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Discussion Starter #1
I read the alternate pitman arm threads in the FAQ as I am looking for a pitman as long as the IFS pitman but with less drop, (not flat)

So far all I've found is the Sky Pitman (3/4 drop). I will call them on monday to ask but in the meantime does any of you guys actually have this pitman to see what the dimensional differences are? Does 3/4 mean 3/4" less drop or three fourths the drop of the stock pitman?

Any other sources of these flatt-er pitman arms would be appreciated.

From what I've read the 2wd pitman, being shorter, does not provide the amount of throw required.
 

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I have the sky arm. Its 3/4" less drop. I can measure total drop, if you need it.

Its BEEF. I didn't like the price, but it fit perfect, and will never break.
 

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The FJ80 pitman arms have less drop than stock, but I don't know about the length.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Much shorter, maybe a full inch. There is a comparison pic in the faq under "pitman".
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I have the sky arm. Its 3/4" less drop. I can measure total drop, if you need it.
So when you say 3/4" less drop, does that mean swapping from the trail-gear arm to this arm will net me 3/4" more clearance under the TRE?

I may be overthinking it but I just want to make sure both arms are the same thickness at the TRE hole making the measurements relative. The Sky arm looks thicker and if it's 3/4" less drop and, say, 1/4" thicker at the TRE hole, it might only give you say 1/2" more clearance under the TRE. See what I mean? Just looking for an exact explantion to see if it will fit under my frame rail with minimal cutting before I buy one.
 

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The FJ80 pitman arms have less drop than stock, but I don't know about the length.
They are a little longer, and the rod is rotated to a different angle.
 

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Marlin Crawler, Inc.
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That's a good idea, but the turning radius and effective steering power might be reduced by the shorter leverage arm. It would make driving the twisties on the way to the trail head more enjoyable though :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's a good idea, but the turning radius and effective steering power might be reduced by the shorter leverage arm. It would make driving the twisties on the way to the trail head more enjoyable though :D
Just the opposite actually. Shorter pitman means you trade distance for force. Longer pitman means you trade force for distance. Think about an exaggeration: A 3' long pitman is not even going to budge the tires.......
 

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Marlin Crawler, Inc.
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Just the opposite actually. Shorter pitman means you trade distance for force. Longer pitman means you trade force for distance. Think about an exaggeration: A 3' long pitman is not even going to budge the tires.......
Ummm...... A longer pitman arm will have more force due to it's longer leverage and also will cover a greater distance due to its increased radius.

If you take a 3' long pitman arm, then you could move the drag link 3' from the p/s box.

I think you are confusing distance with acceleration. A shorter arm will accelerate the rotation of the knuckle (steering) at a greater rate, but it will reduce the turning radius (distance) when not limited by the steering stops.
 

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Marlin Crawler, Inc.
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Ok, I see what you are saying.

If you leave the steering gear ratio of the box alone, then a 3' long pitman arm would require more revolutions to the steering box input in order to turn the pitman arm ±90°.

But when not limited, a 3' pitman arm would clearly be able to displace the drag link a much greater distance than a 1' pitman arm.
 

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Marlin Crawler, Inc.
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Say the steering box at the section shafts puts out 1000 in/lbs (total fictionious number) when you turn the wheel with your hand, then a 10" long pitman arms can push the drag link with (1000/10)= 100 lbs of force. But if the Pitman arm was 5" long, that would convert to (1000/5)= 200 lbs of force. Hence the shorter the pitman arm - the more force you can apply to the knuckle.

I think your confused Mike with the idea of a breaker bar - longer is better - since you applying a force to the lever, instead of converting the "torque/moment" into a force over distance vector. This is were the torque is constant and the length of the lever is the variable. Let me know if I'm wrong - but this is how I look at it.
You Sir are correct
I am thinking in reverse :D Maybe opposites day only applies to me :laughing:
 

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Sky's arm is 3/4" HIGHER then a OEM pitman arm. Hence the Tie Rod is 3/4" higher, which means you should have 3/4" more clearance between the tie rod end and the leaf spring.
My net gain was more than 3/4" because the stock pitman had the ball joint stud pointing down and through Skys custom drag link end. The stud stuck through the end and had a nut on it. When I installed the 3/4 drop arm I got from you Rick, the new ball joint points up and the threads are now out of harms way.

I think I gained over an inch when you consider the stud. That was all I needed to stop getting the dang pitman arm stuck on my leaf spring. That was really annoying and I'm so happy to have that fixed.

Chass
ct
 

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89+ trucks are 3rd gens... Not tacos.

Make sure you get the pitman arm for the power steering gearbox. The manual steering gearboxes have a smaller sector shaft and will not bolt onto the IFS steering box.
We just measured the sector off a third gen (92) with power and its diameter is smaller than the wheel drive's. has anyone done this or are we using the wrong year?

The box on the sami pic above has four bolts....is it a two wheel drive box?
 

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From what I've read the 2wd pitman, being shorter, does not provide the amount of throw required.
My 85 has a 2wd pitman arm I believe because my wheels dont turn nearly tight enough.

**edit** nevermind, mine has some kind of custom flat one on...ill take a pic in a few.
 
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