Thats what I'm talking about, I need good feedback to help improve the design instead of just telling me its not gonna work because that doesn't help, go figure. Yes there's a lot of flaws on the design especially since I had to cut the hanger plates to move the axle more forward, and the does sacrifice a lot of strength since its a cantilever now it'll be in more stress then before, I did however lower the plates by a few inches, the reason my there so long is because I had pretty long shackles laying around and by keeping the oe dana 44 axle perch locations I needed another way to better the pinion angle and adding any kind of blocks was out of the question because the high steer arm sits just above the springs so the steering link would hit the spring if it was any higher. And the cantilever hangers are not just going to stay like that, I first need to space then out so the springs are at a good distance from each other on the front and back then ill have a cross brace welded in between to they dont move side to side.(the welds on on the plates and the rectantular tubings are not good ill admit but they do have penitration, ive checked also i think i had either wire speed or amperage too high) the im trying to make is to that when the truck is on its own weight it's not gonna religh on thise welds for supports or to keep it up. for that i will be boxing the hanger plates making sure i have really good welds from here on out. along with that ill have 2 tubes from the back of those plates that will tigh in to the factory crossmember location which till also be reinforced and boxed in since i cut it off. one tube will be on the top half and the other on the bottom half, these will be the main supports of those hangers fo ill have to do lots of prep and heat and thick ass welds. this is all a little confusong to explain so ill try to make a drawing.I think what we've all been suggesting is that your build is unsafe. I tried to be subtle, but maybe direct is better. In addition to poor design, it's structurally unsound. Your welds are cold and have little penetration. Your material is too thin for the leverage placed on it. And I don't think that your planning was nearly as bad as your execution. Sometime, we just have bad plans. I've been there.
Sadly we've seen this type of build before. There is a reason you don't see the builds still around with tens of thousands of views....they broke.
I don't like the old Pirate approach. Pirate used to be a rough neighborhood. 30 different readers would throw a tantrum and call you names in an attempt to get you to stop, or fix it. It discouraged folks from enjoying this hobby.
So here is some specific feedback:
Don't cantilever your brackets - There are plenty of 52 and 56" leaf spring trucks with far less cantilever
If your brackets are longer than, say 5", use 5/16" or even 3/8". There is no need for your brackets to be as long as they are.
Lower it overall - read through some build threads and see how others did it. You'll see a trend for larger tires and lower lifts. I've seen 44" tires tastefully put on trucks with 4-6" of lift. And they actually work really well.
Your welds are not stellar. They're not the worst I've seen either. Don't let a consistent looking weld trick you into thinking it's strong or safe. You need more heat!
Prior to welding anything, grind the metal smooth and clean. Make sure there is no scale OR RUST on it. It'll make welding easier and it'll look better.
I don't want to discourage your from continuing your build. But it looks like something we'd have called garbage 15 years ago. And we've learned so much since then. Please enjoy your project. Even keep us posted. But for the love of all that his holy, make it safe!
He's definitely got mot money into it lol and I have an idea for the shackle mounts already but since mu springs are so long having it tucked in would interfere with some stuff ill have to check againI'm really glad that you have an open mind. That'll make your build progress a lot smoother.
Take a look at this build I found in the Chevy forum.
I started this build a 1 1/2 years ago and been working on it as the money comes in. I bought the ORD leaf spring perches and I am using 6" springs in the front with F250 superduty rear spring I narrowed the front 12" through a little trial and error it turned out decent. My Dad got me the CAT...www.pirate4x4.com
Notice that his leaf spring hangers are very short compared to yours. Also, look at how he hung his shackles. If you look through the build sticky thread:
Pre 1973 Builds OLD BLUE Build Thread - 71 Chevy The Story of a Full Size '72 Bluggy Slow 1971 GMC Build 71 Blazer Build My '66 C-10 build thread 53 GMC Panel Diesel 4x4 Buildup:1965 for wifey '63 GMC Build Project: GOOBER, 1971 GMC 58 Apache 1 ton tow rig?? 56 chevy napco projectwww.pirate4x4.com
You will find some great ideas.
Alright ill just wait till I have the money to get proper coiloversA radius arm or a 3/4 link suspension would be better, but require additional skill fabricating. Either way I wouldn't use those struts on a radius arm or a 3 or 4-link suspension. They probably only have 4-5" of travel. You want 10"+ of travel out of your shock or coilover. Stick with leaf springs for now and just get it dialed in; it can ride really good on leaf springs if done correctly.
The cheap way to do it is to use stock coil springs and shocks off of a Dodge 2500 or an F250. It is still more expensive and more difficult to fabricate than leaf springs though.Alright ill just wait till I have the money to get proper coilovers
If you can find a dana 60 or even 44 then he'll yes go for a sas cause I really hate the ifs on 2500 lolI've got a 2500hd that was floating front wheels off the ground this weekend, but the back axle was kicking ass.
I was toting about 3000 lbs around in the bed, but following a jeep around. I can't verify for certain, but they said my front tires were hanging off the ground while I was dropping into shit, and while I was crawling out of shit.
I've got a 2001 chevy 2500hd, 6.0 lq4, 4l80e, positrack rear end. I'm trying to figure out if a solid axle swap is for me. It should ad Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin more flex, but I don't know if that is worth it. I know I am dragging frame, and when I finish killing these 265/75r16s then I'm bumping up to 285/75r16s. I was planning on a 2" lift, but I'm not sure that will actually do anything.