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Discussion Starter #21


Half ass put it on the front. The later "vitara" calipers stick out further and won't work with stock Sami wheels. It's only like 1/2" at most, but the smallest spacers I saw were 1" so I ordered a pair. If they aren't enough, I'll order some 1.5" and put these on the rear. Pic is at full droop.



It wouldn't fit even at ride height with weight on it :laughing: I trimmed the bumper and beat in the front of the wheel well so at least it will roll around on flat ground. I only have 5 tires for each, so I basically need to get the 32s on the 4 door so I can have rollers for the 2 door. :laughing:

Also got the auto pulled, that was more of a pita than I expected. It's hard to get to anything with the inner fenders in the front. I just want to pull the coil spacers off the 2 door and then kick it out side and start on pulling the 5spd. Hopefully by the time it's out, I'll have my parts from trail tough.

I also need some type of trans cooler. I had really good luck with the heat sink cylinder type with my full hydro on my other rigs but I'm not sure if it would work good for a trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Made some steady progress. Got the parts I need off the 2 door and kicked it outside. Also finished all the wheels and mounted tires.

Tacked rings



Cut off lip



Welded every other span, then grind a bevel about 1" into the ends of the weld.



You over lap the welds to help it seal. That way you are nice and hot by the time you get to the end of the last weld. If you try to start in the same spot, it will leak, every time.

I'm sure some people are wondering why in the fuck I cut the lip off the wheel. Well for one, there was a huge gap that I felt would have been too much to fill. 2nd, I always hated how hard my last weld on beadlocks were to mount and dismount compared to a manufactured beadlock. I've noticed that manufactured beadlocks have a smaller OD on the outer lip, it doesn't need to be the full OD since it's bolted in place. I'm confident I won't have any problems, but we will see.

Looking like something finally



Started tearing into the 4 door just a bit. Gotta pull the trans and both diffs, plus install coil spacers. The 2 door had 2" rears and about 1.5" in the front (which I assume will equal 2" lift with the leverage of the a arm) Does anyone think that will be too much without any other changes? CV angles? Rear link bind? They're aluminum, so I could get them turned down no problem. I had really good luck running 35s on my ifs 4runner and I believe part of that was because I left it all stock. No extra stress on everything by cranking the t bars.
 

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Thanks a lot 2big bronco :flipoff2:


You gotta watch him, one of his texts cost me upwards of 15K ! :flipoff2:



Sorry to hear you lost all of your shit in that fire, can't imagine, you have a place to work on stuff and something to work on it with ?

I guess you got tools it seems, but working outdoors in this weather is sure no damn good
 

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Discussion Starter #25
You gotta watch him, one of his texts cost me upwards of 15K ! :flipoff2:



Sorry to hear you lost all of your shit in that fire, can't imagine, you have a place to work on stuff and something to work on it with ?

I guess you got tools it seems, but working outdoors in this weather is sure no damn good
Thanks.

Yes, I was fortunate enough to have a a good friend rent his house to us. Which includes a large 2 car garage. His truck is on one side and I'm using the other. I did the wheels outside so I didn't get grinder dust everywhere inside since there is still some other stuff in the garage. The 4 door is inside now. I've been able to replace some tools, yes. It can be frustrating at times not having everything, but it's a start.
 

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Awesome project! That looks like a fun kick ass cheap beater. When my ITP's are worn out I'm going to try out those Carnivore's in the 30" flavor. We should all go wheel the con or something when there's a handful of them done.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Awesome project! That looks like a fun kick ass cheap beater. When my ITP's are worn out I'm going to try out those Carnivore's in the 30" flavor. We should all go wheel the con or something when there's a handful of them done.
Yours was definitely an influence. I really wanted the more compact and lighter 2 door, but it's just to much work.

That would be a hoot to get a bunch together.

Don't you have a 4 door now? Did you keep the kick case or swap in the Sami case? I'm still up in the air on what to do tcase gearing wise.
 

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Yours was definitely an influence. I really wanted the more compact and lighter 2 door, but it's just to much work.

That would be a hoot to get a bunch together.

Don't you have a 4 door now? Did you keep the kick case or swap in the Sami case? I'm still up in the air on what to do tcase gearing wise.
Yeah I'm rocking a 97 4 door 5 speed now. It was already 4wd so I put 4.24 gears in the t-case, I didn't want the hassle of a swap. The Sammy case is still in the green 2 door and my brother has it. If it was an auto it would be perfect, but with the manual trans I can stall it trying to ease into big obstacles, so I have to bump stuff harder than I'd like to not stall the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yeah I'm rocking a 97 4 door 5 speed now. It was already 4wd so I put 4.24 gears in the t-case, I didn't want the hassle of a swap. The Sammy case is still in the green 2 door and my brother has it. If it was an auto it would be perfect, but with the manual trans I can stall it trying to ease into big obstacles, so I have to bump stuff harder than I'd like to not stall the engine.
Gotcha, what about high range? Use able at all off road?
 

