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Discussion Starter #1
Doing the search & research thing - just want some general comments, hints, don't do's from the peanut section :flipoff2: :

some general info: I will be doing this on my 1990 YJ. right now this is how I'm set up: 3.5 superlift springs, 4.56 gears, OX lockers front and back, SYE, dana 30 & dana 35C (I know, I know, but they have served me well for 123,000 miles). Here in Missouri there's not many rocks, so I mostly do 6 or 7 rated trails (on a scale of 10), I go easy on the skinny pedal, 2.5 4 banger. :)
By the way, i plan on running 33's

Here's what I plan to do, based on my experience and what I have researched: Put stock springs back on, I will be adding a full length main spring to each pack. I plan on leaving the spring retainers bent like this l_l, drilling them and installing a bolt through the top. I still have the stock bump stops bolted on, so this should keep my springs from inverting.
Most of the other mods are basic, not sure if I am going to relocate shock mounts, still thinking on that one.
My main question is around steering. I plan on keeping the dana 30, and doing a high steer set-up. However i don't feel like donating lots of $$$ for a ready made set-up. From what I've found I can swap knuckles and fabricate lots of this myself. I 've probably overlooked some info, so i'm not sure where to get my donor knuckles from, need some info here, still searching.

So what do ya think, flame away :flipoff2:
 

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I would wait and measure for shock when it is done. Then you can get what you really need.
As for steering, if you are gong to replace the 30 in the future, I would just run a dropped pitman arm for now and not throw anymore money into something you will just be getting rid of.
 

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we did this on my friends YJ. Ur gonna be TALL. u wont want 33"s when ur done with it. my friend is now running 36's and it looks right.
 

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SOA w/ or w/o the extra main will be tall for the 33's. I would say 35's at least. As for the steering, swap on some older cj d30 knuckles and do a high steer set up. Sound like you know what needs to be done. Like previously stated, mock up the shocks after all the bugs are worked out.
 

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sw99 said:
As for the steering, swap on some older cj d30 knuckles and do a high steer set up.
CJ knuckles aren't high steer compatible. The closest thing a CJ knuckle will get to high steer is to use one of the swap kits that put the tie-rod on the top of the steering arm. They aren't flat top so you can't bolt on true high steer arms.

CJ knuckles won't swap onto a YJ anyhow. The ball joint configuration is completely different. It would require cutting off the YJ inner knuckle from the axle tube and grafting CJ inner knuckles on them.
 

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I go easy on the skinny pedal, 2.5 4 banger
Whats to worry about? Things will break but with a 4 cylinder you can get on it.

My buddy just swapped in axles off of a full sized leaf sprung bronco and was happy. He had 3.53's in the diffs. So that way you get an axle upgrade with fullsize with also. Your gonna be tall so width is a plus. High steer would be mill, drill, tap, buy high steer arms, buy doe walled tubing, tap, buy TRE, and go.
 

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CSP said:
CJ knuckles aren't high steer compatible. The closest thing a CJ knuckle will get to high steer is to use one of the swap kits that put the tie-rod on the top of the steering arm. They aren't flat top so you can't bolt on true high steer arms.

CJ knuckles won't swap onto a YJ anyhow. The ball joint configuration is completely different. It would require cutting off the YJ inner knuckle from the axle tube and grafting CJ inner knuckles on them.
That sucks, I was under the impression that the older knuckles were the same as the D44 ones and that hi-Steer could be done.
 

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What is wrong with your current setup if you are only running 33s? You lookin for more flex? You said you didn't have many rocks...
 

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I'm SOA with stock sagged YJ Springs on 32's adn am just fine....in fact I don't think 35's would fit without some sheetmetal gettin cut off, I can stuff the 32's into the flares :D So I would suggest that you throw the stock springs in by themselves with out the added leaf and see where things sit....you can always add them later. I also left the spring clamps closed and am plenty happy with the flex, I have no need for anymore and I run as much rock as I can get into with 33's :flipoff2: As far as steerin just throw a drop pitman arm on it and wheel, I wouldn't spend all the money for highsteer till you start wheelin hard enough to swap some different axles
 

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Some issues your going to have to deal with here.

You need the added main leaf, left stock the springs will sag fast.

33's are max, 35's will rub, been there, done that.

Your drag link will try to share space with the pass side spring, a bent draglink is not a solution and a drop pitman arm wont help. Again, been there done that.

You will need a traction bar of some sort, axle wrap is a bad thing and you will have it.

Stock bumpstops, you wont ever get close to them, build some drop down brackets for them. Your springs will thank you.

Unless you build something like the MORE high steer arm for the drag link, your going to have fun getting it in there.

You'll have to redrill the mounting holes for your emergency brake cables a bit lower to get them to hook up right.


Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys for all of the help. sorry i didn't respond sooner, was working this weekend (12 hr. shifts). In rethinking what I plan to do with the jeep, and doing more searching about SOA and SUA, I may just modify my current set-up. I found several things to do to my S/L springs to get more flex, which would be free, (key word here). I think I will also remove my body lift
(1 inch), throw on some TJ rear flares, and flat fender the front, or do tube fenders. That way I can run 33's, and have a lower center of gravity than a spring over (major plus), and then wheel the shit out of it :D
 

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Sell it to somebody who does'nt know anything. Im sure its fairly capable with ox lockers, and 4.56's so sell it. You can probably get a decent price for it from the right kid. But you already have to much cash tied up in gears, and lockers in useless axles. Cut your losses and start over.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Useless axles? :mad3: :flipoff2: maybe you didn't read my original post their dick breath. For the type of wheeling I do, they serve my need just fine. If at all possible, I plan to wheel it for another 100,000 with those same axles. as for as cutting losses, I've put 30,000 on it since doing gears and lockers, I think I'm getting my moneys worth.
 
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