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Discussion Starter #1
ok got to get my truck smogged ... normally wouldnt concern me, however i have to go to a "smog only" station ... what are some tricks to help me get passed the smog-nazis
 

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Buy a new cat:flipoff2: if that's not going to happen...........
run regular fuel
set timing retarded 3* from stock
run 1 step hotter plug
change the oil/filter
new wires cap & rotor/air filter/fuel filter
make sure it's up to full operating temp, cats only work correctly at that temp, to cold bad, to hot bad too:mad:
 

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Check the plugs, change the oil, tune up the carb. Drop the locking gas cap if you already havent (they always fail)

Chances are, if the engine runs well and has a functioning smog pump, and a working cat, it should pass no problem.

my 83 passed ok with a vaccum line unplugged which I didnt track down until a month later ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well i gots to get a new cat, mine got in a fight with a rock and lost ... one step hotter plug? please inform me so i am no longer ignaint
 

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mobil1syn said:
well i gots to get a new cat, mine got in a fight with a rock and lost ... one step hotter plug? please inform me so i am no longer ignaint
It will burn a little hotter and keeps the chambers cleaner when idling for extended periods, can't hurt and may help the idle test;)
 

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ok how would i obtain these? is this caused by a change in the gap?
 

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mobil1syn said:
ok how would i obtain these? is this caused by a change in the gap?
mine it calls for Champion RN12Y, I was told to run RN14Y's, so just go up a step or 2, ask someone at a real auto parts store
;)
 

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thanks for the help seabass ... guess you getting a jeep made you soft
 

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Ok, I checked out your site I'm going to assume you're running a carbed 22r or a FI 22re. I like cheap tricks so heres my two bits:

Disconnect the PCV valve going to the intake valve, place a large ball bearing in the tube and put it back. All this does is prevent richening of the air fuel mixture in case you have excessive raw fuel blowby. You can do the same with the purge canister line too for the same reason.

Another thing is to do is simply to bump-up the idle or change the way the carb idles by opening the throttle valve using the set screw and turning down (screwing IN) the idle screw. Air fuel ratio from idle circuits are usually richer than AFM from primary circuits, so if you can minimize the use of idle circuits in place of the primary circuits ... all the better.

Backing up the timing always seems to work though I still havn't been given a believable explanation why. Retard / back up the timing to 0 degrees.
 

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dkc1657 said:
................

Backing up the timing always seems to work though I still havn't been given a believable explanation why. Retard / back up the timing to 0 degrees.
Eariler spark, more burn time, fuel is more completely burned, thus cleaner;) remember only 25% of the fuel burns, the other 75% comes out the exhaust:(
 

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What happened to all that pass in a bottle stuff? I remember reading here before about that stuff, but I've never used it. I think somebody said it had a bunch of alcohol in it. Don't they say guaranteed to pass or your money back?
 

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I've had good luck with dry gas... run your tank down to under a 1/4 tank and drop in a couple of bottles of dry gas. basically you're running alcohol through your engine, which gives you a cleaner burn. also make sure you change your oil/filter and check the plugs like everyone else said. HTH
 

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I don't think I'd pass a visual inspection with the aftermarket turbo and manifold!!

I agree with what has been said so far for the sniff test...
 

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do not mess with timing. Smog tech's are required to check your timing and can fail ya. Also the "hotter plug" also raises combustion chamber temps which create nox. change the oil, make sure the air injection is working correctly, and take it for a hot lap on your way to the smog shop to get the cat really workin. And definatly do not use higher octane fuel or octane booster. It will not burn completely and raises Hydrocarbons.If you don't believe me, do not come to the test only smog shop I work at:flipoff2: . Another thing that helps is take a can of carb cleaner and spray the whole can through your intake, while holding the throttle up to 2500 or 3000 rpm's. This is called a upper engine clean and does actually work at lowering the #'s. Don't do this at the smog shop.:D
 

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Coop 50 said:
What happened to all that pass in a bottle stuff? I remember reading here before about that stuff, but I've never used it. I think somebody said it had a bunch of alcohol in it. Don't they say guaranteed to pass or your money back?
it's crap, I tried once upon a time, to get your $ back you have to pay a shop to fix your car and then send them the recept showing the repair and the proof that it passed smog afterwards....what a load of crap! so if it don't work and you fix it yourself, no $ back....scam:mad:
 

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Seabass 44 is just sraight kickin' knowledge!!

My 2 cents: Make sure your EGR isn't clogged, cuz it'll send nox thru the roof and another brand of hotter plug is the Autolite #65.knowledge
 

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kneebuckler345 said:
Seabass 44 is just sraight kickin' knowledge!!

My 2 cents: Make sure your EGR isn't clogged, cuz it'll send nox thru the roof and another brand of hotter plug is the Autolite #65.knowledge
yup the egr thang:mad: I was only giving answers based on a good working motor;)
 
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