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Gotcha, what about high range? Use able at all off road?
Absolutely not. Its barely useable on road. But you might be better off with the 2.0 than I am with the 1.6.

5th in 4 low leaves me wishing I had more top end but the suspension can't go much faster than what the gearing allows. The 1.8 low would probably be a nice mid range, but that's why I wish I had the Sammy case in it. 4.9 low ranges have 1.609 in high, I think that would be a perfect permanent high range as well,as the perfect low.

Again you having a 2.0 and running 32's leaves you in a different situation than I'm in currently.

TBH, I have a GM 2.5l and 700R4 I think I want to swap in with a single Toyota t-case. Only reason I haven't started already is my 1.6 is as good as 1.6's get, and the a/c works. Fun fact, five 200 pound men in my little 4 door leaves me with only 4 useable gears but it will still go 80 in 4th gear with the a/c on and 1000 pounds of dude in it. 5th is useless with that much weight in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Absolutely not. Its barely useable on road. But you might be better off with the 2.0 than I am with the 1.6.

5th in 4 low leaves me wishing I had more top end but the suspension can't go much faster than what the gearing allows. The 1.8 low would probably be a nice mid range, but that's why I wish I had the Sammy case in it. 4.9 low ranges have 1.609 in high, I think that would be a perfect permanent high range as well,as the perfect low.

Again you having a 2.0 and running 32's leaves you in a different situation than I'm in currently.

TBH, I have a GM 2.5l and 700R4 I think I want to swap in with a single Toyota t-case. Only reason I haven't started already is my 1.6 is as good as 1.6's get, and the a/c works. Fun fact, five 200 pound men in my little 4 door leaves me with only 4 useable gears but it will still go 80 in 4th gear with the a/c on and 1000 pounds of dude in it. 5th is useless with that much weight in it.
I was able to drive it around a little bit with the 5spd and it hauls but in high range, but stock 27" tires at street pressure is a whole different world than 32s aired down. However the auto should make up for a lot, especially since I believe I have 5.13s.

I'm with you on the Sami case. ~1.6 high and 4.xx low would probably be sweet with the auto. I don't plan on highway driving at all, so I'm not too worried about top speed with no OD. My plan is to just try it with stock low and see how it goes, I'm not planning on any real crawling anytime soon anyway. Plus it's what I have and it will give an idea on how it will be in 1:1 and 1.8, which would be similar to the high in a Sami case.

The one thing that Brent mentioned was to make sure I keep the late model tcase for the speed sensor in the tail housing, I'm not sure what if the 2.0 would like having it axed. I'd almost have to find a factory 2wd auto.... Sami case is just too much of a can of worms right now. Unless I just put it behind the tracker case :laughing: then run a 2 piece front shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hard to find spare time for this project, but I was able to pull the blown 5spd out. Got the torque converter spacer/adapter tacked to the 2.0 flex plate. I'm happy trail tough makes this piece, however, some instructions would have been nice. I did figure it out though.

I'm thinking about doing the "hegan mod" to the front end. You basically redrill the rear a arm mounts. Which moves the tire out and forward while gaining a little caster and negative camber. Just need to track down an extra driver side cv axle and 2 more diff intermediate shafts or make a small cv spacer.
 

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Hard to find spare time for this project, but I was able to pull the blown 5spd out. Got the torque converter spacer/adapter tacked to the 2.0 flex plate. I'm happy trail tough makes this piece, however, some instructions would have been nice. I did figure it out though.

I'm thinking about doing the "hegan mod" to the front end. You basically redrill the rear a arm mounts. Which moves the tire out and forward while gaining a little caster and negative camber. Just need to track down an extra driver side cv axle and 2 more diff intermediate shafts or make a small cv spacer.


I have already beaten on the cheapo amazon cv shafts and they seem pretty solid.....But if doing the hagen mod anyways buy the hub spacers and run some junkyard toyota CVS. Then when you have time take a sami rear to build a steel front housing and use the sami third with the tracker gears. This opens up all kinds of locker/spool options and you have a locked ifs setup that shouldn't break with 32s for little money.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I have already beaten on the cheapo amazon cv shafts and they seem pretty solid.....But if doing the hagen mod anyways buy the hub spacers and run some junkyard toyota CVS. Then when you have time take a sami rear to build a steel front housing and use the sami third with the tracker gears. This opens up all kinds of locker/spool options and you have a locked ifs setup that shouldn't break with 32s for little money.
Well the junkyards around here are basically useless and any used Toyota part is way over priced. I see zuki cv's on Amazon for $50 and even found an open box one for $28. I still need to figure out a ~1/2" spacer for the driver side cv.

