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Discussion Starter #101
The cj wide track is not the same width as his current rear axle. Wide tracks are 56” wide. His rear is 60” as stated before
Are you positive they are 60"? Because I have a 3rd gen 4runner that is 60" wms and it looks huge compared to the zuk, both use deep back spaced wheels.

I guess I'll measure mine to be sure. :flipoff2:
 

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Maybe I'll just sell it back to you when I'm done :laughing:
If you get it locked front and rear on 32s with a steel diff and toyota CV shafts I'll have a hard time not buying it from you. Dont forget to fear the t-case for me
 

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Are you positive they are 60"? Because I have a 3rd gen 4runner that is 60" wms and it looks huge compared to the zuk, both use deep back spaced wheels.

I guess I'll measure mine to be sure. :flipoff2:
100%. ive measured my old axle many time when i was setting up my suspension program to dial in the link and shock placement. stock axle is 60" on 99-05 rear axles.
 

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We'll have to see, this thing would be a blast at Hollister hills
20 min from my house. I know every square inch of that place including some "hidden" spots/trails. Finish it and come down
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Does anyone know what triggers the front diff to engage? Is it the 4wd light or a vaccum line? I can't for the life of me find the wire that went to the 4wd sensor and there is a vaccum line looking thing that came out with the trans and tcase. It may also be the breather, not sure.

I would like to drive it around before I tear the front end apart as it sits right now I'm going to install the mini spool and coil spacers, then I'm just waiting for the driveline spacer, which should be here today.
 

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Does anyone know what triggers the front diff to engage? Is it the 4wd light or a vaccum line? I can't for the life of me find the wire that went to the 4wd sensor and there is a vaccum line looking thing that came out with the trans and tcase. It may also be the breather, not sure.

I would like to drive it around before I tear the front end apart as it sits right now I'm going to install the mini spool and coil spacers, then I'm just waiting for the driveline spacer, which should be here today.
4wd trigger on the t-case does it. the rubber line is just a breather. sensor triggers the ecm, ecm triggers 4wd light and air pump which engages the front diff carrier.

if you pull the air pump connection, 4wd will not illuminate. you have to jump 2 wires at the plug to make the light come on (forget what 2). obviously if you unplug it and you are still running the factory carrier, it wont engage either.
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
4wd trigger on the t-case does it. the rubber line is just a breather. sensor triggers the ecm, ecm triggers 4wd light and air pump which engages the front diff carrier.

if you pull the air pump connection, 4wd will not illuminate. you have to jump 2 wires at the plug to make the light come on (forget what 2). obviously if you unplug it and you are still running the factory carrier, it wont engage either.
I must have lost the 4wd light harness, I don't remember seeing it hanging down when the trans was out :confused:

I was thinking about wiring up a switch for the front end so I could have 2 low, but it's not really worth it if I'm going to put the locker in soon.

Also, I will say the rear bearing design is complete shit compared to a Toyota. I had to hammer the backing plate to get the bearing out, then hammer it back in, stud fell out, what a pain.

Also, it has 4.62s, not 5.13s :( 2big owes me big time now.

Actually, it's not a huge difference, plus the 2 door should be the same so I have spares.
 

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Discussion Starter #109 (Edited)
Got the shifters in, I thought I posted this, but didn't see the pics. The auto shifter almost lined up, the 2 rear holes worked, but the auto shifter was a little longer so I had to notch the tunnel a little and use self tap screws on the front 2 holes. Tcase shifter didnt move enough to really make a difference.



Mounted the trans cooler, I used 2 hard mounts and 2 of those ghetto zip tie like deals that they come with, so it's only half ghetto :flipoff2:



Pit the coil spacers in, these were on the 2 door no idea what brand they are but the lip just didn't work, I ended up cutting it off all 4 of them. The rears were about 2.5" and the fronts were about 2" I think the front might be too much, it didn't move at all when I sent it down :laughing: I won't be messing with those things again with out a coil compressor, what a pain.



Finally sitting on its tires again, just waiting on my driveline spacer and I can test drive.

 

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I suppose I could walk outside and look at mine but how hard would it be to just make some new a-arm mounts that reach a little further out to get you the right width for the toy axles
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
I suppose I could walk outside and look at mine but how hard would it be to just make some new a-arm mounts that reach a little further out to get you the right width for the toy axles
That's where the hegan mod comes in. The problem is that the diff mounts are really close to the tiny stock cv's so they are in the way of the much larger Toyota cv's

I'm thinking about measuring the stock bushings and ordering some ruff stuff bushings to build new mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Driveline spacer came last night, but I'm trying to deal with the trailer. Came from out of state, so dmv wants to do a Vin verification. Well the manufacturer only put on a sticker, and not surprisingly, after 20 years you can read it :rolleyes: well I stamped the Vin in the frame and went back to dmv and said "oh, I found the vin"

Nope, have to go to CHP :shaking: what a joke.
 

