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Discussion Starter #301
I think the Montero or Volvo trans might be your answer.

Here is a link where someone build an adapter to put a 23spline toyota case behind the volvo trans: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuki/716069-volvo-aw71-transmission-install-2.html#post8978532

I would think it could be adapted for the Montero trans as well, maybe easier.
I have thought about making a track kick to Toyota case adapter. It really wouldn't be terribly hard, time is the biggest issue for me.

You know my previous set up on my Jeep.

my opinion, put 60s w/ 40" tires under it! Try out the 6.5:1 gears and see how you like it. if you decide you don't like it, sell me the Toyota underdrive case and adapter (I'm serious, I will buy it) and put a tracker/vitara hydraulic 5 speed behind your 2.0L w/ tracker/vitara underdrive and your 4.7:1 Toyota case behind that.

I think a 5 speed trans is mandatory behind a 4 banger unless your only rock crawling, but you may like the 3 speed/6.5:1/7/17 combo :smokin:

I know you've said before you're skeptical of Keith's zuk/Toyota and zuk/D300 doublers, but I and many other guys can assure you he builds a legit product that works great. if you were on Facebook you could see for yourself lol.
I may just try the auto and 6.xx gears and see how it works. The zuk 5spd I have is blown up and finding another one is probably next to impossible. That and unsupported welded coupler just doesn't sit well with me. I'd much rather just go to a Toyota trans and tcases.

Not to mention the Toyota first gear is lower (3.65 vs 3.95) and the tcase is also lower (1.8 vs 2.28) which doesn't sound like much until you multiply it out and get 221:1 vs 303:1.

I do agree that the 5spd is probably better with a 4cyl though.
 

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Random thought while I'm here at work in the middle of the night....



You mentioned no speedo with the samurai case.... does the 2.0 pull the signal for the timing advance from the speedometer similar to the 1.6?
 

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Discussion Starter #303
Random thought while I'm here at work in the middle of the night....



You mentioned no speedo with the samurai case.... does the 2.0 pull the signal for the timing advance from the speedometer similar to the 1.6?
I'm not sure, I was told I didn't need a speedo, can't remember where though
 

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I'm not sure, I was told I didn't need a speedo, can't remember where though
It was just a random thought when you mentioned it still being sluggish with the new case. I figure you may be geared slightly lower then me and mine feels like it gets it pretty good off the line. I also got a noticable bump in power with the new timing chain. The guids were almost non existant and the chain was way stretched.


Oh and buy my diesel yota. :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #305 (Edited)
It was just a random thought when you mentioned it still being sluggish with the new case. I figure you may be geared slightly lower then me and mine feels like it gets it pretty good off the line. I also got a noticable bump in power with the new timing chain. The guids were almost non existant and the chain was way stretched.


Oh and buy my diesel yota. :flipoff2:
I don't think it's sluggish, just not great for hardcore crawling. well actually, crawling isn't bad, but when you stab it to bump up something it just doesn't want to go as good as I'd like. there was also a few time it would just stall against the converter when somewhat bound.to be fair, the exhaust was smashed quickly and I never got under there to look at how bad it was.

Did you get some books in the mail? I just want to make sure I have the right address before I send out that ecu. I went to 3 places trying to get flat rate boxes. Apparently you need power to let people grab boxes off of a shelf :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #308 (Edited)
Well, since the Fordyce trip, I haven't touched this thing. Still has both broken CV's and a fucked up exhaust. Literally have been using it as a mobile wood shed :laughing:

I even started buying some part to go along with my 1 tons from my 4runner. Tossing around the idea of putting the. Under this with 42-43 stickies. After working a long year, and seeing a few buddies having a blast in their sxs's, I caved.



Went all in too :flipoff2:



https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/side-sides/2694202-honda-talon-1000x4-build.html#post44751112

For anyone interested, the talon is pretty sweet. 1000cc inline twin, dual disk 6 spd transmission with auto, sport or manual paddle shift modes, high and low range. So no stupid cvt belt to break.

I even robbed the 32s off of it for the talon. I plan to put the 28s from the talon on this for now. Also taking it to an unemployed friends to have him do a little work on it and see if we can get 4wd back. Not sure after that, maybe try to sell it (cheap!) to recoup some of the sxs money.
 

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Nice trailer!



I'm jeally
What's the wheelbase and ground clearance with the 32s? How big of tires can these hold up to stock? Did you buy the tracks new?
 

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Discussion Starter #310
Nice trailer!



