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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Toyota cv's do NOT fit the suzuki hubs. The Toyota stub is just slightly bigger Iirc toy is 27 spline and zuk is 26. The hub bodies and dials are the same though.

Edit: I realized that I checked the Toyota cv's to the 2 door hubs, but not the flanges on the 4 door. Maybe they are bigger?

I picked up 2 good used factory cv's, 1 aftermarket one that looked like it had never been installed, 2 Toyota hubs and 1 lock out for $90, so that was cool.

Got the trans and tcase in. It's funny how you can bolt a 1990 auto trans between the 1999 engine and tcase that was a 5 spd, with only a slight mod and spacer between the flex plate and converter.

The 3 spd auto is about 1.5" shorter than the 5spd. Luckily the front drive line from the 2 door will work. For the rear I'll probably just order a spacer. I know they are kinda ghetto, but lots of people use them without issue. I would just have the driveline retubed, but since the tubing has a bell on each end. The OD of the ends is only like 1.5" :rolleyes:

I think I might try to button up the trans swap and put everything together to make sure that it drives OK before doing all the front end work.
 

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With the correct bolts I've never had an issue with the spacers at all. Pretty sure I've ran spacers on all my zuki rides. The front tube has a cardboard core for some reason and it couldn't be easily retubed when I put the Sammy t-case in my 2 door, so I just ran a spacer on each end to make up the difference and it works just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
With the correct bolts I've never had an issue with the spacers at all. Pretty sure I've ran spacers on all my zuki rides. The front tube has a cardboard core for some reason and it couldn't be easily retubed when I put the Sammy t-case in my 2 door, so I just ran a spacer on each end to make up the difference and it works just fine.
Front Sami drive shaft? Track kicks are slip yoke front and rear :confused:
 

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Front Sami drive shaft? Track kicks are slip yoke front and rear :confused:
Yes, I had to build a hybrid. The samurai shaft is to short on its own, and obviously the tracker shaft won't work. So I had the slip spline from the samurai front shaft machined down to fit the ID of the tracker tube. Even leaving the tracker tube full length It ended up an inch short. So I used two 1/2" spacers, one on each end to make it have enough spline engagement to make me feel warm and fuzzy.
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Yes, I had to build a hybrid. The samurai shaft is to short on its own, and obviously the tracker shaft won't work. So I had the slip spline from the samurai front shaft machined down to fit the ID of the tracker tube. Even leaving the tracker tube full length It ended up an inch short. So I used two 1/2" spacers, one on each end to make it have enough spline engagement to make me feel warm and fuzzy.
Gotcha.

Everything I see says either 86-89 or 90-95. I assume that my 99 is the same as the 90-95?

Edit: my 90 2 door has the same driveline pattern as the 99 4door. I'm not sure why they are designating 90-95 instead of 90+
 

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The long side inner axle will be your next weak point with the Toyota cv mod. Cycle that suspension after the Hagen mod, some guys still don’t have enough room on the pass side due to how deep they make the stub adapter.

Otherwise I love the kit.

Also, 03+ is not a sure thing to for a steel front diff. Manual gv or xl7 will have a steel front diff. Some xl7 04-05 have steel front diffs but gv auto 03+ won’t have them. If they do, it was swapped in. I scowered alot of junk yards following the 03+ info and it never added up.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
The long side inner axle will be your next weak point with the Toyota cv mod. Cycle that suspension after the Hagen mod, some guys still don’t have enough room on the pass side due to how deep they make the stub adapter.

Otherwise I love the kit.

Also, 03+ is not a sure thing to for a steel front diff. Manual gv or xl7 will have a steel front diff. Some xl7 04-05 have steel front diffs but gv auto 03+ won’t have them. If they do, it was swapped in. I scowered alot of junk yards following the 03+ info and it never added up.
Good to know, I'm not planning on full on wheelin this thing, but who knows. I just liked the Toyota cv idea since I'll be doing the hegan mod anyway.

Funny you mention the front diff, I was under there today, spinning the front driveshaft and noticed that the tires weren't spinning. Spin the tires and they seem totally disconnected from each other and the driveshaft, yet no noise or drag :confused: I'm 99% sure that the 4wd worked fine the little I drove it around. Do these have some kind of disconnect that I can't see?

So if I call wrecking yards what do I ask for? Did the make the housing and 3rd steel at the same time or do some have one and not the other?
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Modified the crossmember for the ~1.5" shorter trans.





