So when doing a SAS, what about ABS?

I yanked the ABS on my ex's 94 4Runner when we installed the 4" lift. Hated that crap anyway.

I pulled it all out of the 93 that I had.

This is a valid question , though. Has anybody successfully adapted ABS to on an SAS?

i had rear-wheel abs on my 91....just tied the rear wheel speed sensor up out of the way. presto...no more abs.

ABS and rocks and slopes don't mix.

I can just imagine me going downhill like OHHH NOOO being ABLE to STEER but not able to stop ?

the abs on your runner is rear wheel only.

abs is for people who cant drive

mine (93) is just rear ABS as well, and i just left it as is for now. i'll ditch it one of these days.... 4-wheel ABS was available on V6 models as of 94. not sure how you'd adapt it to a SFA.

boostedrunner said:

So I have purchased a 81 front solid axle for My 95 toyota Runner V6. The runner has ABS on it, but was wondering what people were doing about the abs part of things when doing a SAS? Any Ideas? Do you have to press a ABS ring onto the hub, or?

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Pull the fuse and delete it, in my opinion anything as modified as most of our rigs are the ABS won't work properly anyway. One trip i made to hollister i was hit by a 98 chevy that was lifted with swampers, which made no difference because the ABS kicked in and the poor guy drove right into me, foot on the brake the whole time. My .02

Ok, Im just worried about the Proportioning Valving, and how it would effect the rest of the brake system. My truck is a 95 V6 and I BELIVE it has front abs. So one can just pull the fuse, and have a regular ole braking system or do I have to take out the abs modulator?

If the abs system is deactivated, the system will opperate just like a conventional brake system. However keep the intact because when it comes time to bleed the brakes some systems require the pump motor to be activated and valves cycled. The other option is to bypass the hydraulic control all together. IF you do bypass it, you may need to add a proportioning valve as some abs systems brake bias is part of the HCU.

gnob said:

the abs on your runner is rear wheel only.

abs is for people who cant drive

Click to expand...

While I tend to agree as far as trail use, 4 wheel ABS is a wonderful thing on icy roads in a DD vehicle. No pumping, no threshold braking, no guesswork. Just bury the pedal in the firewall and steer like normal, and it pumps the brakes far better than you ever could.

I miss driving in the winter in Chicago.

VasToyBoy said:

One trip i made to hollister i was hit by a 98 chevy that was lifted with swampers, which made no difference because the ABS kicked in and the poor guy drove right into me, foot on the brake the whole time. My .02

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funny thing....i was at hollister in my old ranger doing a hillclimb, hit a rut and stopped, hit the brakes (pedal hard as a rock) and proceeded to fly down the hill backwards and smashed into the hill at the bottom backwards doing probably about 25-30. Brake pedal didnt move and inch the entire time. Thank god for my rear tube bumper, took the brunt with no damage. ABS blows...

This may help. I removed the Abs from My 95 PU but it was Rear Wheel ABS. Did a bit of a write up here:
http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=103892&highlight=abs+removal

Ok so I am looking at removing my abs control block and everything associated so that I do not get the ABS light all the time. This thread that Neoworm posted is awesome but none of the pics work for me so I am working kind of blindly. I was wondering if anyone has come across any similar threads showing/documenting the proceedure.

Thanks

boostedrunner said:

So I have purchased a 81 front solid axle for My 95 toyota Runner V6. The runner has ABS on it, but was wondering what people were doing about the abs part of things when doing a SAS? Any Ideas? Do you have to press a ABS ring onto the hub, or?

Click to expand...

As every one else has said it is rear wheel only. I cut the lines to the pass side abs unit made a loop and connected the lines it has going in and out together then remove the unit from the frame. I then cut the connector at the harness and took the bulb out of the cluster and then cut the wiring off ath the sensor and at the frame. No more abs.

I just had an idea. Why not use the ABS actuator without all the controller electronics and hook it up to toggle switches, etc, to use as a form of cutting brakes?

Might not work, I have no idea how all the ABS parts do their thing, but it might be worth looking into.

JACKED944RUNNER said:

As every one else has said it is rear wheel only. I cut the lines to the pass side abs unit made a loop and connected the lines it has going in and out together then remove the unit from the frame. I then cut the connector at the harness and took the bulb out of the cluster and then cut the wiring off ath the sensor and at the frame. No more abs.

Click to expand...

Because I want to get rid of it completely without pulling the bulb. I am removing the block alltogether and want to get rid of everything else at the same time. I dont want any trace it there being abs in my 4runner because if there is then it will fail when it comes to an inspection.

Erik B did it on his 97 runner. It is somewhere in this thread, towards the end I think.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=609488

littlerunner said:

Because I want to get rid of it completely without pulling the bulb. I am removing the block alltogether and want to get rid of everything else at the same time. I dont want any trace it there being abs in my 4runner because if there is then it will fail when it comes to an inspection.

Click to expand...

No I get that I said cut off the brackets, make a union line to connect the two brake lines together, cut the wiring out in the front and rear, then remove the bulb because it will most likely be on. All the abs should be gone by then if you remove the controller off of the pass side frame rail.