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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a free SM465 with a bad input shaft that I'm going to have rebuilt with a new input shaft. The price I've been quoted for the shop to supply the shaft is a bit outragous <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

I'm looking at hauling ass to a pick-n-pull and yanking a shaft there.

However, the repair manual I have for the SM465(factory one) isn't too clear on removing the input shaft <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

For those that have done it, aside from popping the shifter cover off and the input bearing retainer, is there any other part I need to fawk with? I know the input gear has a flat spot for pulling it. But, I suppose what I'm really looking at is do I have to fawk around with the ass end of tranny?

Most of the SM465's I've seen at the junk yard are 2wd versions and I really don't want to have to screw around with trying to pull the yoke off of it <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

Thanks in advance for any good info,
John
 

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As far as I know, you will need to drop the countershaft down into the case to clear the clutch gear over the counter gear, which means you have to pull the bearings from both ends of the countershaft along with the clutch gear bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by dirtrod:
<STRONG>As far as I know, you will need to drop the countershaft down into the case to clear the clutch gear over the counter gear, which means you have to pull the bearings from both ends of the countershaft along with the clutch gear bearing.</STRONG>
That is what I'm afraid of <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

Do you think I can get away with just dropping the front of the countershaft?
 

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I can't remember, it's real tight in there...try it ! good luck
 

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I just took apart my 420 and the only thing you will NEED to remove is the nose cone. After that the input can physically come out the front if you align the flat spot so it can slide past the lower gear. You will have to use a punch from the inside to push the bearing and input out the front. The only reason you would need to remove anything else is to get room to fit the punch. Can't remember how tight it was, as I just took the whole thing apart.
Good luck.
 

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Originally posted by Lil'John:
<STRONG>I just got a free SM465 with a bad input shaft that I'm going to have rebuilt with a new input shaft. The price I've been quoted for the shop to supply the shaft is a bit outragous <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

I'm looking at hauling ass to a pick-n-pull and yanking a shaft there.

However, the repair manual I have for the SM465(factory one) isn't too clear on removing the input shaft <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

For those that have done it, aside from popping the shifter cover off and the input bearing retainer, is there any other part I need to fawk with? I know the input gear has a flat spot for pulling it. But, I suppose what I'm really looking at is do I have to fawk around with the ass end of tranny?

Most of the SM465's I've seen at the junk yard are 2wd versions and I really don't want to have to screw around with trying to pull the yoke off of it <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

Thanks in advance for any good info,
John</STRONG>

What are you using the 465 for? If it's going into a chevy with a Chevy t-case, disregard my questioning.

However, if you are looking to adapt it to something...Use a 2wd version. They are 35 spline. 4 wheel drives are either 10 or 32 spline. AA only make adapters for the 10 spline, so you have to swap out the shaft on these anyway.

Also, check out this place for tranny parts
Click here
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know about AA and their various adapters and limitations... I've got SEVERAL of their manuals and next week I'm going to finish the collection <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I've also been a BIG supporter of their adapters.

The tranny I'm going to use is the standard 10 spline because I hate cutting tranny shafts <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> In the future, I'm looking at a new mainshaft on the SM465 <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> It is currently being used to goto a Land Cruiser 3 speed tcase using a plate style adaper.

Back to the input shaft question though. Anyone know if I pop the front bearing retainer, remove the top cover, and remove the countershaft front bearing, will I be able to just pry out the input shaft out without hurting the shaft? I'm not too worried about screwing up the rest of the tranny parts <IMG SRC="smilies/devil.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eyemouth.gif" border="0">
 

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You will have to pull bearings on front and rear of the 465 to break the main shaft apart so both ends slide a little. the next move is reaching down to break the counter gear free. you will have to loosen the bearing on the front of that as well which can get a bit challanging but take the rar bearing out on the counter shaft as well and this will help you on getting the front bearing out. You can sometimes get the input free without taking out the front bearing on the countershaft but it's alot easier if you remove it. than once you get it give a good yank ..... Don't forget to align the flat spot on the shaft with the counter gear. that always makes it a bit easier. there is a place up here in Seattle Wa that sells specific parts for that tranny. Called Valley gear. they will have an input for that tranny as well as any other part you may need. I think a full bearing replacement is around 100 bucks. and that is the bushings that 3 of the gears ride on on the main shaft. good investment if your already in there. asz far as using the 2wd model of the 465 from what I have seen is the adapter is a bit longer. in a Jeep application this is not always the hot ticket if your limited on driveline space. so just be a bit selective before you go and use one or the other because one is more available than the other. because the only real difference is the shaft which can be swapped from one to another and mainshaft replacement is not that expensive really and pretty easy to do.. yes the 4wd version wears a little quicker. the other difference is the bellhousing prebolts from the inside to the 2wd bellhousing where as on the 4wd it bolts from the outside.
 
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