The auto shifter almost bolted up to the 5spd boot holes. The holes were the same width but the auto shifter was a little longer, I just notched the front of the hole about 3/4" and used some extra factory self trappers. Tcase shift boot worked fine, it gets a little close to the auto shifter in 2 high but clears.

 

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I'm posative the 4wd worked in that thing. Does that one have the fancy auto locking hubs? I dont remember.
 

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Good to know, I'm not planning on full on wheelin this thing, but who knows. I just liked the Toyota cv idea since I'll be doing the hegan mod anyway.



Funny you mention the front diff, I was under there today, spinning the front driveshaft and noticed that the tires weren't spinning. Spin the tires and they seem totally disconnected from each other and the driveshaft, yet no noise or drag :confused: I'm 99% sure that the 4wd worked fine the little I drove it around. Do these have some kind of disconnect that I can't see?



So if I call wrecking yards what do I ask for? Did the make the housing and 3rd steel at the same time or do some have one and not the other?


Oh your building the 2nd gen now? I thought you were building the first gen till I saw your latest posts.

The Toyota cv conversion will not work without massive adjustments. The diff mounts hit horribly even if you do just the driver side stub shaft mod (the cv’s from a Toyota hit even worse). Also the Hagen mod will make things worse trying to make the Toyota cv’s fit. You will have to shift the diff to the driver side a bit as it is not centered after you put the stub shaft in. The driver side cv will not be long enough and the pass side will be too long. Also the bushings that come with the kit to hold the cv in the back of the spindle will not fit as Suzuki changed the bore diameter so you will have to make new bushings. Basically, you have a ton of work to make the toy cv’s fit. Been there done that on my second gen.

As for calling the yards, won’t do you any good unless you get someone who actually has some smarts. I ordered 2 diffs off eBay because I was told “they are steel”. Showed up at my shop and they didn’t pass the magnet test. Back they went. These were actual junk yards selling on eBay. At that point I just went to the u pick its but I actually found my current one on here. I did pull a second one from a friend in the JY not long after.

The front diff in these is air actuated. There is a bladder that inflates and engages the carrier to the ring gear. So turning one tire only turns one tire till you fill the bladder with air. You can not put a locker in one and the bladder is known to leak. You are better off swapping the carrier to a first gen or samurai (samurai will need machining). Then you can run a locker in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Oh your building the 2nd gen now? I thought you were building the first gen till I saw your latest posts.

The Toyota cv conversion will not work without massive adjustments. The diff mounts hit horribly even if you do just the driver side stub shaft mod (the cv’s from a Toyota hit even worse). Also the Hagen mod will make things worse trying to make the Toyota cv’s fit. You will have to shift the diff to the driver side a bit as it is not centered after you put the stub shaft in. The driver side cv will not be long enough and the pass side will be too long. Also the bushings that come with the kit to hold the cv in the back of the spindle will not fit as Suzuki changed the bore diameter so you will have to make new bushings. Basically, you have a ton of work to make the toy cv’s fit. Been there done that on my second gen.

As for calling the yards, won’t do you any good unless you get someone who actually has some smarts. I ordered 2 diffs off eBay because I was told “they are steel”. Showed up at my shop and they didn’t pass the magnet test. Back they went. These were actual junk yards selling on eBay. At that point I just went to the u pick its but I actually found my current one on here. I did pull a second one from a friend in the JY not long after.

The front diff in these is air actuated. There is a bladder that inflates and engages the carrier to the ring gear. So turning one tire only turns one tire till you fill the bladder with air. You can not put a locker in one and the bladder is known to leak. You are better off swapping the carrier to a first gen or samurai (samurai will need machining). Then you can run a locker in there.
:(

Well, thanks for the heads up. Guess I got $800-900 worth of useless parts in the garage. This stupid project has just gotten out of hand. I really wish I would have just gotten a cheap beater and thrown some tires and a rear spool on it.
 

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Sorry, didn’t mean to be a Debbie downer. Your welcome to glance through my thread (the grand tracker) and see what I’ve been doing to make all that work. 2nd gens are a bitch since no one really makes shit for them
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
Sorry, didn’t mean to be a Debbie downer. Your welcome to glance through my thread (the grand tracker) and see what I’ve been doing to make all that work. 2nd gens are a bitch since no one really makes shit for them
No worries, I'd rather know now than when I'm trying to put it together.

And honestly I'm a little pissed that the $500 locker and $350 Toyota cv kit I bought for this rig didn't specify that they wouldn't work with my rig.
 

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No worries, I'd rather know now than when I'm trying to put it together.

