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Discussion Starter #81
IMO, it does and doesn't.

It helps at full droop, no doubt, but it puts the driveshaft even higher at full bump - and in my SOA Scout, I have issues with the driveshaft hitting the bottom of the front of the transmission pan with a low pinion front diff, despite lowering the front bump stops 2-3" - which wasn't enough until I raised the engine a touch and put in the air bumps.

Also, Buck, if your suspension doesn't bind at full droop, you want some limit straps (old Scout seat belt straps can be pressed into service) to keep from tearing the shocks apart on the rare occasion you let it droop all the way out.

Limit straps are cheaper than shock shafts and new seals. BTDT

On the engine bar - or lack of - the problem is the repeated stress on the frame where the shock towers are trying to rotate the frame every time you hit a speed bump.

Eventually you get metal fatigue and the shock towers rip from the frame.

I'm on the accelerated metal fatigue program here, but the lesson learned carries across to casual wheelers, too.

Plus, all the cool kids have an engine bar.
Those stinkin' cool kids...
Just when I get my coilovers, they get their fancy smancy engine bars.

They have tube benders too...

I have my bump stops on the way and the seat belts, ahem Limit Straps, are in the works, and I promise they will have that agricultural flair that is so embodied in the cornbinder spirit. I just love the idea of a quick disconnect limit strap:D.
 

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What is the best way to transition from the stock 800 steering shaft to the Scout II steering box?
Do you have the long or the short Scout steering shaft? The short one will be easier to mod, but I'd guess you can do it with the long one, too. Pull off/cut off the stock bell on the shaft, grind 2 flats on it to match and weld or bolt a steering u-joint on the end. Check Speedway motors (or Summit, Jeg's etc. Speedway is a few bucks cheaper) steering u-joint selection, DD shaft (if needed), count splines and match up what you need to match your steering box.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Do you have the long or the short Scout steering shaft? The short one will be easier to mod, but I'd guess you can do it with the long one, too. Pull off/cut off the stock bell on the shaft, grind 2 flats on it to match and weld or bolt a steering u-joint on the end. Check Speedway motors (or Summit, Jeg's etc. Speedway is a few bucks cheaper) steering u-joint selection, DD shaft (if needed), count splines and match up what you need to match your steering box.
Thanks for the info, I should be doing this swap in the morning, so I'll figure out what steering joint I need to order (nobody in town carries any steering joints).

I found all my old power steering stuff, and for a few moments I thought, screw reliability, I'll just bold these on... But no, I am resisting temptation and my normal "cheap bastard" ways, and I'm going to use these parts for mock up and cores.

What's another $250.00 in the grand scheme...:shaking:
 

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Thanks for the info, I should be doing this swap in the morning, so I'll figure out what steering joint I need to order (nobody in town carries any steering joints).

I found all my old power steering stuff, and for a few moments I thought, screw reliability, I'll just bold these on... But no, I am resisting temptation and my normal "cheap bastard" ways, and I'm going to use these parts for mock up and cores.

What's another $250.00 in the grand scheme...:shaking:
I made a steering shaft piece on my last non-PS to PS swap.



I cut the input shaft end off the non ps box (which matched the input splines on the borgeson u-joint that was going on the input to the new PS box) and cut the ball/bell joint off the big u-joint on the steering column. Beveled the edges of the two shafts - butt welded them together - hit the welded butt with the grinder to keep the diameter about the same at the weld. Slipped a piece of tube over the welded area - Welded it on tight. So there are 3 welds holding it all together. As safe or safer than a rag joint I figured.
 

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
Its amazing, if you cut enough, anything will fit...

The Scout II PS box required a bit of massaging to get in there. Most 800's don't have a big stinkin' shock tower sitting where the steering shaft needs to go.:shaking:




compared to the stock position on a Scout II



The good news is I moved the box forward, and tilted it upwards, at the same 12° angle of the stock box, and it looks like I'll be able to use the stock couplings without changing the shaft length.

After the big test to see what ride height is going to be, I decided to change the axle shock mounts. The ride height was lower than I expected, and I want to give myself more room for the bumpstops and uptravel.

I had some inner C shock mounts and I welded a set on one side.



Compared to the other mounts, I raised the mount about 2"



And finally, I picked up paint.

Gold Chrome... :smokin:



Don't you think that's better than hammer finished charcoal like the back?
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Mexi chrome!:homer:
Voting closed, it's the charcoal hammer finish...

I completed the fabbing on the axle. I finished the higher shock mounts and reinforced the top of the radius mounts.



I started tearing down the old axle, and it seems all those big mud puddles I've been going through ended up in the axle.:shaking:

It's a good time for a some new wheel bearings, and maybe I will put on the extended vent breathers.

I quite suprised I have not spit out the axle u-joints. And also, to the guy on youtube that changes ball joints in 5 minutes,FO... I expect that wasn't his first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
Well the issue of the day is the axle seals in the diff housing.

At best, Randy's shipped the incorrect seals, at worst, the new 3" x 1/2" wall axle tubing I used for the long side, fucked things up and I can't obtain a seal that would incert in the new axle tube.:mad3:

Somewhere in the middle, I hope the original 78 Bronco housing seals work, and I can find them in stock on Saturday.

