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I'm going to agree with you on this one.
um loosening torque and tightening torque are not the same on impact's? The 800 ft-lbs is usually just in removing. Or that is my understanding.

So if you have a part that needs to be 400ft-lbs to install I would not rely on an electric impact gun.
 

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View attachment 2900398

This might be the dumbest thing I've ever heard...
I've tried torquing 5/8" bolt to torque spec. The electric units stall out before torque specs is reached, 250-ish ft-lbs. I can get them to spec by hand and the 1/2" guns will remove the nuts.

Also had some 3/4" bolts on Mog stuff that is installed to factory spec, somewhere's around 450+ ft-lbs and the 1/2" electric units won't budge them (removing).

So dumb or not that's been my experience.
 

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um loosening torque and tightening torque are not the same on impact's? The 800 ft-lbs is usually just in removing. Or that is my understanding.

So if you have a part that needs to be 400ft-lbs to install I would not rely on an electric impact gun.
It is hard to explain how powerful this electric now is. Read the specs, it’s no joke:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2767-20

I have a damn good snap-on impact, the same one every professional tech has had for years. My air compressor runs 190psi like every shop out there does. The Milwaukee electric will run circles around the snap-on air.

I haven’t touched my air impact since I got the Milwaukee. Hell, I haven’t even needed setting 4 (strongest setting) yet. The best part is, I don’t have to drag around an air hose and I can take it anywhere which is convenient if I’m out of town and have a flat on my truck or trailer.

Note: for reference, I work on 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks and vans all day long. Plus farm and ranch work on weekends.
 

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I wouldn’t trust any power tool for accurate torque numbers at all, but the Milwaukee fuel line impacts are amazing, or anything in the m18 line is with a 5ah, or larger battery.
 

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It is hard to explain how powerful this electric now is. Read the specs, it’s no joke:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2767-20

I have a damn good snap-on impact, the same one every professional tech has had for years. My air compressor runs 190psi like every shop out there does. The Milwaukee electric will run circles around the snap-on air.

I haven’t touched my air impact since I got the Milwaukee. Hell, I haven’t even needed setting 4 (strongest setting) yet. The best part is, I don’t have to drag around an air hose and I can take it anywhere which is convenient if I’m out of town and have a flat on my truck or trailer.

Note: for reference, I work on 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks and vans all day long. Plus farm and ranch work on weekends.
You're pretty full of shit eh? 190psi eh? Because 99% of shop compressors max out at 175psi. And you just don't bother using the high setting because it's that badass eh? Rriighhhtttt...
 

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You're pretty full of shit eh? 190psi eh? Because 99% of shop compressors max out at 175psi. And you just don't bother using the high setting because it's that badass eh? Rriighhhtttt...
When you own your own shop you can adjust the regulator where you want it. 180 to 190 is not that difficult, depending if the tank is completely full or not. Most shops run between 170 - 180 all day long. Mine’s a tad higher. I’m not sure why you are pissed about that.

I don’t use the high setting on the Milwaukee, because no, I don’t “need” it. I used it at first and it works great, but with the feature that it drops to 700 rpm after it detects the nut/bolt is loose and drops it, is annoying. So I leave it on setting 3 and all works well and more like an air impact. If I “need” extra power it’s a push of the button away.

I’m not sure why I’m explaining it to you. You seem to be dead set that I’m lying for some reason, so whatever. :flipoff2:
 

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When you own your own shop you can adjust the regulator where you want it. 180 to 190 is not that difficult, depending if the tank is completely full or not. Most shops run between 170 - 180 all day long. Mine’s a tad higher. I’m not sure why you are pissed about that.

I don’t use the high setting on the Milwaukee, because no, I don’t “need” it. I used it at first and it works great, but with the feature that it drops to 700 rpm after it detects the nut/bolt is loose and drops it, is annoying. So I leave it on setting 3 and all works well and more like an air impact. If I “need” extra power it’s a push of the button away.

I’m not sure why I’m explaining it to you. You seem to be dead set that I’m lying for some reason, so whatever. :flipoff2:
You can pretend to set your regulator to whatever you want, the pressure shutoff on almost any 2 stage shop grade air compressor (Quincy, Ingersoll Rand, etc) is 175psi and that is all the tank/pump are rated for. Please provide a link to your uber air compressor that does 190psi...the only one I've ever seen higher is some crappy Dewalt home owner grade ones.
 

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You can pretend to set your regulator to whatever you want, the pressure shutoff on almost any 2 stage shop grade air compressor (Quincy, Ingersoll Rand, etc) is 175psi and that is all the tank/pump are rated for. Please provide a link to your uber air compressor that does 190psi...the only one I've ever seen higher is some crappy Dewalt home owner grade ones.
It’s over 30 years old and you can’t hardly make out the labels anymore. Hell, I’m not even sure what brand it is. I just make sure the compressor oil is full and that’s about it. When it goes, I’ll be like you normal folks, I guess. Wait. No I won’t. I’ll use Milwaukee tools to do the hard work and air for airing up tires.
 

