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The tires do not rub the coilovers at compression

I tried to design for 4" compression and 8" extension, to get more extension I'd need longer links and I think I would get into drive shaft binding issues.

and finally, it's not fabrication skills :flipoff2:
Have you ever measured or observed how close the tires get to the coils at compression? I saw that your at roughly 63" WMS-WMS and designed the width around tire clearance to the frame when turning. I didn't see any discussion regarding design considerations for coil clearance. I'm asking because I want to my front to be a little narrower than that.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #242
Ok, this is the best I can do for you today...


This is the compressed side, but you can see it is not fully on the bumpstop.



Here is the extended side



and here is the ramp...



So, this also tests the "after plating" and I can say I have flexed on this hill enough to say I did not reduce my articulation by any noticeable amount:D:D

The links are still in in the verticle position too.
 

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Have you ever measured or observed how close the tires get to the coils at compression? I saw that your at roughly 63" WMS-WMS and designed the width around tire clearance to the frame when turning. I didn't see any discussion regarding design considerations for coil clearance. I'm asking because I want to my front to be a little narrower than that.

Thanks
How narrow is to narrow on these little scouts? I have a 67 that I just put a 60" wms rear 60 under it and I don't really want to go any wider when I build the front 60 if I can get away with it. I am more comcerned with turning with 37's. I am also going to link the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
How narrow is to narrow on these little scouts? I have a 67 that I just put a 60" wms rear 60 under it and I don't really want to go any wider when I build the front 60 if I can get away with it. I am more comcerned with turning with 37's. I am also going to link the front.
I don't rub with my 35's because I added the 3"+/- to the axle.

Narrower axle and bigger tires will rub on the frame and limit turning radius.
 

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How narrow is to narrow on these little scouts? I have a 67 that I just put a 60" wms rear 60 under it and I don't really want to go any wider when I build the front 60 if I can get away with it. I am more comcerned with turning with 37's. I am also going to link the front.
I want to go 59 inches WMS-WMS in the rear and 60 inches in the front. Basically Scout II width. This should put the tread on the tires (315/75R16 on 16x8) I have just inside the wheel well in the rear.

I watched Buck figure out his front end width and followed the logic and do not think I could get to 60 inches in the front without limiting the turning radius too much. I’m using a Chevy ¾ ton Dana 44 with a 69 inch WMS-WMS in front. Right now there is 41 inches between the tires when turned to lock so I can narrow the front 6 inches and not rub the 35 inch wide frame. Walla! I’m right at 63 inches which Buck ended up with but still want to go narrower. In reality the width I end up with is going to be determined by which axle shafts I end up using. The early math shows 61-1/2 to 62 inches is probable.

Buck, I don’t intend to hijack your thread. My planning on my project just seems to verify what you did.
 

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if you had to do it again would you have not ran a joint on the upper links that attach to the lower links? I want to do this to my scout at some point with coils for the front, I have a 89 Ford 60 so I am wide and have the pumpkin offest to the drivers side a ways
 

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Discussion Starter #247 (Edited)
if you had to do it again would you have not ran a joint on the upper links that attach to the lower links? I want to do this to my scout at some point with coils for the front, I have a 89 Ford 60 so I am wide and have the pumpkin offest to the drivers side a ways
If I did this again...

I think I would would run a straight radius arm like Tom's in Post #230. I would also be willing to run the a little longer arm than I have now, and give up a little ground clearance on the bottom of the frame, maybe up to 6" longer.

If I was going to trailer this to the trails, I would consider trying to get triangulated upper links from the axle to the frame.

I am very happy with the all purposness :homer: of the finished product, for my needs it works very well. At this point I just want to drive the piss out of it for a while.

Who likes jackstands anyway...
 

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Discussion Starter #249
So my piece of crap Hardon Power steering pump went out this weekend. I wouldn't think 35's would require a upgrade in Power steering pumps...
The one thing I am doing is running a small 3" pully which would make the pump spin faster and potentially build more heat.

Does anyone run a stock Scout II power steering pump with 35's or larger without problems?
 

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So my piece of crap Hardon Power steering pump went out this weekend. I wouldn't think 35's would require a upgrade in Power steering pumps...
The one thing I am doing is running a small 3" pully which would make the pump spin faster and potentially build more heat.

Does anyone run a stock Scout II power steering pump with 35's or larger without problems?

We ran 35's on a stock Scout II PS pump on Rockscout. Had 0 problems even with all the crap we put it through while on course. I don't know if it still is, I think Dboy upgraded the steering to hyrdo-assist for the current owner. I don't know if he changed the pump or not, but until then it had the same pump that was on the engine when binderbound bought it.
 

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Diesel Smoke:14217575 said:
So my piece of crap Hardon Power steering pump went out this weekend. I wouldn't think 35's would require a upgrade in Power steering pumps...
The one thing I am doing is running a small 3" pully which would make the pump spin faster and potentially build more heat.

Does anyone run a stock Scout II power steering pump with 35's or larger without problems?

We ran 35's on a stock Scout II PS pump on Rockscout. Had 0 problems even with all the crap we put it through while on course. I don't know if it still is, I think Dboy upgraded the steering to hyrdo-assist for the current owner. I don't know if he changed the pump or not, but until then it had the same pump that was on the engine when binderbound bought it.
On rock scout I went with a psc pump to handle the hydro-assist and hydro-boost I added. Nice unit, little pricey but for something as important as steering and braking it was well worth it.
 

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I ran a stock Scout II pump with 36" tires. I did the 'high-flow' mod to it and added a cooler (cheapie transmission cooler).

It would get hot once in a while. But seemed to work fine.

I ended up switching to some junk yard pump with a bigger pullie after a while, I think it was when I cooked a PS Box and filled the whole system with metal bits...

Then I added hydro-assist and it all still worked fine. Then... my PS BOX crapped out again... Then.... :rolleyes:
 

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I ran my stock SII pump with 37" Claws for about 3 years with no issues. Run a Ford Exploder hi-efficiency cooler on the low side, that will help. I finally went to a PSC pump last year when I upgraded to 40's and ram as "preventative measure".
 

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Hey Scott, do you want to come to browns camp June 28th through july 1st? Me and a friend are going in his jeep. We may have a few of the club members come too
 

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I am in the process of fixing this. The new pump is the same as the 3/4 ton Chev, new PS filter, new 6" pully, and more holes in the inner fender...
That should do it. I was running my stocker with no "pressure" mod with Hydroboost brakes forever. It held up
 

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Discussion Starter #259
I bought myself some flares for Fathers day. These are TBP Ultra Flex for Early Broncos. These installed easily and seem to provide a good amount of clearance for us baby Scouts.

I am stock width on the rear and +3" on the front axle. I looked at the Silverbacks Guido installed, but they would be too wide for my axles. The Silverbacks look like a great option for the full width crowd.



 
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