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Driveline spacer came last night, but I'm trying to deal with the trailer. Came from out of state, so dmv wants to do a Vin verification. Well the manufacturer only put on a sticker, and not surprisingly, after 20 years you can read it :rolleyes: well I stamped the Vin in the frame and went back to dmv and said "oh, I found the vin"

Nope, have to go to CHP :shaking: what a joke.
What kind of asshole sold you an out of state trailer? I'll bet the sidekick didnt even come with a pink slip. Hopefully you didnt pay a penny over 1k for the pair :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
What kind of asshole sold you an out of state trailer? I'll bet the sidekick didnt even come with a pink slip. Hopefully you didnt pay a penny over 1k for the pair :flipoff2:
The biggest asshole ever!

Suzuki was an easy change over.

Took her for a spin just now, it's running like total shit once it warms up. Like hit the gas and it just sputters. I thought maybe the muffler was plugged up with rat nests, so I unbolted the exhaust right before it, no change. I know the cat is good because I had it out for the trans swap.

It threw a cel too p0300 random misfire or multiple cylinder misfire(off to Google)

Any ideas?

It did it a little once before, I thought it was related to the alternator dying.
 

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The biggest asshole ever!

Suzuki was an easy change over.

Took her for a spin just now, it's running like total shit once it warms up. Like hit the gas and it just sputters. I thought maybe the muffler was plugged up with rat nests, so I unbolted the exhaust right before it, no change. I know the cat is good because I had it out for the trans swap.

It threw a cel too p0300 random misfire or multiple cylinder misfire(off to Google)

Any ideas?

It did it a little once before, I thought it was related to the alternator dying.

No idea it always ran great. Last trip was all the way to koh and back....... my guess is its somehow related to sitting for a year or rats chewed something. Old gas?
 

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Discussion Starter #116 (Edited)
No idea it always ran great. Last trip was all the way to koh and back....... my guess is its somehow related to sitting for a year or rats chewed something. Old gas?
It's weird because it seems to run OK when it's cold, but once it's all the way warm it's terrible. Like it won't even move on flat ground and barely wants to start.

When I googled the code people said maybe coil packs, vacuum leak, egr or a few others. Egr makes the most sense to me since it's only once it's warm. But I wonder if I have more than one thing working against me. Maybe I'll start will filling it up with good gas and replacing the fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Filled the tank up with good gas and 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner, changed the fuel filter and plugs, cleaned the map (I'm assuming, back of the intake manifold) and maf, plus unplugged the egr. Drove around for a few hours and it ran great. I plugged the egr in just now when I got back and it seemed to still run good, so maybe it was just a combination of all the other stuff making it run bad. I'll have to see next time I get a chance to drive around.

It's still not perfect though

Trans will sometimes not react with slight amount of throttle and then bang into gear, it will do this a few time then seem good.

Tires rub (obviously) the front isn't as bad as I thought, but will need attention before any real trails.

Shocks are too short front and rear, it's basically topped out just sitting there. Longer shocks for the rear are no big deal, I may space the bump stops down also to help with rubbing. I know they make spacers for the front, but I'm wondering if that's a bad idea with the stock cv's? They look pretty steep as it is.

It definitely needs way more gearing even low isn't really low enough for cruising down tight trails. High is OKish for the road but not great. Basically, exactly what I have been saying for a while is that a Sami case with ~1.6 high and 4.xx low would be perfect. It is tempting to just drop some 4.24 gears in the stock case and go. Sami cases are getting hard to find, plus I'd have to figure out drive shafts, source and intermediate shaft, a tcase mount, a trans mount, ect. But the use able high range might be worth it.

My 6 year old helped in the paint job a little more :laughing:











 

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Discussion Starter #118
Working a deal right now to get a 4.16 Sami case for this thing. I was hoping for 4.9s but I think it will work well for what I'm doing. If this thing progresses I'll just switch to a track kick doubler. In fact, I'm thinking about just mounting the sami case behind the stock case divorced and then just lop off the stock front out put and cap it. :laughing:

Probably not though. Just the Sami case would work perfectly. After driving on the road in low (1.8) its not bad, but anything over 30 its revving a little. So the 1.55 or so of the 4.16s should be great. Plus low is about 2.5 times lower, which should be plenty with the auto.
 

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Discussion Starter #119


Went out for another hour or so with the egr plugged in and it ran great. Which is nice because I have to smog it to get it registered.

The tires are definitely bad ass for the wet slick shit, it's actually pretty hard to get them to spin. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #120
So since you guys got my head all spinning on building a steel front diff, or at a minimum basically completely remounting what I have. I've thought about using the 2 door rear axle to build a front center, which would be cool.

But why not just use a Toyota ifs center?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuki/318480-toyota-front-differential-vitara-56k-say-what.html?amp=1

They are everywhere, cheap and 4.56s weren't too un common in the 2nd Gen 4runner. The cv's would obviously bolt up, spartan lockers are available and cheap.
 
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