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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got my front axle off my cruiser and now I got some questions.I know i am going to have to go high steer and was wondering if all I will need is arms and who sells them for the best price and best quality.I also know that I need to cut and turn the knuckles.I've heard of a few people that used a grinder to get through the housing and others that used an industrial pipe cutter;what works best? I'm ready to tackle it but does anyone near Ft. collins CO. want to do a cut and turn for cheap?
Give me lot's of feedback, thanks.
 

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You really should do a search to see what has already been hashed over on this board.

As for the Hy steer. You will also need a new tierod and draglink. Short of that you are okay. (have you actually looked at any of the kits on the market?)

Grinder vs pipe cutter. It is entirely up to you. Both work just fine.

I believe that Proffit just offered to do cut and turns for people in the Denver area for cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yah that was my post that Proffit replied to, but I think he's on the western slope. I did a search for high steer on this forum but couldn't find much. On line I could find only a few companies that make the set up.
 

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IH8MUD.COM
ck out this link woody has GREAT stuff in the tech pages and when you do yours take pics and send them to him to add...



and search....
oh and welcome newbie :D



kling-on A.K.A. Joel
 

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About the cut and turn of knuckles

I have done a few of the knuckle turns both by the pipe cutter way and now via a lathe (the proper way)!! The best way i could help you, if you're gonna do it in your garage is this way: completely disassemble your diff assembly. Then take a grinder and carefully remove the welds on the ends of the tubes. do this until you have an even surface equal to the tubes diameter. Then you can take the pipe cutter and go round and round and round.
you will go through the outer tube after a little while. then stop and you can put a long bar through the bearing race holes in the end of the tubes and turn your outer ball to your desired caster.
make sure you use the same reference point for both side to determine your caster degrees. This way at least you will have an equal amount of caster to the diff assembly. Then when you've checked a few hundred times check it again, just to be sure, and then do the best penetrating weld you can. (Splash weld). Then you can reassemble your diff.
Any other questions, like what degrees for caster and such, just ask. I have found that about 3-5 degrees is best for highway driving and wheeling and easier on your steering components.

Kruzrtek
 
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