I may be able to increase my options by a smaller seals that would insert down the axle tube farther than you would typically see and I was considering using RVT to get a seal between the housing and the seal. The stock rubber will form a good seal between the axle and the seal.

This is what comes up for a stock Scout and lots of other rigs.



If I resolve this seal issue, I can complete the gear swap in 1/2 an hour, paint the axle, I got in the other Ballistic Bushing for the second upper link, and have all the parts for the steering swap.



I'd love to finish this today or tomorrow.:shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Do you have a ballpark number on how much the link conversion parts ran you?
My God! What kind of question is that! What if my wife saw this, I'd have another horse:flipoff2:

I have three main projects, so it seems like a lot more. I have the high pinion plus gear swap, the power steering conversion and the link set up.

For the link set up, I'd figure $50 per joint, and bracket average, let's say $400 - $550, including panhard.

The shocks were $200 each with the double spring kit and then springs run $55-$70 each new and $30-$50 for good used.

Then the drive shaft conversion on top of that, also you need to do the steering links for either a high steer or the flip certs with TRE's.

I probably have $500-$650 in my axle conversion project and $250 to $350 in the power steering conversion. This will end up with a complete rebuild of the front axle, ALL components, all new wheel bearings and seals and new rebuilt parts for the power steering conversion.

The toughest thing on the whole project has been to switch from the typical Scout "cheap bastard" mentality to the "may as well do it right for a change" mind set.
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
Well the issue of the day is the axle seals in the diff housing.

At best, Randy's shipped the incorrect seals, at worst, the new 3" x 1/2" wall axle tubing I used for the long side, fucked things up and I can't obtain a seal that would incert in the new axle tube.:mad3:

Somewhere in the middle, I hope the original 78 Bronco housing seals work, and I can find them in stock on Saturday.

I may be able to increase my options by a smaller seals that would insert down the axle tube farther than you would typically see and I was considering using RVT to get a seal between the housing and the seal. The stock rubber will form a good seal between the axle and the seal.

This is what comes up for a stock Scout and lots of other rigs.



If I resolve this seal issue, I can complete the gear swap in 1/2 an hour, paint the axle, I got in the other Ballistic Bushing for the second upper link, and have all the parts for the steering swap.



I'd love to finish this today or tomorrow.:shaking:
If anyone does the hi pinion swapping, pay attention ot those pesky axle seals. I was able to find the correct part. The portion that is suppose to go down the axle tube has a flange with about a 2-3/16" OD, My tubes are about 2-1/8, so I was able to do a little work with the belt grinder and it worked fine. These seals were a relatively loose fit so I used the RVT to secure them in place and it worked fine.

I got the gear swap done, cover on and painted the whole thing. I also got the axle u joints done and 3/4 of the ball joints done.

I'm quite sure I won't be done tomorrow...
 

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Ouch!! I assume if fell out of the pocket, vs High frequency from the TIG welder taking it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Ouch!! I assume if fell out of the pocket, vs High frequency from the TIG welder taking it out.
Not quite sure what happened. I have dent with a cresent cut right near the iPhone on the back. I'm pretty sure it is right over the part of the phone that makes everything work...:shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
No pics due to the iPhone incident...

I spent most of the weekend assembling the axle and compensating for the hybred aspects of the axle construction.

The issues I ran into were the inner axle seal needed to be identified and modified due to the 1/2" axle tube, and the outside of the same 1/2" tube needed a smidge of work. The OAL of the tube was fine for the stock Scout II length, but the thickness of the tube infringed on the axle shaft. The length was fine, but the inside opening of the tube needed to be champhered to let clear the slinger like flange on the axle shaft.

I did a little on the power steering pump and had to open up a little more of that poor inner fender...

I got stopped on the assemby of the axle due to 2 stripped outer knuckle to spindle studs. It's all the little things like this that take the fun out of it...

I should be down to build the second upper link, button up the drive shaft, mount the powersteering gear box and then install the axle.


Shouldn't take long at all.:shaking:
 

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Buck, sounds like you're at the point of the build everyone hates, where all the little crap pops up:( Builds looking good though:smokin:

Had the same thing happen to my zune when I was working in the garage, but I only took out the screen. Learned from that to always have the screen against my leg, with the 'shell' towards the outside. Sounds like you had it like that and still wacked it on something, must have been a good hit. Hell, my Touch still works after being thrown at a wall, the back cover just likes to fall off:laughing:
 

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lookin good dude, I talked to Matt, and he said you had a thread going on. youre gunna love the links up front versus your old 80 springs! keep up the good work and we'll have to get together again when i get back to Oregon, it'll be in sep. for Jesse's wedding.......laters......chris
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Buck, sounds like you're at the point of the build everyone hates, where all the little crap pops up:( Builds looking good though:smokin:
Yes, I'm at that point, but I think I have most of the stuff now, except a fan belt for power steering, so the weekend might be productive. Iand I have another IPhone so I can provide suitable documentation...
 
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