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495 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK I know this subject has been beat to DEATH but some questions that I haven't found direct answers for or have & don't remember what I found.
1. If your running Johny Joints or Rubicon joints or poly bushings how do you make your links adjustable as far as they're length or do you just make sure you get it right the first time?
2. If you run your rig on the road ocationally is it ESSENTIAL to incorporate poly or rubber bushings into on end of all the links?
3. Is it impossible to run a four link suspension (instead of 3 link) if your running an off-set rear axle & t-case or just more difficault to engineer to clear the driveshaft etc.?
4. For an on/off road rig should the coil springs be mounted on the OUTSIDE of the frame rails or is directly under the rails OK if adjustable shocks are being used?
5. Where is a good place to get custom length limit straps?
6. Can a coil spring be shortened by just cutting some of the coil off one end then heating and bending JUST the end so it is flat again? (on the mounting surface)
7. What is a good way to make a home made link mount for the top of the rear axle in a 3 link configuration? (Seems like a LOT of rotational movement would be needed)
8. What application of spring bushing sets are guys using to make links with bushing ends? (Thinking YJs aren't they a common O.D. that fits inside of a IPS that's common)
9. If running J.Js. or RE ends do you weld the link RIGHT ON TO the joint outer race or weld the link to a pipe size that the JJ can be pressed into.
10. Uuhhhhh I'll think of more & revisit later.

Thanks guys!

550 Posts
This is what I have to offer

1.I would get as close as I could with the measurements, there is always some adjustment
in the link length if you make them adjustable. When I measured for my links
I thought in terms of center to center, this included the heim joints/jj's/bushings.
2. No. This comes down to preference. I would try to keep some uniformity to it.
Like bushings at the diff end, and heims/jj's ant the frame or visa versa.
3. Not impossible. Space is some times a limiting factor of running a 4 link instead of 3 link
This one can be best illustrated with pictures. There lots of them on this board.
I will try to locate them for you.
4. Depending on the application, under the frame is ok, but if the springs are really stiff
it could put you too high. In the front, it is some times unavoidable to have to mount the coils
outside the frame to prevent the coil from riding up the diff.
5. Sway-Away
6. Not recommended. You will lose temper in the spring metal. There is always a work around.
7. 1.25inch plate works good. Try to get the mount and the links as flat as you can.
8. Standers Chevy bushings work, fits 1.5 id. Some use 44044 Rancho spring bushings(pricey)
9. You can get JJ's that have a left/right thread, on them for adjustment.
10. Good luck ,and post lots of pictures.:)

3,914 Posts
pretty much copy and paste

Ill give it a stab
1)The only adjustability is in the thread that is being screwed in to the end of the link Im sure you could come up with something creative.
2) prefernce on the end you wantto use seems people use the rub/poly to absorb shock load fromt the suspension others use heims whicn if not set up correctly can deteriorate under side side load. I have seen both used its prefersnce and budget in my 02
3) not impossible shaffers and RRO are basicaly that just remove the single pivot from the top wishbone and connect indavidually at the same pnt. It is aittle more dificult to do the triangulted 4 link but it can be done.
4)Fot an on/off road vehicle you would probably get better handling with them direct unde the rails gong inside woulg yeild you a flexmonger but would be very prone to body roll, outside rails would give you more stability and a little less articulation so comprimise between the two.
5) rockbuggy supply
6) not recomended youll loose the spring affect which would deteriorte the spring over time or cause that area to break/ crack
7)You could set it up for (ie) like a fors radius arm with a tud and bushigs both sides, that would allow full rotation on that point.
8) 1-3/4 tubing with the small yj spring rubber
9) Not that familiar with the joints so I wont comment
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