muddogbob said:
Thanks for the input guys.
snip...
Berne, how well do you think everything will fit with the 38s and 2.5" springs? Also, what about drive train reliability turning those size tires? I've been looking at rear disc break options, but haven't seen anything too great. What setup are you running? The best be I can see is dropping $500 on a Downey kit.
The 36's fit fine without any lift. I do have SOME rubbing at full lock, but I still ramped like 875 with no name shocks on the back. The biggest thing will be that the springs will be NEW. I'll get more lift than just 2 1/2"; more like 3 1/2". The 38's will fit fine. Like you, I don't do any hardcore stuff, just GSMTR and National Forest stuff. Nothing big. Side hilling in my truck isn't *quite* as tippy as maybe in Henry's, but they're different animals. I ran my 60 for 4 months without shocks because I wanted to flatten the springs. That, and when I built it, I couldn't reach the center console from the ground.
IN terms of actually making the tires turn, I don't think I will have any problems. The 2F I have is warmed over and really pulls like you would not believe. I was going to do a full rebuild this summer, but I’m now considering just re-ringing it, checking the clearance on the bearings, and replacing the stuff that should be replaced (oil pump, etc). It runs too well to screw with. I will be adding fuel injection in some form, adding 4.88's, and the Fairey overdrive. I don't see any problem with turning 2200 rpm at 75 mph.
Reliability...hmmm...I hadn't really given it any thought, to be honest. It is a Toyota, right? Everything seems tight. I'll replace the u-joints (for the first time), replace my mounts (not for the first time), and just maintain it. With a truck this size and with those type of tires, you're constantly tightening things. I was shocked that within 100 of building the SO, every nut and bolt was loose. I spent at least 2 hours tightening everything.
Even now, I have to check my driveshaft bolt periodically, and I've taken out my front t-case output collar from things being too loose, so there are some issues, but like anything, you learn what works and what you have to deal with over time, and get used to it.
My truck has been my driver for 4 years Sprung-over either on 35's or 36's. I drove it for the first year I had it on 31's, but that sucked, so I try to block it from my memory.

Driveline issues when it comes to reliability have been minimal, limited to motor mounts (drivers side - fairly common due to leverage), and usual wear and tear for a truck with 275K miles on it.
From my understanding, the disk brake "kit" for the 60's is still either in development, or stalled, at JTO. I bought the brackets, but because of the way the 60 axle is built, they need to be spaced further back toward the pumpkin (like 1/2" or 3/4") in order to clear the calipers and rotors. I've seen these brackets, and I know someone who has the prototypes, but I’ve heard nothing lately about them. I'm amassing parts for when my work area is finished this summer and I take some time off from work to work on my trucks. I'll keep the list posted as to where I finally find the bracketry. I'd like to stay all Toyota, just for parts interchangability, but there comes the issue of the e-brake. I'd like to see someone adapt the case mounted disc brake, but we'll see.
Since you truck is a 62, I don't what you can do as far as power goes. I would remove your catalytic converter (if it's legal

)
and run the JBA look-alike shorty headers. I'm sure there is talk about power increases on the 3FE list constantly, so beyond increasing fuel and air, I can't tell you much.
Good luck.
Rob