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66 Buick Riviera GS, 78 FJ40, 82 FJ60, 87 Samurai, 00 Tundra, 07 Tundra CM 4x4, ‘21 Rivian R1T soon!
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I'm pm'd you, but I’ll respond publicly to the other topics.

37's and 17's would be cool. And necessary with the extra 3" of lift.

I run 36's with stock springs. They rub a little. When the rebuild comes I’m going with 2 1/2" springs and 38's. Should be fine.

I like the idea of running the bigger rim. Sidewall strength is a big issue when it comes to these heavy rigs perched up high. A smaller aspect ratio can only be a good thing when it comes to the sway issue.

AllPro makes a really good high steer arm, but there seem to be a lot of companies out there now who are making them. Shop around.

Traction bar is a must have with a flexy suspension. Don't know what it's like with the OME, but designs vary. I like the ones that follow the driveshaft, acting not only as a traction ball, but also as a protector against candy-caning your DS. Many companies make (Spidertrax is one) the necessary materials to make your own. I'm not aware of anyone who makes a specific FJ60 traction bar.

The perches are Mopar items. Check the LCML archives and you should find the PN pretty fast

http://www.birfield.com/archives/html/landcruisers/

I'd have some hoops made for the front. You can preload them, too, but I don't know if that's necessary. I think people like Mudrak www.mudrak.com can make you what you need.

The other options you have are the Ford F-250 Shock towers. Not too expensive, and a lot of people go that route. Though I think that with a custom suspension a fixed length tower won't be your best bet.

As with any project, there are variables that you introduce that make it hard to say that one thing will work better than another. Best to make a lot of measurements after the springs go in. Drive it a little sans shocks to let the springs settle, then measure everything to get it right. I like Doestch Tech for shocks. Expensive, but you get a quality product. Talk to Joe Calleja at CTS in Colorado, he knows his stuff.

I would wait until you've gotten shocks and towers worked out to install the traction bar, too. Let things get loose and retighten them before you restrict it to the point that you can't tell if they're loose.

Few things you might also consider:

Rear disks. Lots of tire + Lots of weight = hard to stop. Rear disks will help out alot.

Your front axle. How far is it from the front output shaft to the front pinion? Are you going to need to cut-and-turn the front axle? Will there be a crossmember in the way of the front driveshaft once it's angle of operation is changed dramatically?

Driveshafts: You'll likely need them lengthened. If you cut-and-turn the front axle, you'll need a cv up top. Same in the rear. If you point the rear diff up a little, you'll need a cv at the top to eliminate the chance of vibration.

Replace your transmission/t-case mount (The rubber one) and both your motor mounts. Trust me on this one. The stress put on these mounts is tremendous, and the old ones break easily. (ask me how i know)

Good Luck!

HTH.

Rob
 

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66 Buick Riviera GS, 78 FJ40, 82 FJ60, 87 Samurai, 00 Tundra, 07 Tundra CM 4x4, ‘21 Rivian R1T soon!
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250 Posts
muddogbob said:
Thanks for the input guys.

snip...
Berne, how well do you think everything will fit with the 38s and 2.5" springs? Also, what about drive train reliability turning those size tires? I've been looking at rear disc break options, but haven't seen anything too great. What setup are you running? The best be I can see is dropping $500 on a Downey kit.
The 36's fit fine without any lift. I do have SOME rubbing at full lock, but I still ramped like 875 with no name shocks on the back. The biggest thing will be that the springs will be NEW. I'll get more lift than just 2 1/2"; more like 3 1/2". The 38's will fit fine. Like you, I don't do any hardcore stuff, just GSMTR and National Forest stuff. Nothing big. Side hilling in my truck isn't *quite* as tippy as maybe in Henry's, but they're different animals. I ran my 60 for 4 months without shocks because I wanted to flatten the springs. That, and when I built it, I couldn't reach the center console from the ground. :rolleyes:

IN terms of actually making the tires turn, I don't think I will have any problems. The 2F I have is warmed over and really pulls like you would not believe. I was going to do a full rebuild this summer, but I’m now considering just re-ringing it, checking the clearance on the bearings, and replacing the stuff that should be replaced (oil pump, etc). It runs too well to screw with. I will be adding fuel injection in some form, adding 4.88's, and the Fairey overdrive. I don't see any problem with turning 2200 rpm at 75 mph. :)

Reliability...hmmm...I hadn't really given it any thought, to be honest. It is a Toyota, right? Everything seems tight. I'll replace the u-joints (for the first time), replace my mounts (not for the first time), and just maintain it. With a truck this size and with those type of tires, you're constantly tightening things. I was shocked that within 100 of building the SO, every nut and bolt was loose. I spent at least 2 hours tightening everything.