And honestly I'm a little pissed that the $500 locker and $350 Toyota cv kit I bought for this rig didn't specify that they wouldn't work with my rig.


I was the first one to try the kit from Ben (owner for zukiparts) on a second gen. I told him about a year ago they are no where near a bolt on kit. Problem is a Vitara over seas is like our sidekick/trackers from 89-95. So not the same but hard to put on the site what it will and won’t fit unless you know what to look for

If it helps, I may have a guy out here that would take that cv kit. Help lesson this blow ya had. PM if you want and I’ll see if I can get you two in touch
 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
I was the first one to try the kit from Ben (owner for zukiparts). I told him about a year ago they are no where near a bolt on kit. Problem is a Vitara over seas is like our sidekick/trackers from 89-95. So not the same.

If it helps, I may have a guy out here that would take that cv kit. Help lesson this blow ya had. PM if you want and I’ll see if I can get you two in touch
Ya, I guess I saw vitara and thought it would be good to go. So much stuff interchanges that you would think it would work. Yet, obviously, many things are different.

The locker I have is from trail tough, it looks like the modified a Sami lockrite to fit in a tracker carrier. It had a core charge and came already in a carrier. Will this swap out the air actuated deal? Or do I need an entire different 3rd?

OK, Ill keep it in mind, thank you. I do have 2 good used factory cv's, 1 new cv, 2 complete hubs and 1 drive flange to go with the kit.

I really wanted a smaller 2 door or possibly a Sami. So I may hang onto it incase I decide to drop this drive train into an older rig.
 

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Ya, I guess I saw vitara and thought it would be good to go. So much stuff interchanges that you would think it would work. Yet, obviously, many things are different.

The locker I have is from trail tough, it looks like the modified a Sami lockrite to fit in a tracker carrier. It had a core charge and came already in a carrier. Will this swap out the air actuated deal? Or do I need an entire different 3rd?

OK, Ill keep it in mind, thank you. I do have 2 good used factory cv's, 1 new cv, 2 complete hubs and 1 drive flange to go with the kit.

I really wanted a smaller 2 door or possibly a Sami. So I may hang onto it incase I decide to drop this drive train into an older rig.


If you have a carrier and locker ready, it will all drop right in. Only the carrier is different in there so you are still golden there. Just plug the hole for the air line on the outside of the diff with a vac plug or something once done.

He would take it all and says he’s game. Just let me know! First gen would be much easier to swap in lol.

Really the only swappable parts are the big things like engine, trans, tcase (up to 03 when trans output changed), thirds/gears, front diff and possibly driveshaft parts. Front arms, struts, cv axles, knuckles, spindles, rear links, springs, steering, and lots of other stuff are all different. I’ve basically gone all custom at this point cause there wasn’t enough upgraded parts for me and RCV didn’t want to work with me on upgraded axle shafts or cv axles
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
If you have a carrier and locker ready, it will all drop right in. Only the carrier is different in there so you are still golden there. Just plug the hole for the air line on the outside of the diff with a vac plug or something once done.

He would take it all and says he’s game. Just let me know! First gen would be much easier to swap in lol.

Really the only swappable parts are the big things like engine, trans, tcase (up to 03 when trans output changed), thirds/gears, front diff and possibly driveshaft parts. Front arms, struts, cv axles, knuckles, spindles, rear links, springs, steering, and lots of other stuff are all different. I’ve basically gone all custom at this point cause there wasn’t enough upgraded parts for me and RCV didn’t want to work with me on upgraded axle shafts or cv axles
OK, let me think about it for a bit. I'm not sure how else I will be able to make these 32s fit with out pushing the tire forward.

Here's an idea, why don't you just sell me all of your diff mounts? :D
 

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OK, let me think about it for a bit. I'm not sure how else I will be able to make these 32s fit with out pushing the tire forward.

Here's an idea, why don't you just sell me all of your diff mounts? :D
:laughing: sadly they have been spoken for already along with my front diff. dont forget the custom bushings :D.

You can always do the frame chop. that lets you gain lift you want as well as firewall clearance. how i did mine. keeps CV angles nice, lots of tire clearance, and gains lift. you will have to redo engine mounts (easy as the brackets unbolt from the frame, just weld them where you want them after moving the frame), steering (they use a jacked up retarded 2 joint setup. i clearanced mine for more angle and moved one way up the steering shaft), radiator mount (just cut and reweld), brake lines, and front driveshaft.

otherwise you can see if Alter Ego will sell you just the front arms for a GV. they move the tire forward 1.5" iirc
 
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