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Discussion Starter #223
Well finally an update...

I had to gather the motivation to replace the tranny for the 3rd time in 500 miles, but I did get it installed and actually wheeled.

Everything flexes well and is stable but I do need to figure out how to stop the links from rotating, and changing lots of angles.

Here is the right side.



and the left side



I'm thinking about a couple of options, weld a DOM bushing at the axle end of the lower link, and another is invert the links, putting the long link from the frame end to the upper hole on the axle and make the short link connect to the lower axle mount.

Any thoughts?
 

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Well finally an update...

I had to gather the motivation to replace the tranny for the 3rd time in 500 miles, but I did get it installed and actually wheeled.

Everything flexes well and is stable but I do need to figure out how to stop the links from rotating, and changing lots of angles.

Here is the right side.



and the left side



I'm thinking about a couple of options, weld a DOM bushing at the axle end of the lower link, and another is invert the links, putting the long link from the frame end to the upper hole on the axle and make the short link connect to the lower axle mount.

Any thoughts?
Eliminate the joint at center of the link. Weld the tubes together. A radius arm doesn't pivot in the middle.
 

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I had the same problem during mockup. I replaced the heim on the rear of the upper link that attaches to the lower link with a urethane bushing. though mine hasn't left the jackstands I feel confident that it will resolve your problem. you might even be able to ditch one of your upper links as i did.
 

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Discussion Starter #226
Here is a pic of the links when they were virgins.



I'm think about plating between the the two links with a piece of 1/4" plate. I don't think this would reduce articulation significantly over the existing set up and would be simple and even reversable if need be.

Tom M, isn't your racer using radius arms?
 

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Buck the rods need to twist when the axle moves, if you plate it the rods will not be able to. I think it will limit your movement. My Scout has the same set up with coil springs and work very nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Buck the rods need to twist when the axle moves, if you plate it the rods will not be able to. I think it will limit your movement. My Scout has the same set up with coil springs and work very nice.
Can you post some pics?
 

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Eliminate the joint at center of the link. Weld the tubes together. A radius arm doesn't pivot in the middle.
Rick is right. It's also much much stronger.

Figure out where/how you want it, then weld it and plate it.

Mine still need plated.

 

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Discussion Starter #231
I just reread the discussion on front end design we had in my rear suspension build on BB starting about post 120. It just goes to show I've forgotton more than I know. :shaking:

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52069&page=12

I think I might plate one side, the passenger side and do nothing with the drivers side and see what happens.
 

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it would be real easy to take those short links off, and add an upper link straight to the frame for a true 3 link on the driveshaft side. after christmas I'm going to be building a 3link for my scout, and doing it like that. should work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #234
Poser shot from today :flipoff2:



What you don't see, is the right rear coil out of the retainer. A bit of a pisser, but I will say it is much easier replacing a coil spring than a leaf spring.

I will be modifying the retainer "system" to try and prevent the missing spring flex shot.

I still havent welded a plate between the links on one side, but I hope that will minimize that pesky intermintant DW...
 

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It looks good Scott

I would build a bumpstop that sits inside the coilsprings in the rear so that it also retains the coil and still lets it droop out. Like people put in their heeps
 

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Discussion Starter #236
I think this took care of the Death Wobble



I drove about 9 miles and up to almost 50 mph and no sign of DW. The links were rotating so much, it seems kind of amazing I drove it like that.:homer:
 

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Discussion Starter #238 (Edited)
Any particular reason you didn't go with a 3 link?
Sure, at the time if the initial design, I don't see how I would have been able to place the upper link on a truss over the diff and clear the oil pan with the ride height I was expecting.

I know it's possible (because there are 3 link front ends running around), but there is a ton of shit to get in a small space and it ends up being a compromise. I'm not too sure I would be comfortable driving the 3 link I'd have to build, on the road, at speed, and being able to drive to the trails was just about my #1 requirement for this rig.

 

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I'm not too sure I would be comfortable driving the 3 link I'd have to build, on the road, at speed, and being able to drive to the trails was just about my #1 requirement for this rig.
Buck:

I’ve read both of your link builds and also read 472Scout’s. It appears you did a lot of research so maybe you ran across some 3 link issues you did not mention. What made you uncomfortable about driving a 3 link? Fabrication skills and relying on one link or the way it functions? If function, what?

I’m in the layout phase of linking my 80 and do not see a way to get the upper (third) link to the middle of the axle due to obstructions. I’ve read that attaching the single upper link offset to one side will cause the Scout to pull to the opposite side of the Scout the link is on during braking. I can see how this would happen and am curious if you ran across the same issue.

If anyone else has experienced this please share.

Also, how close do the top of your front tires get to your coilovers on the front during articulation?
 

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Discussion Starter #240
Buck:

I’ve read both of your link builds and also read 472Scout’s. It appears you did a lot of research so maybe you ran across some 3 link issues you did not mention. What made you uncomfortable about driving a 3 link? Fabrication skills and relying on one link or the way it functions? If function, what?

I’m in the layout phase of linking my 80 and do not see a way to get the upper (third) link to the middle of the axle due to obstructions. I’ve read that attaching the single upper link offset to one side will cause the Scout to pull to the opposite side of the Scout the link is on during braking. I can see how this would happen and am curious if you ran across the same issue.

If anyone else has experienced this please share.

Also, how close do the top of your front tires get to your coilovers on the front during articulation?
I think my front 3 link issues are running my upper link(s) off of my lower links and the rotation of the links I could not control with this design. If I had the frame end of the upper link on the frame, I don't think the axle would be able to rotate, even if the upper link was paralell to the lower link (instead of angled in to the top of the diff).

I don't know about pulling to one side when braking.

This suspension, even after plating my links into radius arms, exceeds my wheeling requirements and expectations, I wanted a good all purpose rig with a bias to the trail, and it works for my needs.

The tires do not rub the coilovers at compression

I tried to design for 4" compression and 8" extension, to get more extension I'd need longer links and I think I would get into drive shaft binding issues.

and finally, it's not fabrication skills :flipoff2:
 
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