Even now, I have to check my driveshaft bolt periodically, and I've taken out my front t-case output collar from things being too loose, so there are some issues, but like anything, you learn what works and what you have to deal with over time, and get used to it.

My truck has been my driver for 4 years Sprung-over either on 35's or 36's. I drove it for the first year I had it on 31's, but that sucked, so I try to block it from my memory. :) Driveline issues when it comes to reliability have been minimal, limited to motor mounts (drivers side - fairly common due to leverage), and usual wear and tear for a truck with 275K miles on it.

From my understanding, the disk brake "kit" for the 60's is still either in development, or stalled, at JTO. I bought the brackets, but because of the way the 60 axle is built, they need to be spaced further back toward the pumpkin (like 1/2" or 3/4") in order to clear the calipers and rotors. I've seen these brackets, and I know someone who has the prototypes, but I’ve heard nothing lately about them. I'm amassing parts for when my work area is finished this summer and I take some time off from work to work on my trucks. I'll keep the list posted as to where I finally find the bracketry. I'd like to stay all Toyota, just for parts interchangability, but there comes the issue of the e-brake. I'd like to see someone adapt the case mounted disc brake, but we'll see.

Since you truck is a 62, I don't what you can do as far as power goes. I would remove your catalytic converter (if it's legal ;) )
and run the JBA look-alike shorty headers. I'm sure there is talk about power increases on the 3FE list constantly, so beyond increasing fuel and air, I can't tell you much.

Good luck.

Rob
 

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66 Buick Riviera GS, 78 FJ40, 82 FJ60, 87 Samurai, 00 Tundra, 07 Tundra CM 4x4, ‘21 Rivian R1T soon!
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250 Posts
Henry,

Thanks for the update. I hadn't realized that it was a possibility to buy the stuf off the shelf. Is it specific to the split case?

Will you elaborate on the reliability of the toyota rear discs?

I wasn't saying that your truck had stability issues, it's just a lot taller than mine. I also lack the relative experience with the ome springs, so i can't comment. I just think you need 38's :D :D :D Your truck would look kick-ass on some big honking meats.

I think that i'm also just used to the swinging my truck does in the offcamber stuff. I do remember you're truck being a lot more stable on the highway than mine.

When i do finally roll my 60 , i'll make a line on the dash the says "if the horizon matches this line, you're Phucked"

My springs, knock on wood, have held up surprisingly well for stock springs. I had the same fears when i first did it; that my springs would not hold up and that, sooner or later, i would be buying new springs.

I suppose i've just gotten lucky. I plan on having a custom setup made locally whent he time comes.

Having the benefit of 4 years of daily driving has given my quite a bit of windshield time to calculate my options and what i want out of my truck. I suspect most of us are looking for that cross between capability and reliabilty, without sacrificing strength.

TO change the subject a bit, what have y'all heard about Matkins frames?

rob
 

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66 Buick Riviera GS, 78 FJ40, 82 FJ60, 87 Samurai, 00 Tundra, 07 Tundra CM 4x4, ‘21 Rivian R1T soon!
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250 Posts
Ah ha, somewhere in the fog that is my memory, i recall talk of this concept of freeplay being an issue in the rdb setup. I'll dig.

I'm sure the cost of doing a toyota only setup is more than other avenues, i just like the idea of being all toyota, not to mention being able to swap front to rear, etc.

See, you actually have sway bars. Must be neat. I carry 500 pounds in the back at all times, and i have no problems, but the other day i put another 1000 pounds into her, and i had some issues with sway. (I'm going to need sway bars eventually - you got the links from Drew Persson, right? Website?)

Odd that it didn't sag and the ride was fine other than the fact that semi's made me bobble drunkenly. :D

Regretfully, she's gotten too big to drive to work every day - no can fit into the garage.

I picked up a 40 for those duties. :)
Rob
 

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66 Buick Riviera GS, 78 FJ40, 82 FJ60, 87 Samurai, 00 Tundra, 07 Tundra CM 4x4, ‘21 Rivian R1T soon!
Joined
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250 Posts
Yeah, the big brown one was interesting. Perfect for college, that's about it. More fun than a fat girl and a case o'beer, but like all good things, it had to go. :)

Here's a pic:



Bone stock 1977. Nothing's been done, nothing's been changed, nada. Totally unmolested. hard to believe. I've even got the bill of sale and the radio block off plate.
 
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