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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's how I'm doing it. I did a rear 4 link 3 or 4 years ago and I have been accquiring the necessary parts for the build. I'm working with a 70 800 with a power lock Scout II front end and running 35's a Fuel injected 345 and a 727 auto.

The objective is a capable all around rig and probably sticking with 35's for a long long time. Here's the link to the rear build. http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52069&highlight=link

Here is the parts list...






I'll be using 2" 12" travel FOA coil overs withg dual spring, 14" - 350# under
10" - 225#.

The new axle is a D-44 RS from a 78 Ford. The long side is now the short side and the left side was retubed to stock Scout II length. Right now, the Short side is set up to run a EB short side which is 3.5" longer than a stock Scout.




The overall width is the same as the current axle because I am running 1-1/2" spacers. The reason I am doing this axle is the Scout II D-44 has about 2-1/2" of right tube and I don't have room for the brackets and keep the lower links paralell and under the frame so I don't loose turning radius.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The brackets are primarily Ballistic radius arm and shock towers and Ruff Stuff tabs and Panhard mounts. I'm using Ballistic bushings on the axle and Balistic joints on the frame end.




The radius brackets do include shock mounts, but I wont be using these shock mounts. I wanted to keep the links under the frame, to keep all the turning radius and not go any wider track width.

I am also going to use either the top of the bracket or the joint for the axle side of the bumpstop. I am planning on 4" of compression max and upto 8" of extension for travel.

I will be using the left mount for the third link, with the frame end back on the lower link. The right lower link will have the same upper mount in case I want to run the second upper link for a 4 link. (not counting the panhard)

The lower shock mounts are the inner C brace style to put the lower shock mount as wide as I can. I haven't decided on the exact length of the lower links yet, But I am heading to the bottom of the frame just past the bottom of the bend.



Also what is yet to be determined, if I will have room for a CV front Drive shaft around the tranny with the diff moved a few inches to the center with the EB short side axle. If I can't clear the CV, my fall back is to shorten the short side back to the width of a stock Scout II axle shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I have started the custom work by welding the frame end panhard mount and the shock towers to some 3" x 1/4" flat stock for frame reinforcement.






And now for the last pics of the day...




And the one that gives me a woodie...:D



More tomorrow, but don't expect results as fast as some people (rkscout) on this board:flipoff2:
 

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Nice. Subscribed. :smokin:
 

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Looking good... Im keeping my eye on this one as I want to do something similar to my '71 800 hopefully in the near future... Keep up the nice work! :smokin:
 

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I'm looking forward to how this comes together.:grinpimp:
 

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Nice start Buck.

How are you planning on putting the axle side panhard bracket on, outside of the radius arm bracket? Are you going to be running high steering arms and a raised tie rod?

I'd also run a heim on the upper link "frame" end. Making the bracket on the link for the huge Balistic joint will be a ugly, and it'll potentially hit the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Nice start Buck.

How are you planning on putting the axle side panhard bracket on, outside of the radius arm bracket? Are you going to be running high steering arms and a raised tie rod?

I'd also run a heim on the upper link "frame" end. Making the bracket on the link for the huge Balistic joint will be a ugly, and it'll potentially hit the frame.
The panhard bracket is the Ruff Stuff offset bracket. This will be on the front side of the drivers side. I don't have to worry about this bracket staying under the frame for turning clearance. I expect to have plenty of room without worring about the link bracket. If I run into not enough room (front to back) on the axle tube, I'll remove some of the shock mount portion of the link bracket. I won't be using this section for the shock mounts.



For the steering linkages, I don't have to worry about interference from the leaf springs, so I am not going to do a high steer. What I am going to do is use flip-certs that I got from from Damien a few years ago to pick up about 3" on the tie rod from the current position and end up with the heavy duty Chev tie rod ends. For those that don't know what flip certs are, the knuckles are tapered from the lower side, you drill out the taper and put the flip cert in from the top to make the taper come in from the top.

These should work well for ground clearance and then also help me get the panhard and drag link alligned closer to parallel.

Last, I am using a 7/8" rod end with misalignment spacers for a total width of 2" OD on the frame end upper link mound mounted on the lower link. The placement of the frame end upper link is to be determined, but full stuff will be on the bumpstops before this mount makes contact. I'm using some of the smaller link tabs for the upper frame end mount.

I'd agree, the big ass joint would look like shit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's hard to tell from the pictures but is that diff upside down?:eek:
Why yes it should look upside down...

It's a Ford High Pinion that I retubed to a passenger side diff.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just a little more today, the metal store was closed:shaking:

I finished the frame reinforcing for the lower link frame mounts. I looked at lots of options for lower profile, but in the end, these are essentially the same as the rear end, mounted on the underside of the frame right around the frame bend, and I have not had a single issue with any clearance for the wheeling I do, so I decided to keep it simple...



I don't think these mounts will be going anywhere, We'll see how I do on the beads when I'm upside down and backwards...




I installed my Bungs today,

The problem with people today, we just don't get to talk openly about our Bungs anymore...




And finally, I got one insert inserted. This is the axle end, and I'm using the bushing instead of the joint to isolate vibration. The fact is, I have all joints on the rear 4 link and I doub't if I could pick out any anoying vibrations, after all, this is a 40 year old Scout:flipoff2:

 

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It looks really great this should be a fun thread. Since you are sticking with 35's Im guessing you looking for a low rider. Compared to the leafs you had before where your ride height be? How much up and down travel are you shooting for?
 

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BUNG HOLIO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! looks real nice buck,good tech and fab here
 

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I hope it pops, binds and grinds when you flex it:flipoff2: Naw just screwing with after you sold the Scout I wanted. On a tech note I have a HP D60 I need to retube, SOOO how did you get the tube removed from the housing on the short side? I have already cut the Cs off and will be doing the retube over the next couple weeks. It all part of my keeping my plate over full program. I will be watching your build as I am planing to install the HP D60 under my junk later, and will need to redo my links then. And lastly did you consider ORI struts, I have been looking at them and thinking they may be a good option for my junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
It looks really great this should be a fun thread. Since you are sticking with 35's Im guessing you looking for a low rider. Compared to the leafs you had before where your ride height be? How much up and down travel are you shooting for?
Right now I have stock sagged out 800 springs. As you can see I have long shackles to try and keep most of the fenders out of the tires. I expect to end up with 4"- 5" of lift on the front which will match up pretty good with the rear. With what I trimmed out of the fenders already and the bumpstops, I should be good.

I am planning for 4" of comperssion and up to 8" of extension for travel.



 
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