitely feeling that "cloud of titties" everyone describes. With my friend jumping in the box the shocks were compressing a good 3-4" so it's not overly stiff at all.

My ride height isn't completely dialed in and the back is sitting higher then it should. But I measured around 10 degrees for the upper link and 15 degrees for the lower. How far from level is ideal? I could probably drop the front link mounts a couple inches if I had to
 

·
Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
Joined
·
41,538 Posts
Looking at your next to last picture, it almost looks like the links cross as viewed from the side. Is that accurate?

Either way those are some shorts steep links, I would trash that whole set up.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
No most of them are not at ride height. I know the link angles kinda suck. Yes they do cross is that really bad? They are probably around 8-10" height apart and they don't bind anywhere (or even come close) during travel.

The truck actually handles fairly well. It's really smooth going down the road and other then the body roll it's fairly stable in a straight line on the road. I had it 120kmh on the highway last night and it felt very good for how high it is. There's a lot of things I'm working on on the truck before I get back into the suspension but I've got the injection pump tuned a bit better and have some plans to get more power from it. I went too big in the turbo so it doesn't hit full boost until 3000rpm but it's pretty fun in the first 3 gears when you hammer on it.

I plan to move the oris and notch the wheel wells when the time comes. Does anyone know an easy way I can figure out how far I out on the axle I can mount my shocks or what angle I can run them at before the tires would bind during articulation? Or is tack weld and cycle the axle the only way?
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top