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You won’t trust Milwaukee but you’ll trust harbor freight? There are lots of videos on the 1,400 ft oh Milwaukee nut busting torque.

I'm not dissing the tools as they are amazing. I just don't fully trust them yet. And wary of the marketing smoke (from anyone).

As shown here these tools are pretty crazy. 500+ ft-lbs from a Harbor Freight jobber.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkPzjV-ZaTU


Good vid on the difference between tightening and loosening torque:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zuqSrD6F8I
 

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um loosening torque and tightening torque are not the same on impact's? The 800 ft-lbs is usually just in removing. Or that is my understanding.

So if you have a part that needs to be 400ft-lbs to install I would not rely on an electric impact gun.
Both air and electric have less torque when tightening. There's not a 1/2" air gun out there that comes close to the torque of the new electric guns. Electric is about 1400ft-lbs removing and 1000ft-lbs tightening. Most quality air guns are 1000 and 750. Not even close to the power of an electric gun.
 

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Both air and electric have less torque when tightening. There's not a 1/2" air gun out there that comes close to the torque of the new electric guns. Electric is about 1400ft-lbs removing and 1000ft-lbs tightening. Most quality air guns are 1000 and 750. Not even close to the power of an electric gun.
I kinda did a at home test of this when I got my Milwalkee 1/2" gun....ran a 3/4" bolt/nut down with the timax 1/2" and didn't think the electric would remove it.... and it did easily...Im impressed by its power for sure. Though Ill admit it was on full blitzkrieg setting 4....and Im still here to tell the tale!:grinpimp:
 

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I kinda did a at home test of this when I got my Milwalkee 1/2" gun....ran a 3/4" bolt/nut down with the timax 1/2" and didn't think the electric would remove it.... and it did easily...Im impressed by its power for sure. Though Ill admit it was on full blitzkrieg setting 4....and Im still here to tell the tale!:grinpimp:
I've fooled around like this before too and find that I usually end up deforming things long before I hit an actual high torque value. Using 5/8" grade 5 bolts I can't even get close to maxing out my 250ft-lbs torque wrench (e.g. set to 200ft-lbs it just starts to deform things). So at most your gun might be loosening a few hundred ft-lbs which is nothing to it.

The higher torque is useful when big suspension/chassis components have been assembled and left to rust for 10 years...pretty hard to replicate this to "test out" the various guns.

I think the biggest advantage of the cordless impacts these days is more around consistency in the setup. You plug a charged battery in and you get full performance every single time. With an air setup you need to make sure your compressor, piping, hoses, regulators, fittings, etc. are setup right to get full torque AND the gun degrades overtime if it's not kept serviced properly (not just lubing but the occasional greasing as well and rebuild kits after so much usage). I would imagine if we could measure every single IR TiMax gun out there on the various setups people have we'd see ranges of actual torque capabilities upwards of 500ft-lbs less than rated torque.
 

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I've tried torquing 5/8" bolt to torque spec. The electric units stall out before torque specs is reached, 250-ish ft-lbs. I can get them to spec by hand and the 1/2" guns will remove the nuts.

Also had some 3/4" bolts on Mog stuff that is installed to factory spec, somewhere's around 450+ ft-lbs and the 1/2" electric units won't budge them (removing).

So dumb or not that's been my experience.

The old 120v units? They're pussy compared to the battery stuff.

I rattled out a Honda crank bolt with mine, and people bitch all the time about not being able to get them with air.


But hey, be a dick about it while we're getting shit done and never tripping over an air line.

The only reason to buy an air compressor for me is paint and blowing shit off. Zero tools really need to be air powered in most shops now.
 

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The one Milwaukee Fuel 1/2" I got, which is the "best" one according to the other thread on here, isn't very good.

It won't even touch truck lug nuts, we still need the 1" air impact. I mostly bougt it for that too, figured could fix in the woods without dragging out the service truck.

Hell the other day it wouldn't take off 3 or 4 of my pickup lug nuts that the 1/2" air gun spun off with barely an ugga dugga.

It's supposed to be like 1400 ft/lbs? Yeah... no way in hell!
 

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The old 120v units? They're pussy compared to the battery stuff.

I rattled out a Honda crank bolt with mine, and people bitch all the time about not being able to get them with air.


But hey, be a dick about it while we're getting shit done and never tripping over an air line.

The only reason to buy an air compressor for me is paint and blowing shit off. Zero tools really need to be air powered in most shops now.
Let me think about that...

3/4" impacts (ya Milwaukee has one coming but it's just a different anvil on the same gun)
1" impacts
Air hammers
Die grinders (I wouldn't consider these fully replaced yet)
Needle scalers
Painting
Airing up/Blowing Off
Body Sanders
Nail guns (I wouldn't consider these fully replaced yet)
Anything that needs tight clearances, cordless tools are still bulky

It's come a long way, but air is still non-optional.
 
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