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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys. This might sound like a completely retarded idea to some of you, and it may be in the wrong forum. For that I am sorry. Anyhow,

My 82 Chev 3/4 ton truck. It is used as a weekend fun machine but I drive it in the winter as well. Between the 454 and 38.5's you literally cannot have a conversation in the truck while it is running let alone listen to any music without compromising my hearing. So I was planning to strip the cab on the inside and get some kind of dynamat or ebay wanna-be Dynamat to cover the inside of the doors and the whole cab with.

This would normally not be a problem except for one thing. Moisture. I am not sure exactly what to do about the mass amounts of mud the inside of my truck usually sees, and it has seen water once or twice as well. I don't know, a few coats of sound insulation with 4/5 layers of thick plastic?? I can try and be a little cleaner but it is still going to get wet in there, I would like to aviod carpet. I dont really care how it looks, I am just not into having the water/mud get under the material or soak into it and destroy my soon to be new again cab.

How is your or anyone's experience with the roofing products? I would imagine if you applied them properly the should keep moisture out.

I am open to any ideas and suggestions. I am NOT expecting absolute silence here, but I would like to hear my music and the person next to me while I am driving and not go deaf by the time I reach 25.

Thank you soo much guys, look forward to hearing your ideas.

Trevor
 

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Sounds like you need a daily driver. Or ear plugs. Since you are not going to stop getting it wet and you seam to have truck built for bogging not for comfort. Hard to have both.
 

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you could pay to have the interior line-x'ed like 3 layers thick...

I used the peel'n'seal (roofing product) as sound insulation in my old ZJ. worked pretty awesome, but i dont know how it would do if you get it wet. It needed to be applied with a heat gun to get good adhesion, and people haven't had much luck using non-dynamat on vertical or inverted surfaces.

I'd try to get some kind of spray in coating. you could use the DIY herculiner chit, or something. a couple coats should quiet it down and keep it waterproof.

good luck,
Paul
 

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Any chance you can narrow down what kind of noise you have?

Is it engine noise? gear noise? tire noise? wind noise?
 

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are you running open exhaust or something? the engine noise can be dealt via mufflers and the tire roar you will have to deal with. for interior, I'd strip the cab out, use some diy bedliner all over and throw in some thick rubber mats where you can. maybe replace some weather stripping and such to keep wind noises down. after that, you cna try rolling up your windows.
 

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http://secondskinaudio.com

You could put a layer of the spray on stuff on the floor of the cab, then the sound deadening mat over it to keep water from getting under it and rusting. The material itself shouldn't hold any water, it is butyl rubber with an aluminum coating.
 

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Probably your best bet. I was thinking of using the Dynamat Xtreme and then a coat of Durabak on top in my YJ sorta like JP magazine did, but I like think a couple coats of Lizardskin Ceramic followed by a couple coats of Durabak would be even better. Not cheap though, around $800 including the cost of the spray gun and 4 gallons of the Lizard Ceramic and 2 gallons of textured UV Durabak.
 

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I used the peel'n'seal (roofing product) as sound insulation in my old ZJ. worked pretty awesome, but i dont know how it would do if you get it wet. It needed to be applied with a heat gun to get good adhesion, and people haven't had much luck using non-dynamat on vertical or inverted surfaces.

I'd try to get some kind of spray in coating. you could use the DIY herculiner chit, or something. a couple coats should quiet it down and keep it waterproof.

good luck,
Paul
I've used a similar roofing patch product on a few cars with good results. I get it at home depot, aluminized on one side. It doesn't say peel'n'seal on the package. It just works out I've always applied in summer so no heat, use a roller or something to make sure it sticks everywhere. I haven't had a problem on vertical or inverted surfaces.

I know a guy who knows a guy who has a homemade version of lizard skin and it looks and works great on his truck. I'll try and find out what's in it.
 

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I have used 30 lb roofing felt with great results. Pull inner door panels and sandwich it, best way, between door panel and door frame. I don't know what you have on you floors but if carpet or vinyl you can put the felt down on the floor, then jute (optional) and your floor covering. The roofing felt is somewhat sticky and will not wad up under the carpet, it does breath and is a kinda moisture barrier. Hope this helps it has worked for me on many older
vehicles I have had:smokin:
 

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it works well and i've never had a problem unless it was unsupported and overhead in 100+ degrees. same stuff as dynamat.
I agree. I had no problems with mine, but it was primarily used on the floor, and then covered with carpet. I used of those screen door cord rollers to get into tight nooks, and used a heat gun to get it nice and warm...almost melted...but I also put it in in December. I bought it from a roofing supply bulk distributor in columbia, sc for pretty cheap.

That being said though, I think for an interior floorboard type applcation that you don't want to cover in carpet, taht will get wet, people will be climbing in and out, some kind of spray in liner would work better. The edges of the peelnseal might start coming up or kicked up by people's feet, etc. You could cover it in carpet, but that would hold in water/moisture and probably start to smell pretty wicked after a while. UNLESS....you found some peelnseal that was like 4' wide. My chit came in 1 1/4 ft wide strips, and that would leave a lot of seams if you tried to do a whole floor and leave it uncovered.

Do you have a local linex/rhinoliner/nonamebedliner place? Ask them how much they'd charge to do 2 or 3 layers from the firewall to the back windows or something, if you strip the interior and do the scuffing prep work. I'd imagine 2 coats would work out to the same square footage as a long bed + bed rails, and those quotes typically run in the ~4-600 dollar range, less if you're buddy buddy with the guy. Or do it yourself with the herculiner shit from vatozone. I've heard its not as durable as linex/rhino, but it also won't see as much UV exposure inside the cab. Anywho, i'm rambling.

good luck,
Paul
 

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bitchathain (sp?) from home depot in the window and door section, used it sevaral cars with stereo systems and all my vdubs . it works great, and 6" x 50' roll is about 15 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks soo much for your advice guys. I am not going for BMW quiet by any means, just quieter so I can listen to music or talk to the person next to me when I am driving. The interior of the cab is more or less gutted, so so just bare metal everywhere, I am sure that doesn't help a bit in the form of sound deadening. I like hearing my truck too, but to a point. I will contemplate my options in the next week or two here and post with what I decided upon.

I have been considering laying down some of the roofing material and then putting a few coats of rubberized undercoating or a rockguard product on top of it to further seal it up. I will get back to you. Thanks again.

Trevor
 
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