These rigs don't have steel center sections? I saw a steel center upgrade on lowrange that said it was out of a grand vitara? :confused:
 

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Well the junkyards around here are basically useless and any used Toyota part is way over priced. I see zuki cv's on Amazon for $50 and even found an open box one for $28. I still need to figure out a ~1/2" spacer for the driver side cv.

These rigs don't have steel center sections? I saw a steel center upgrade on lowrange that said it was out of a grand vitara? :confused:


No they are cast aluminum centers and huge piles. Grand vitara ones do exist but in my searches are hard to come by and you still end up with an aluminum third that wont take a conventional locker. I have seen several good writeups on building your own and it looks pretty straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
No they are cast aluminum centers and huge piles. Grand vitara ones do exist but in my searches are hard to come by and you still end up with an aluminum third that wont take a conventional locker. I have seen several good writeups on building your own and it looks pretty straight forward.
From what I read 03+ grand vitara and xl7 should have steel housing and 3rd.

I ordered the Toyota cv kit...... This thing is starting to snowball :flipoff2: I may call around to wrecking yards for an xl7 diff, or just wait for it to blow.

What about using a sidekick rear axle as a donor for a front housing?
 

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I'm entertaining a few options for better gearing in mine. Thinking a 9" f/r so I can run 6.50:1 gears and get my hi range back. I would do a cheap home built front with ifs shafts to convert to Toyota cv's.

If I could find another set of 5.62 track kick gears I'd try them, but those have disappeared. Toyota 5.71's don't scare me with the no horse power but they aren't exactly as low as I'd like to go, and I have this thing about Toyota stuff.

The best samurai build I ever had, had a 16V swap, 4.16 t-case (1.509 hi range) and 4.30 diff gears. That put high range gearing at 6.48 running on 32's. It was just about perfect on and off road. 9"s have about any gear ratio you could conceive of. Still debating over cost versus time involved. I have the perfect disc braked 9" rear that would be a fairly easy swap. The front diff would take some effort. I don't know if I could pull off the Hagan mod with the calmini A arms, the poly bushings don't misalign quite like the rubber factory ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I'm entertaining a few options for better gearing in mine. Thinking a 9" f/r so I can run 6.50:1 gears and get my hi range back. I would do a cheap home built front with ifs shafts to convert to Toyota cv's.

If I could find another set of 5.62 track kick gears I'd try them, but those have disappeared. Toyota 5.71's don't scare me with the no horse power but they aren't exactly as low as I'd like to go, and I have this thing about Toyota stuff.

The best samurai build I ever had, had a 16V swap, 4.16 t-case (1.509 hi range) and 4.30 diff gears. That put high range gearing at 6.48 running on 32's. It was just about perfect on and off road. 9"s have about any gear ratio you could conceive of. Still debating over cost versus time involved. I have the perfect disc braked 9" rear that would be a fairly easy swap. The front diff would take some effort. I don't know if I could pull off the Hagan mod with the calmini A arms, the poly bushings don't misalign quite like the rubber factory ones.
9" centers are sweet for the gearing options, all the way down to ~7.50 hard to justify a custom 9" ifs chunk with 30s though. Not to mention that looking under there even a 9" would be hard to fit.

What's r&p do you have now?

Is anyone making a kick to kick tcase adapter? Or kick to Toyota? Having stock low back plus a low crawl would be perfect.
 

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From what I read 03+ grand vitara and xl7 should have steel housing and 3rd.

I ordered the Toyota cv kit...... This thing is starting to snowball :flipoff2: I may call around to wrecking yards for an xl7 diff, or just wait for it to blow.

What about using a sidekick rear axle as a donor for a front housing?

The sidekick rear is a 9" ring gear I belive but for some reason I recall 5hat tou need a 3" lift to clear it..... but that doesnt really make sence. I know calimini says you need a lift to clear the anvil center. Also you dont have an extra set of 5.13 gears to make one out of a rear from what I know of your junk pile
 

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If I could find another set of 5.62 track kick gears I'd try them, but those have disappeared. .
I dont recal the name but there is an Australian based aftermarket zuk shop that stocks 5.62s
 
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