Not that I'm aware of. I mean, if they are used alot, then they wear out ~ but I have yet to see it.
I saw a guy with that same stacked rod-end set up on his daughters white Scout on the Rubicon around 1999. He was bragging that he "invented" the design and that it saved him $1000 versus highsteer. I can't remember where on the trail this was other than it was pretty far in, but before big sluice. Anyway it wasn't 10 minutes later and I saw them welding from a distance. I went over and of course the knuckle arm had snapped from the leverage. This was a typical mildly built Scout with as I recall 33's, but they could have been 35's. No hydro assist or anything like that.I've already drilled out the knuckles and have flip certs installed.
I'll need to see if I have room for both links above the knuckle like in this pic. I wouldn't mind having the tie rod under the knuckle and the drag link over the knuckle. I just can't believe I'm wanting a knuckle sandwich.
I really don't think I need to have the tie rod in the highest possible position to avoid damage, it is already far better than it was. I would rather not end up with the stack in the pic, and just use misalignment spacers on the drag link rod end, no spacers for the tie rod and then a big ass bolt with a custom hole for a castellated nut and cotter pin.
I've always referred to those as "top locks""Grade-C Lock nuts" are nuts with crimped ends to create a nylock-effect without the use of nylon. I use them all the time.
Sounds like safety wire may have been the trick here?Pretty soon, the cotter key hole was gone, but I eventually got to where it would all clear - without any safety key.
I applied some Red Loctite.. but it wasn't much longer before my nerves got the better of me and I bought a new TRE, then notched and plated the frame to make room for the full length TRE with cotter pin.
This rear frame end upper link mount has the three adjustable positions. I'm currently in the middle position.Just to recap - the issue is that your rear 4-link induces squat, planting the tail when you launch, causing the nose to rise.
This is compounded now by the "fee falling" coil springs (the old leaf springs had internal resistance that slowed the drop, limited travel, and whatever crusty old shocks you had before).
In 4wd, you don't notice it as much because the front is pulling and counteracts some of that squat.
Aside from changing your rear link design, adding more rebound to the shocks (or, as you're doing, just adding more in general) would help somewhat, by slowing the rate at which the front shocks will unload, causing the lift in the front of the frame (that the rear suspension is inducing) to work against the weight of the front axle a little harder which will slow it down and/or reduce the effect.
It would also mean while charging over the whoops, you might carry the front axle more instead of letting it drop down into every trough. (OTOH, go too far and it starts to stack up and the axle never comes down and the ride begins to get VERY rough from sitting at the bump stops the whole time)
That sound about right?
Tearing into a shock is scary the first time, but then ho-hum. You'll need to find a motorcycle shop to get the shocks recharged.
Oh - one of the advantages of your current setup - when you come to a speed bump, hammer the gas - you'll float over it. :evil:
Amen!First thing is to drive the piss out of this thing
Do keep in mind the ENTIRE travel arc of the front axle. When I setup my 7100s (non-coilover, but heimed ends) I had to think about it for a bit, and have it setup so they are NOT vertical or centered at ride height, because as the suspension traveled, the shock angle (fore/aft) shifted - and when originally mounted as vertical, it would exceed the angle on the heim joints at various spots of the suspension travel, which means bent and broken shock shafts (BTDT).I'll be doing the wear band on the shocks when I get them, and see what the effect is on the 2wd lifting. When I have the shocks off, I'm going to adjust the lower links on the front a smidge to center the shocks in the tower.
Nod.Then I'll look at the rear AS adjustments and I would think a lower rear AS would decease the lift in he front, however these matters give me the brain cramps.
I ordered these shocks with 1-1/4" mounting, I would go 1-1/2" next time. The difference is these cute little missalignment spacers.Do keep in mind the ENTIRE travel arc of the front axle. When I setup my 7100s (non-coilover, but heimed ends) I had to think about it for a bit, and have it setup so they are NOT vertical or centered at ride height, because as the suspension traveled, the shock angle (fore/aft) shifted - and when originally mounted as vertical, it would exceed the angle on the heim joints at various spots of the suspension travel, which means bent and broken shock shafts (BTDT).