I'm jeally
What's the wheelbase and ground clearance with the 32s? How big of tires can these hold up to stock? Did you buy the tracks new?
Wheelbase is 117" :eek: doesn't really feel that long though. Not sure what the ground clearance is, but last weekend my buddy was dragging his Toyota diffs in the snow with 36s and I had about 2".

I'm sure hold up is relative, but they are supposed to be pretty good for 32s. Yes the tracks are new. There is a "build thread" in the sxs section :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Got the 28s on it :laughing:



Well it's not dead yet, I had a buddy mess with it. The driver side bushing was still good, so I had him throw a good cv in that side.

Zuk parts is going to make me some new bushings to fit the 2nd gen spindles.

My plan to make the CV's not pull apart and also keep the tires out of the firewall, is a reverse hegan mod. Cut the front a arm mounts off and move them in :D
 

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Got the 28s on it :laughing:



Well it's not dead yet, I had a buddy mess with it. The driver side bushing was still good, so I had him throw a good cv in that side.

Zuk parts is going to make me some new bushings to fit the 2nd gen spindles.

My plan to make the CV's not pull apart and also keep the tires out of the firewall, is a reverse hegan mod. Cut the front a arm mounts off and move them in :D


Fk.... that don’t look half bad....



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #313
I'm starting to really dislike this thing. Went on a cruise, mostly 2wd dirt roads. Found a deep ditch that looked fun. Got stuck, went to winch out and broke the cv I just had put it :homer:

It was wedged pretty good, but in dirt. I wheeled my 4runner for 3 years with stock ifs. Open diff but bigger tires and more weight. This thing can't hardly get out of the driveway without breaking a cv.

Anyone want some cheap zuk parts in a shitty package? :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #315
Set the body on a shortened and sectioned IFS pickup frame.....
That's what CV's I'm running

If I do anything, I'll scrap this body, shorten the frame and put my Sami tub on this frame. It's just too much weight for the little tires and little parts.
 

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That's what CV's I'm running

If I do anything, I'll scrap this body, shorten the frame and put my Sami tub on this frame. It's just too much weight for the little tires and little parts.
I'm running 29ish tires and beat the shit out of mine wide open spinning tires bouncing all over the place. The only cv I ever broke was at the hammers. I wonder if you have something else going on... it's fairly hard to break a cv in an ifs yota or runner
 

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Discussion Starter #317
I'm running 29ish tires and beat the shit out of mine wide open spinning tires bouncing all over the place. The only cv I ever broke was at the hammers. I wonder if you have something else going on... it's fairly hard to break a cv in an ifs yota or runner
Well Fordyce isn't exactly cv friendly :laughing:

Dont forget I'm geared almost 2.5x's lower also.

I think the issue is that I'm on the edge of pulling them out. So they are at their weakest point. Also, they're aren't any steering stops, so I think at times it's getting forced beyond what it can handle.

Like I mentioned earlier, I want to move the front a arm mounts in. Or just order some T100 CV's (3" longer) and make new arms. The first gen arms are stamped steel, so I might just chop those up for mock up, but most likely permanent. :laughing: i think I'm almost out of good CV's. But I'll have to look.

If I could go back, I'd definitely stick to a 30 or smaller and just leave the front open. Would have been way more fun, just definitely wouldn't stand a chance at Fordyce.
 

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I've never been to Fordyce so can't compare war stories. But I take mine to Moab all the time and bind the shit out of it. You've gotta have a geometry clash up front to break CV's at will like that. I've got 4.24:1 gears in the t-case and am still running the Autozone reman shafts I put in it in 2014. I've had the diff come loose before but now that I watch it close it stays put.

I think it looks better on the 28's.
 

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Discussion Starter #319
So zuk parts had a pair of bushings made for the 2nd gen spindles. Just checked tracking and they're in LA.

Plan is to cut the front a arm mounts and move them in. Will need to address steering also. Ideally, I'd like to to go to 3/4 hiems and put them on top of the knuckle. Not sure if I'll do that at the same time or not.

Another question, what's better, old factory CV's with torn boots or brand new Chineseium parts store CV's?
 

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Another question, what's better, old factory CV's with torn boots or brand new Chineseium parts store CV's?
When I built my first one I was converting 2wd into a 4wd. I didn't have shafts so I just bought the cheap chinesium ones. I've had to replace boots because I had them maxed out with drive flanges up front. But they've been fine so far. I'd think toyota size chinesium shafts should be plenty sufficient.
 
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