smog tricks
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Buy a new cat:flipoff2: if that's not going to happen...........
run regular fuel
set timing retarded 3* from stock
run 1 step hotter plug
change the oil/filter
new wires cap & rotor/air filter/fuel filter
make sure it's up to full operating temp, cats only work correctly at that temp, to cold bad, to hot bad too
run regular fuel
set timing retarded 3* from stock
run 1 step hotter plug
change the oil/filter
new wires cap & rotor/air filter/fuel filter
make sure it's up to full operating temp, cats only work correctly at that temp, to cold bad, to hot bad too
Check the plugs, change the oil, tune up the carb. Drop the locking gas cap if you already havent (they always fail)
Chances are, if the engine runs well and has a functioning smog pump, and a working cat, it should pass no problem.
my 83 passed ok with a vaccum line unplugged which I didnt track down until a month later
Chances are, if the engine runs well and has a functioning smog pump, and a working cat, it should pass no problem.
my 83 passed ok with a vaccum line unplugged which I didnt track down until a month later
Ok, I checked out your site I'm going to assume you're running a carbed 22r or a FI 22re. I like cheap tricks so heres my two bits:
Disconnect the PCV valve going to the intake valve, place a large ball bearing in the tube and put it back. All this does is prevent richening of the air fuel mixture in case you have excessive raw fuel blowby. You can do the same with the purge canister line too for the same reason.
Another thing is to do is simply to bump-up the idle or change the way the carb idles by opening the throttle valve using the set screw and turning down (screwing IN) the idle screw. Air fuel ratio from idle circuits are usually richer than AFM from primary circuits, so if you can minimize the use of idle circuits in place of the primary circuits ... all the better.
Backing up the timing always seems to work though I still havn't been given a believable explanation why. Retard / back up the timing to 0 degrees.
Disconnect the PCV valve going to the intake valve, place a large ball bearing in the tube and put it back. All this does is prevent richening of the air fuel mixture in case you have excessive raw fuel blowby. You can do the same with the purge canister line too for the same reason.
Another thing is to do is simply to bump-up the idle or change the way the carb idles by opening the throttle valve using the set screw and turning down (screwing IN) the idle screw. Air fuel ratio from idle circuits are usually richer than AFM from primary circuits, so if you can minimize the use of idle circuits in place of the primary circuits ... all the better.
Backing up the timing always seems to work though I still havn't been given a believable explanation why. Retard / back up the timing to 0 degrees.
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296 Posts
I've had good luck with dry gas... run your tank down to under a 1/4 tank and drop in a couple of bottles of dry gas. basically you're running alcohol through your engine, which gives you a cleaner burn. also make sure you change your oil/filter and check the plugs like everyone else said. HTH
do not mess with timing. Smog tech's are required to check your timing and can fail ya. Also the "hotter plug" also raises combustion chamber temps which create nox. change the oil, make sure the air injection is working correctly, and take it for a hot lap on your way to the smog shop to get the cat really workin. And definatly do not use higher octane fuel or octane booster. It will not burn completely and raises Hydrocarbons.If you don't believe me, do not come to the test only smog shop I work at:flipoff2: . Another thing that helps is take a can of carb cleaner and spray the whole can through your intake, while holding the throttle up to 2500 or 3000 rpm's. This is called a upper engine clean and does actually work at lowering the #'s. Don't do this at the smog shop.
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it's crap, I tried once upon a time, to get your $ back you have to pay a shop to fix your car and then send them the recept showing the repair and the proof that it passed smog afterwards....what a load of crap! so if it don't work and you fix it yourself, no $ back....scamCoop 50 said:
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Seabass 44 is just sraight kickin' knowledge!!
My 2 cents: Make sure your EGR isn't clogged, cuz it'll send nox thru the roof and another brand of hotter plug is the Autolite #65.knowledge
My 2 cents: Make sure your EGR isn't clogged, cuz it'll send nox thru the roof and another brand of hotter plug is the Autolite #65.knowledge
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