[sixfoot]

i know some have done this my question is what lift did you use in the rear? i have 2.5 ome lift now. what would i need to change or not change?

thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

 

[elf_cruiser]

honestly, i would go SOA all-around. But, if you wanna SUA rear, you will ned about 6" of lift to match the front. This is assuming that u use stock front springs. I would suggest a set from Alcan, as i have heard good things about them. In order to balance the suspension, you will want to stiffen the front springs, and order softer rear ones, as the front springs are a lot closer together.

Good Luck!!

 

[Erik D_lux]

I have seen this work really well and have thought if I could go back I would try it out. What I have seen is that it makes the front very soft and the rear really stiff. The reason that I like that setup is the only problem I have had with climbing is that I start getting the bounce when just a little traction is lost. I added an add a leaf in the rear and that more of less solved that problem. I like soft front to drop on steep inclines and the rear to be stiff so no bouncing. "just my opionion I could be wrong"

 

[wngrog]

Eric,
Do you run 9000's in the rear? I just crank mine to 5 on the trail and it pretty much eliminates any bounce on steep hills.


It bouces like hell when the shocks are on 3.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Eric,
Do you run 9000's in the rear? I just crank mine to 5 on the trail and it pretty much eliminates any bounce on steep hills.


It bouces like hell when the shocks are on 3.

I used to run 9000's in the rear, but now I just run some crap ass pro comps and an add a leaf in the rear and seems fine. I think my setup was wierd, because 3 was a little too soft and I got the bounce but if I used 4 or 5 it hurt my stomach!

 

[Land Crusher]

I am going to do this.

I have a spring reversal in the front that
nets about 2 in lift plus I will add longer
shackels in the front.
in the rear I an not shure but am leaning torwards
wagoneer springs.

 

[71-Cruiser]

Im digging up an old thread because i am contemlating doing the same thing. I have 5" Alcans and due to several factors i ended up pulling the front end out I was going to flip the fronts for some more wheen base but due to the arch of the springs It would rotate the axle back about 15* so my thinking was....

spring over the front with sotck springs and leave the rear SUA. Should i add a leaf to the front packs to even it out or will the stock fronts be fairly close to the SUA rears?

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

In my book makes no sense to go SUA in the rear only mostly because it's so easy to do in the rear. If you have the parts/don't need a rear driveshaft a couple hours at most. I would just stiffen your springs if you want a stiff rear axle, just my $.02

 

[71-Cruiser]

The truck is already 5" Alcan SUA in the rear and if I went spring over in the rear I would have to build a track bar which would just add one more pre-GSMTR project.

 

[Gunmetalcruz]

Suck the fornt down with your winch like the comp rigs. Soft front and rear springs whatever 9000 setting and no bounce because the front suspension can't unload.

 

[coolcruiserfj40]

ive got spring under in front over in back flexes nicely and rides not to bad im proubly going to spring the front over though

 

[Tfab]

Just go S.O.A. front and rear. Lets not make covered wagon suspension more complicated than it needs to be.

 

[Flatty]

I think that going SOA in the front and SUA in the rear is a waste. Doing the front is all the hard work. You can build a traction bar for the rear VERY easily. It can be done in about 2-3 hours. Don't try to reinvent the wheel.

Dima

 

[fj40_rico]

why won't you want to do the rear too. The SOA in the rear is the easiest of the two.

- Rico.