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Discussion Starter #21
Yep, a big part of this is the woman wanted a "jeep" to cruise around in with good weather. I've owned plenty but always had the intent to sell. I'm damn sure not going to buy a jeep to keep, hence a shitty $400 horunna.

Also cant own a 4x4-esque vehicle with all bark and no bite. But staying low key with doubler, lockers, and other shit that the general public wont appreciate keeps me happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Exactly. I cruise gravel and minimum maintenance roads. Nephew also has a 4Runner now so we do some light exploring
Theres a road I regularly travel from one ranch property to another. Its graded once a year with a river crossing. I want to he able to run 75mph to get out there. Full crawler doesnt make that a fun drive.

 

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Whole lotta "nuthin" out there at 75...
Bet it's nice 300yds off the to the side.
Sit, crack a frosty and chill
 

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Discussion Starter #26
ok, lets chat about some worthless tech.

Minus the CV axles that there's no aftermarket support for... the idler/steering seems to be the next weak point.

Ive already sourced a RHD gearbox that looks to be a direct bolt it. Toyota was smart and built the frame and mounts in mirror image for different markets.

Using the RHD box as an idler, could I run lines over to the RHD box and act like a halfass assist? Figured it would keep fresh fluid to the bearings in the box and might act as something besides dead weight. Ive seen dual power steering boxes on tractors (cement mixers) but never investigated.

would you:

1. Just "T" the power steering lines and run them over to the RHD box

2. Tap the driver box like hydro aisist and run them over to the factory PS line on the RHD box.

3. Tap drive box, run line over to tapped RHD box, block the factory lines on the RHD PS lines.

4. say fuck it and pull the worm gear from the RHD box and fill it full.

5. "insert opinion here" :flipoff2:
 

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ok, lets chat about some worthless tech.

Minus the CV axles that there's no aftermarket support for... the idler/steering seems to be the next weak point.

Ive already sourced a RHD gearbox that looks to be a direct bolt it. Toyota was smart and built the frame and mounts in mirror image for different markets.

Using the RHD box as an idler, could I run lines over to the RHD box and act like a halfass assist? Figured it would keep fresh fluid to the bearings in the box and might act as something besides dead weight. Ive seen dual power steering boxes on tractors (cement mixers) but never investigated.

would you:

1. Just "T" the power steering lines and run them over to the RHD box

2. Tap the driver box like hydro aisist and run them over to the factory PS line on the RHD box.

3. Tap drive box, run line over to tapped RHD box, block the factory lines on the RHD PS lines.

4. say fuck it and pull the worm gear from the RHD box and fill it full.

5. "insert opinion here" :flipoff2:
5 trophy Truck full hydro rack :flipoff2:

1 and 2 won't do shit

3 is somewhat interesting, might be worth messing with for shits and giggles.

4 is 99.9% what you'll end up doing anyway.

6 adapt a factory rack?
 

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Ahahaha
Just got a engine from my buddy doing a 3.4 swap. Gonna get her running and rip 31's for now.
OP, I like option 3 for no particular reason.
You didn't have to do all that first, very kind of you :flipoff2:

3.4 would be sweet in a 1st gen, my buddy got a t100 with a 3.4 for free, he said I could have the engine if I want. Now I just need to find a 3.blow 1st gen.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
5 trophy Truck full hydro rack :flipoff2:

1 and 2 won't do shit

3 is somewhat interesting, might be worth messing with for shits and giggles.

4 is 99.9% what you'll end up doing anyway.

6 adapt a factory rack?
OP, I like option 3 for no particular reason.
Not going to do a rack and peanut steering.

If I do option 3 for science, I'm thinking if the volume isnt equal then it may provide some resistance instead of assist?
 

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Not going to do a rack and peanut steering.

If I do option 3 for science, I'm thinking if the volume isnt equal then it may provide some resistance instead of assist?
I never liked racks untill I had 2 vehicles with them. Steers way better than a box.

Maybe you could put ball valves on the lines for testing? The main box should work fine with the lines blocked, basically like you never drilled and tapped it, no idea what that will do to the other box though.

It might be better for steering power, but worse for normal higher speed driving? Hard to say what it will do without trying it.

I know the box will not send any fluid to the drilled ports without any load. Ie: wheels off the ground and normal assist cyl unhooked, it will steer left to right without moving the cyl. I don't know what this means for the RHD box.
 

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Option 1 won't do anything unless you run a steering shaft to that box also.

Option 2 won't work.

Option 3 would be the way to go. You'd be using the ram in the box as your assist ram. You might have to block off the ports to the valve though.

Option 5, why not just fab up a heavy duty idler? I'm sure if search around and look on places like racedezert you'll find plenty of inspiration. I want to say someone like total chaos used to make one. Seems like it would be way easier to fab up a simple idler arm and then use a standard ram as ram assist off the frame to the center link. Just my $0.02.

Kevin
 

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Option 1 won't do anything unless you run a steering shaft to that box also.

Option 2 won't work.

Option 3 would be the way to go. You'd be using the ram in the box as your assist ram. You might have to block off the ports to the valve though.

Option 5, why not just fab up a heavy duty idler? I'm sure if search around and look on places like racedezert you'll find plenty of inspiration. I want to say someone like total chaos used to make one. Seems like it would be way easier to fab up a simple idler arm and then use a standard ram as ram assist off the frame to the center link. Just my $0.02.

Kevin
total chaos makes a nice one $$$ used to be there was idler arm braces that bolted to factory idler arm and quite frankly made them last through some tough wheeling. Not bullet proof but locked front and rear with a geared tcase on 33's there wasn't much that held me and my friends back in those days. When the idler arm would take a crap every two years or so we would bolt the brace on another and get back on the trail.
 

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it would be easiest to just put the RHD box there and leave it alone. do you even need to pull the gear out of it?

powering both seems like it would be a bitch to do, what with getting the slop to be the same and that you would be moving the spool valve from the wrong end, i.e. instead of turning the input shaft you'd be turning the output shaft.

i dunno, doesn't seem worthwhile to me.

better power steering pump would get you more assist out of the stock box more reliably.

if it becomes an issue, just put a couple short single ended rams right to the knuckles from the control arms with rod end eyes :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Well another member hooked me up with a R151F bell so I've effectively doubled the budget. Looks like the auto adapter works, so I'll try to bolt that up this weekend to verify. Idea behind that is when the 22RE dies, I can swap it out for an ecotec a lot easier. If I go ahead amd buy/prep an ecotec, then the 22re wont die.


4.88s all cleaned up and ready. Just need to find a 7.5 lockah.

Anyone have CAD plans for a FROR plate type mount? I want to tie it into the skid plate.
 

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I put a spartan in my 7.5, 2nd spartan I've owned. I actually really like them. They've been less noticeable than the full carrier Detroit I put in my 60 front.

I think the only other option is an ARB, I have one shelved for my 96 4runner, not for sale though :flipoff2:
 
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