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Discussion Starter #1
Lurking for years, denied membership because of yahoo address? Something changed.

Anywho, I'm moving my steering box forward to complete sas on 87 frame. If I put plate on both sides of frame should I still sleeve it? What is best way to put in sleeves? The steering box mounting area is really messed up because someone had gen 1 box monkeyfucked sas=holes everywhere. Any tips or pics appreciated. Bones hacking thread on subject was pretty good. Maybe I should have brought it to top? I'm using 48" rears and allpro pitman.

Thanks, Bob.
 

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to also use the holes that are already there with out having to put in anymore if all possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll use 2-3 of the existing holes to bolt support plates, but box has to be moved forward. What is best way to sleeve frame?
 

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I used three short threaded pipe nipples from HD with the thread cut off. I think they were about 1" OD, and the ID was big enough for the steering box mounting bolts. I didn't have a torch, so I used a 1" bit to drill through the frame. I can't remember if I drilled through the plating or if it sat on top of the end of the nipple. Either way, I welded the ends of the nipple to whatever it ended up flush with (frame or plate). I hope that thoroughly confused you.

edit:
One bolt was of course outside of the frame on top, so the nipple was exposed (oooh! :eek: ). I didn't use any stock holes.
 

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x2 on the FROR kit.

It's a quality piece that you won't have to worry about. Don't skimp on your steering.

Doc
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
From some of the pics on subject I thought reinforcing plates had to cover a lot more area than FROR kit. I have some 3/8" plate I guess that is too thick? Will definetly downsize length a lot after seeing their kit's pic. Proletariat, I got it. :) Thanks for replies.
 

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test

X3 on the FRORFAB Kit

Some Pics of mounting an IFS box on my 85 using the Front Range Off Road Crossover Steering Frame Brace

I welded the sleaves on the outside plate before I welded the plates on the frame/ I jigged it up using some 2x3 square tube

Only change I made was upgrading all the included bolts and nylocks from grade 5 to 8. They are Grade 8 now. Very sweet kit!!!





















Last few pics:





 

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Discussion Starter #11
SteveH, thanks for pics and how to. Helps a lot. Wondering how far you moved box forward? I'm going to have to cut away some rad support to clear my box. Might have to modify plates? Kit seems pretty highly rated, guess another $100 won't break me.
 

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Bob, I went as far forward as I could without having to cut the support. I did pound on it with a BFG a bit ......

The pitman is from Sky, and my axle is forward aprox 2". I could go another inch or 2 no prob.
 

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BobJ said:
SteveH, thanks for pics and how to. Helps a lot. Wondering how far you moved box forward? I'm going to have to cut away some rad support to clear my box. Might have to modify plates? Kit seems pretty highly rated, guess another $100 won't break me.

no need for a kit, pipe from home depot is cheap and fit's 1/2" bolts also available there or elsewhere. You'll need to drill the toy holes to fit the 1/2" bolts but that's easy.

Then steel, cut that with whatever - jigsaw, cut off wheel, grinder ???

no kit here, just about $3 worth of steel



My rule of thumb for mounting the boxes has been to keep the bottom two holes parallel with the frame and in the center of the frame, then slid the box till the pitman arm just barely clears the frame - done..
 

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Brandon said:
no kit here, just about $3 worth of steel
$3 worth of steel??? You must have stocked up a couple of years ago .... :flipoff2:

Brandon makes a good point, you can easily make your own, but you have to consider what your time is worth. If saving a few hours of fab time, and gas by not having to run around for materials and parts, the kit is a good value.

I figure my time is worth at least $75 an hour min.

You guys figure what your worth, and do the math.

I stand by that the kit is a killer deal because if your time is valuable, and you really add up the #'s, you will find you saved with the kit.

Now, I'm not saying I always go for a kit, I don't. I also enjoy making my own parts for the pure joy of it. I put Brandon in that category. He makes most if not all of his parts.
 

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Sky sells a cheap little $15 kit that works well too if you want to just make your own plates. You must sleeve this thing or it will want to crush the frame. It's better to sleeve and not plate than plate and not sleeve.
 

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steveh the thing that kidna stinx bout that kit, is it dosent weld to u'r frong hanger (frame often cracks there (or so ive heard)) I moved my box almoast all the way flush with the front. 1.5" shy of the front. i'll post pics tonight, i plated inside/out sleved the top bolt. and lenghtened my steering colum.
 

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4wheelin4christ said:
steveh the thing that kidna stinx bout that kit, is it dosent weld to u'r frong hanger (frame often cracks there (or so ive heard)) I moved my box almoast all the way flush with the front. 1.5" shy of the front. i'll post pics tonight, i plated inside/out sleved the top bolt. and lenghtened my steering colum.

Not a problem, I fabbed my front hanger to account for that. It comes back under the frame just for that reason.

The guys I know who have had the cracks were because the drop hangers they fabbed or bought did not go back under the frame rails.
 

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If you make or buy your hanger add braces that go back on the frame. This will help stop your frame from cracking. That was the first thing I did to the spring hanger five years ago when I got it from A-P.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Thanks for replies. I spent all day grinding, burring and fitting steering box to rad support to move box forward as much as possible. Now I'm not really sure it needed it? With no drivetrain there is about 2.5" between drag link and tie rod. When I stand on front of truck spring travel makes gap increase? At some point can moving steering box too far forward be a bad thing?

I see The way Brandon positions his box. Mine ended up bottom two bolts level, but high up on frame for pitman nut clearance? Still haven't found final resting place for it. Will post a pic tomorrow. Steering shaft extension worked good.

Sometimes ordering those kits can be 2 week or more delay for me. Then exchange and 14% tax. Also paranoid I'm gonna be sent to guantonamo next time I cross border cause a guy has same name and birthday as me with drug convictions :confused: Now i get V.I.P. tour every trip. At least no cavity search yet. :grinpimp: My time is worth $0.00. I justify by telling myself I'm learning...
 

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BobJ said:
high up on frame for pitman nut clearance?
I've seen a picture where someone notched their frame so the nut could actually swing through it.
 
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