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Discussion Starter #1
First of all - here's what I built so far:





NOTE: It is no where near finished. Just building what I do know now and asking you experts as I go.

My question for now is - the seat belt mounting bar is in place attached to the main hoop as you can see in the pic. How do you guys think I should make the diagonals to attach to it?

Does something like this work well?


Or do I need to make the big X and turn this into a jungle Gym?

Thanks,
Phil
 

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Looks great so far.... A full brace from just behind your head to bottom of B hoop on pass. side would be stronger....my.02

Note: try to place your seat belt bar 0* to 10*- of your shoulder. If too high, you slide up in the seat, to low, you stand a chance of break'n your collar bones in a HARD impact..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Seat belt bar is about 5 degrees below seat slot. Sounds good then?

And for the diagonal, you mean like the attached pic?

Thanks,

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Tin Bender. More questions to follow as I build more of it.
This is my first DIY cage. Lots to learn.

Phil
 

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Are you going to the frame? hard mount? if so, try to stab the lower end of your cross brace to the frame insted of the lower of the "B" hoop.. Doing this will help keep the cage mounts from distort'n in a roll.
 

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looks great, what kind of tubing is that. Im looking to start building a cage for my f-150 soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Tin Bender said:
Are you going to the frame? hard mount? if so, try to stab the lower end of your cross brace to the frame insted of the lower of the "B" hoop.. Doing this will help keep the cage mounts from distort'n in a roll.
It is tied to the frame through the body mounts on the main hoop, and through additional body mount style mounts (that I added) on the other four points.

I made the floor plates out of 6x6"x1/2" thick plate - should be ok, not to distort ;) But I will try to attach to the plate instead of the tube as you say.

Thanks,
Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Now for my next question:
Which is better for the spreader near the floor between the front legs and the main hoop? Straight from one to the other as low as possible, or a bend in it that gets the rear part of it as high as possible for additional triangulation?

I made a crappy pic to illustrate.


Thanks,
Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here are some better pics to illustrate.
Like H8's:

With a bend in the bar next to the door sill, or like Syko's straight across?


And why is it better that way?

Thanks,
Phil
I LOVE this board.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tin Bender said:
Looks great so far.... A full brace from just behind your head to bottom of B hoop on pass. side would be stronger....my.02

Note: try to place your seat belt bar 0* to 10*- of your shoulder. If too high, you slide up in the seat, to low, you stand a chance of break'n your collar bones in a HARD impact..
Re-reading this, I am not sure what you are saying now. The seat belt cross bar is directly behind the slot in the seat where the harness enters. Is that where it should be?

Thanks,
Phil
 

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1TONTJ said:


How do you mount the top of the harnesses to that?

Phil
I used to "Y" style harnesses. I have traingle tabs welded to the top of the hoop. One grade 8 bolt and your good to go.
 

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1TONTJ said:
Here are some better pics to illustrate.
Like H8's:
With a bend in the bar next to the door sill, or like Syko's straight across?
And why is it better that way?

Thanks,
Phil
I LOVE this board.
A straight tube is stronger then a bent tube. The bend like H8's is for hip protection as well as strenght. I consided doing this on my setup but it wouldn't work with the seats and hard doors I was using. the funny thing is I don't run the doors or the front window now and I wish I would not have worked around them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, guys since you didn't like the way I was thinking of doing the upper harness bar and main hoop braces - I took the upper harness bar out (was just tack welded anyway).

So now I am going with the X to mount them.
BUT It will be a bitch to get them to intersect at the same places as the other two tubes on the main hoop (They will overlap and be a PITA)

So - can I do it like the attached pic and is that good, or must I do the extra PITA and get the X tubes atached at the same place as the other two tubes on the main hoop?

Thanks,
Phil
 

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